Snowman

I will start it off so show what's expected: I have a Cobb Accessport, a Willall Y Pipe and some Siebon Carbon Parts for sale. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/R3...ts-t335407.html

Hi all, I've had a few PM's from people wanting to sell private R35 parts directly in this forum as R35 people tend to only look in here. But unfortunately that is against the forum rules. So as a comprimise I have made this thread up so people can make a propper thread in the For Sale Section of the forums and then place a quick discription and link to the full thread in here. This isn't to be used as your forsale thread though so only links to a propper thread will be allowed. Cheers Snowy.

Hi all, I have some parts left over from owning the R35 which I have no use for anymore. So I am here to offer them off cheap cheap. Firstly I have a COBB Accessport - SOLD Willall SS Y Pipe - SOLD Then I have lots of Seibon Carnon CF parts. Hood Ducts - $400 OEM Style Front lip - $1,000 OEM Style Rear lip - $1,000 CF Grill Inserts OEM Style Rear Wing - $,1500 OEM Style Side Skirts - $1,500 I will sell all of the CF parts as a single package for $5,0000. The Side Skirts and Rear Lip are brand new and still in their boxes. The other parts were on the car for 1 week only before I sold it. Parts are all in Melb. PM me for interest.

I've got a massive list of replacement external CF parts for an R35 if anyone is keen. I purchased them all and then sold the car before I got to put them all on. They are the Seibon OEM replacement style (so exactly the same shape as OEM just in CF). I've got a Front Lip, Rear Wing, Hood Ducts, Side Skirts, Lower Rear Bar and side grills. Will sell them cheap cheap to anyone interested. I've also got a Cobb, AP J Hook Rotors and a Willall Y Pipe as well. PM me if you are interested.

and now we know why I secretly sawed my upper control arm in half at lunch on Day 1 so I had a good excuse to quit the rally

I did say "I" plugged it in It took all of 2s to do. The new car will have it hard-wired in with a dash switch to make it a 1s job instead.!

That's where the VBOX is great. It starts recording when you start moving and stops recording when you stop. Every movement is saved as a new file. A slight PITA for Targa stuff as you don't want to record 100km transport stages - but I always just plugged it in when we got to TC and then un-plugged it at the stop point (so you would get a number of small 3s vids from your creeping up to the start and then one full vid of your run). But it makes capturing the various stage times easy and means you need to do bugger all post event editting (not to mention the awesomeness of the data overlay). 1 x 8GB card easily lasts a whole days worth of rallying.

Fuel pumps are now free - but I still run the stock one.

Yeah I found the little LED shift lights things a god send for rally work. I don't even look at it but I can still "see" when it turns red so I know to shift up. I also like this style as opposed to the single light as I also have a lower setting for the blue ones so that when the car is under 3,500pm (aka off boost) no lights are on - so I know to shift down! I actually prefer the blue/red combo to the green/yellow/red combo for this reason. I just want to try and see blue lights constantly.

I had massive Caterham flash-backs! LOL That was the same corner (and same outcome) as I had on my visit there!

Sad days. I said good-bye to my 5 speed today. I was going to keep it as a momento but the funds help with the new toy.

I didn't really notice it HEAPS until the first time I tried to run with a HANS type device. Then the 2 devices wanted to fight each other for which position my head needed to be in as the HANS wanted my head straight and the cage didn't agree. Consequently I only ran the HANS for one stage and took it off. But I want to start using one full time going forwards. But even without the HANS I still got annoyed from time to time with it. The Nav's I've had that have been far too tall for their own good tended to get REALLY annoyed with it to the point where they all took the coushins out of the seats just to try and get under the bar! My new Nav suffers from Too Tall Syndrome as well so I'm sure he will be happy for the difference.

My only advice is to try and find a car like yours with a cage and a full interior and sit in it with a helmet on. My old race car I had the same intensions and was adamant that I wanted to keep all of my interior trim for lots of different nice reasons. The one thing I didn't take into account was the impact this would have on the cage design and as such anyone sitting in either the drivers or passengers chair with a helmet on was pretty much in constant contact with the cage. You could never quite get your head dead straight and you had to deal with constant "banging" on your helemt when racing. One of the single main reasons I wanted to build a new car rather than repair the old car after my little incident was so I could rectify that situation and build a new car without the head banging issues! So yeah my old car was an exceptionally nice car with a cage. The new car is a "coke can" as you say and I wouldn't go back the other way again. (Mind you I haven't had to live in the coke can yet so maybe I'll change my mind back again after the noise and rattles drive me insane! LOL)

I got mine through Import Monster - http://www.importmonster.com.au/ Give Aaron a call and have a chat.

Rod Salmon says the same thing. Before his now infamous crash he told me his Showroom spec X was a full 1s / lap faster than his previous M2 Modern EVO 9 at Broadford - which is just a little track. But he has gone on to prove it's worth at the Bathurst 12hr for a number of years now.

I can only guess its because they already had one. That EMO has been around for years - Steve used to race it in the Dutton series and all of the W.A. speed series stuff.

Here's the brouchure. http://www.lfperformance.com.au/wp-content...%20Brochure.pdf LFP Lightweight 18 x 9 wheels look a HELL of a lot like Advans to me! LOL

I concur. I think factory specials are ok but workshop specials are going a bit far. But where then do you draw the line with things like the Skelta's / Daytona's etc. It's all too hard - but the big boys with the cash are sure going to exploit it whilst they can I guess. Perhaps TQ will see if there is some way to homolagate his RSR.

I heard on the grape vine today that a Western Australian father of a former Joker is planning on building a number of homologated super EMO's with stroked engines, carbon fibre everything and sequential gearboxes to run at Targa 2011 with his #1 driver moving from the R35 to the new car. Apparently you can have one for a cool $250K (or less if you provide your own "donar" car). I really need to get onto this Racepace GT-R concept before this window gets closed!

So I took Newtons EMO 4 for a spin up at DECA on the weekend. Easiest car to drive fast I've ever driven - by a long way. Quite scary really. I've driven lots of EMO's over the years but that was the first one thats made me think twice. The challenge now will be to make my new toy as close to being that good as possible. But it was a real eye opener into how good a pretty basic, low powered car can be. But it was a good lesson in that an easy car to drive fast is better than a fast car. It's just easier to build a fast car than it is the other way around!

Ok - I'm going to close this before someone posts something that shouldn't

If its wet I'm using the Touareg!

The electrical feedback noise in the Terraphone intercoms is pretty bad. Not sure if the Stilo do the same when running on 12V or do most people run them on 9V to avoid that?

Costs depend on the event and if you are a first time buyer or a repeat buyer. But for example - here is the price list of the "Official" Octogon / Targa notes supplier - http://rallynotes.com.au/course_notes/ew/6/1386/1/271.pdf Others can be had for cheaper (Vandenbergs) - but there is less data in their notes. So its a personal preference thing.

There are no right or wrong way to do pace notes. I have personally used 1-6 and 1-10 notes in my short stint just to see what I prefer. I know a guy who uses 1-3 notes! It's what ever you are comfortable with. And then on top of the "corner" and "distance" notes you can add other things as well. Some people put braking or turning markers into their notes as well as the standard Care, Caution, Danger markers. It's obviously easier to start off simple and build the amount of data you want called as you - and your nav - gain experience. For example I'm at a point now where I will add extra caution style notes - but I don't yet add any go faster type notes (aka changing a basic call of 5R to a Flat Out 5R if you think it should be taken full throttle) But for example in Targa Rookie I just purchased a set of those Vandenberg 1-6 Notes and for the most part drove soley with those un-altered. And I personally think for anyone starting out buying a set of pre-done notes - which can be purchased for pretty much all of the major events - is the easiest way to learn the ropes. There are several options available to you in both 1-6 and 1-10 notes. Also - when I first started out I was using the Blue Ant bluetooth intercom headsets. They worked a treat and stick onto any helmet - you just needed to remember to charge them every night and turn them off between stages. http://www.mmsport.com.au/products/1222/Interphone-Motorbike