crooser

hi all i get this strange "choking/fluttering" feeling between approx 4500 and 6000rpm with my rb25det. under and over this range the car feels strong as normal. at 6000, it comes good again with a noticable increase in power. First i thought it might just be the factory boost solenoid doing its thing because of the change at 6000 but now thats been disconnected - no change. happens at standard and slightly raised (9psi) boost. same deal. only mods are 3" cat back exhaust. standard ecu/afm etc i recently changed plugs to NGK PFR6A-11 ones re-gapped to 0.70mm could this be my problem, too small a gap? help!

lol... you guys are giving me acid flashbacks... Dragon's Lair - i cant bring myself to throw it out! Stunts... what a blast that was. making loop-de-loop tracks lol GPL and Rallymasters were great!

lol... why do i find that so funny?

could be the original seatbelt warning setup

IMHO dont expect a big increase in power... might sound a bit different though. even a gutted cat has shown no improvement for some. of coarse, its illegal to gut your cat

put http://www.central20.co.jp/ through an online translator might help you some

i spoke to suncorp about 2 weeks ago and the guy told me no more under 25yrs for imports any more. bummer for the younger folk

The cams from a series 1 r33 rb25de are the same as the series 1 rb25det ones. The difference ppl talk of might be to do with the rb20de and rb20det cams hope this helps

i have these on my car

i'd give my let nut (well, maybe not) for cruise control. I imagine they just "freeze" the signal from the TPS to hold constant speed?

if you dont have an aftermarket ecu or a way to control fuel/ignition at given points, what could you actually do to the car on the dyno to "tune" it? (apart from altering base timing) also, i've seen cars get higher readings by doing multiple power runs (like 3 in 5 mins) with nothing being touched by the mechanic. this normal? are there really cobwebs in there?

you have to drop the front half of the tailshaft to get the gearbox out. there's no need to move the engine as far as i can see.

lol thats one pi55ed off dude hope he dont get fried by the courts... although it sounds like hes been shafted bad

what about this one... might spend all your time being pulled over though http://ppq.com.au/cap/cap_wizard_p5.asp?ca...alphanum=coph8r

4WD 32 is available too... until the first person with an R32 GTR reads this that is! http://ppq.com.au/cap/cap_wizard_p5.asp?ca...&alphanum=4WD32

FYI If youve ever missed out on getting the personalised plates you wanted... try again with the special edition 3letter+3number aussie flag plate... instead of the usual 3letter+2number deal. i guess they'll go fast the "real aussies drive utes" plates would be good as they are 3letter+3numbers also and are in black. wonder how illegal it is to paint over the lame ute quote. anyone know? http://ppq.com.au/cap/cap_wizard_p1.asp?category=6

Skylines are well known bird-magnets Check for nests. Set traps if you have to. Failing that, might be the clutch throw-out bearing.

great job on the polish man.... looks totally horn lol @ gilty i'm hearin' ya dude! :lol:

cool thanks for the pics thats the same as the r33 non turbo one. the 25det box uses a different mounting setup i've butchered your original pic to give you an idea we hunted for one to suit but ended making an L bracket and retaining the 33 non turbo cylinder cheers

i'm currently trying Repsol Elite Competicion - fully synthetic - seems good - worth a look

Just curious if the slave cylinder you have has 2 mounting bolt holes and if these are vertical or horizontal cheers

Since swapping a 25det gearbox into my car (originally N/A) the speedo reads exactly ½ real speed. (30kmh = a real 60kmh) The original non turbo gearbox speed sensor is much too small just to swap so i have no choice but to use the turbo box sensor. Does anyone know if its possible to make adjustments to the speedo itself to correct this? Like some sort of calibration screw or something? now the doors lock at 60kmh (30 on dash) and the odometer kms now tick over at ½ the rate which i guess aint a bad thing its probably raised the hicas kick in point to 160kmh also... not sure any help would be appreciated

that big cap just screws off bringing the plate behind with it. (i was supplied a big plastic spanner tool with my wheels) underneath the plate you will have access to your 5 studs

His car is an Auto probably held in 2nd maybe??

most dyno power runs are taken to redline or close to it. doing a run in 3rd will read higher than in 4th. my guess is 3rd gear is chosen by some tuners for safety reasons.