crooser

(1) sounds like the screw doovylacka that you use to put the ecu into diagnostic mode. theres plenty of info on how to do it. have a search through old posts you'll find plenty

Going through the shifter hole aint a bad idea but there is 1 tricky brass circlip you must defeat first. To remove the gearshift, undo the 2 screws behind the ashtray... unscrew the gear knob off... lift out the centre surround (its clipped in, give it a little tug upwards from the end pointing towards the handbrake)... remove the next rubber cover (4 screws)... turn the next rubber boot upwards and inside-out to get it out the way... now you can see the top of the shifter and 2 circlips inside... the silver looking one can stay there... the brassy looking one needs to come out (unfortunately it doesnt have any eyelets to use a proper circlip tool on it) if you get this clip out, the whole lot just lifts straight out... make sure you left it in neutral to make it easy going back in... now you can use a funnel or even a squeezy water bottle to add the CORRECT amount of oil. dont spill gear oil inside the car whatever you do! put it all back together the same way Now the real fun part... getting that circlip back on! get an extra pair of hands to help work this puppy back in! hope i havent forgotten anything

use 3.6L for the 25det 5 spd manual box

this is an old dyno sheet from my r33 gts - standard ecu car was really choking up top due to the restrictive (and quiet) rear muffler

if you are supplying the oil, a decent workshop should only charge you 20-30 dollars. save a lot of hassle

Put the extra 750ml of VMX80 in this morning. now its quite a bit more smoother. phew

I think i'm gonna put another 0.8 - 1.0L to take it up to 3.6L and hopefully see an improvement. i'll let you know either way.

how much ronin?

we put another box in my 33 last weekend. my mate's 33 owners manual said 2.8l so we just added that amount which we filled from inside the car with the shifter out. To me there is something just not right about the feel of it all. Reading thru old posts it seems if you fill it the conventional way (till it starts coming out of the side bung) you will use approx 3.6l the 2.8l figure might be a leftover from the r32 turbo manual?

Not sure of the correct way but i just filled the radiator - then with the car idleing, unscrew the bleeder right out. it will bubble and carry on for a couple of mins. keep topping up the the radiator in the process. carefull if the car is hot because the bleeder tends to spit a bit. hope this helps some

can anyone confirm how many litres for a 33 gtst box? cheers

i put platinums in my 33 and racked up over 100,000kms on the one set. i just recently bought some copper ones thinking it would only make the car run better (being new plugs) ...no change. The platinums i pulled out still look great. I'm half tempted to put the old ones back in and aim for 200k I'll be going back to platinums... even if its only for the extra lifespan.

Dont forget to bleed out any air when filling it back up. Its the little screw just in front of the plenum. Its important to do this as quite a bit of air can be trapped in there.

i put those narva "arctic blue" bulbs in my 33 about 2 yrs ago and they are getting duller all the time. Whats the best ones to get to replace these? The bluer the better. cheers

i thought the second one was outside ambient temp. i think the sensor is somewhere near the bottom of the radiator support? might be getting heatsoaked. was the car hot when you were checking it?

cool - how much?

well done dude!

This will be pressure from the big car companies with which grey/low volume imports compete against. These guys have huge accounts and i'm sure they can throw their weight around quite easily. There has been talk of this sort of thing happening for a while.

unscrew the lid off it and look to be certain. no stickers doesnt always mean its standard.

we did it ourselves

at the end of the day, approx $3700 i think. It will really depend on what you can get the motor/box for. heres a pic of both engines and boxes

because the gearboxes between NA and Turbo are different... hence a lot more little things need changing. If the NA gearbox could be retained (i dont know how long it would/could last) theoretically, you could just unbolt the engine from the gearbox, unplug all the wiring and accessories and undo the engine mounts and lift the engine out. replace it with det engine (using your old NA engine mounts) swap the ecu and fuel pump with ones from a 25det. rig up the intercooler and drive away... i suggest you try and find out if keeping the r33 NA gearbox isnt a crazy idea first - could save a lot of money and extra work. I was lucky to have DamqikGTST who lives only a few doors down offer his help (wouldnt have attempted it without him). It wouldnt take long to do in a workshop with a hoist etc

Hi We just this last weekend swapped the converted engine out for a 25det. Big thanks to DamqikGTST and Bigfella for the huge effort We swapped the gearbox also (they are very different) $3k i payed for the lot. noone really knows how strong the NA boxes are for sure. some say they are the same as the 20det box which dont have any problems with decent power. your wiring loom can stay as its identical. you will need a 25det ecu though. this is a much cheaper option than trying to turbo your existing motor. it was only viable for me coz i sourced the parts cheap and already had a controllable ecu. my car now running standard ecu/boost is pulling smoother/harder than my conversion did. things we HAD to change: front half of tailshaft (the end that goes into the det gearbox is much heftier than the na one) the speed sensor between the two gearboxes are different. (still havent fixed this yet the clutch slave cylinder is different (need the det one or make up a custom bracket like old Bob did for us ) All of these above problems would be avoided if you retained the NA gearbox plus... you have to keep the original NA engine mounts (discovered this the hard way) we swapped the fuel pump also as they are different and not worth taking a chance on. ask any questions now if you want while its still fresh in the head. i would recommend this over a conversion now given the end results and relatively cheap too. dont worry about the brakes they are fine unless you plan on takin it to the track often. cheers

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i think the 25de has good low down torque due to the higher compression... an added turbo compliments it quite well i think.