Moodles2

I agree Ebay special, STAY AWAY. I can guarantee it will be a laggy piece of shit. The answer is: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/103095-rb20-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/ Get a RB25 stock turbo (maybe ones that already highflowed) and hiflow it (check hypergear). It will be superior (response and power) to that chinese piece of shit you linked.

Getting the balancer and it's bolt off is where someone inexperienced with doing a timing belt on a RB is going to get stuck and consume most of the time.

Make sure both ends of the coilopack ignitor are firmly in place, and make sure it's earth wire has a clean earth.

Kudos on this board had a big clearout of Nismo parts acouple months ago, I picked up that kit locally what it would have cost me to import through the cheapest site (RHDJapan). I think I saw the same kit on Unique Autosports website for under $2k, dunno if it's been sold (saw it months ago)

Headgasket maybe?

Check trans fluid level, depending on the batch of shockproof, it's been known to climb out of the breathers

Tuning knock via the PFC readout... who needs proper knock reading equipment anyway...

I think noise with any piston whether cast or forged is the silicon content, low silicon content will tend to expand more when getting warm vs higher silicon content.

What kind of injectors, stock rb20det's, gtr ones etc

Look at the AFM (cleaning and redoing the solder joints) and the AAC (cleaning it out), maybe upping the base idle to 800rpm as I think only NEOs are supposed to idle at 600rpm

Why increase the boost or duty cycle? it's set to 12psi whether you go downhill, uphill or down a flat road.

Need to put load on the engine to set the pressure right (duty cycle), 1st and 2nd are completely unsuitable. On a dyno, 4th gear would be used, on a flat road 3rd gear minimum, or better yet to put load on an engine 3rd gear uphill. Once duty cycle is set to the desired pressure, start to turn gain up by say +5 each time until it starts to spike past your desired boost level, then either back the gain off slightly or back off the duty cycle slightly. It's completely trial and error. If you set say 12psi on a hot summer day, expect the pressure to get to 13-15psi on a freezing cold night. I live near long deserted country roads with no speed limits so finding a flat straight road is no problem when I tune my Gizzmo MS-IBC. If I had a dyno I could probably tune a Gizzmo EBC in about 15 minutes, so maybe look at getting it dialed in at a workshop with a dyno. Much cheaper than loosing your license over.

Start with 0 and work your way up, if you use someone else's setting you might put 20psi through that stock turbo.

Maybe you're hearing the AC fan kick in, not the compressor? the AC fan will kick in automatically when the coolant temp goes over 95C. Naturally you won't even realise coolant temp is 100C as the coolant temp gauge doesn't really go near the red till about 120C

As I understand multiplate clutches, a triple plate will put less shock loading (stress) on the drivetrain than a twin plate

The problem with recommending a 10w60 where the manufacturer recommends a 7.5w30 is the problem I have with Edge 10w60 (the fact there have been so few engine failures reported is a good sign with this oil). It's a known fact an unopened RB motor will fill the head with oil due to head design (oil restrictors too big, higher flowing pump etc), the problem is getting the oil to drain back to the sump via the factory 8mm drains. The thicker w60 hot rating will naturally take longer to drain than a w40 oil which is generally recommended. Edge may have some super properties or whatever, the point is it's going to get trapped in the head and have a hard time draining back to the sump in time, while the engine will be lubricated by nothing aka oil starvation. This shouldn't be a problem daily driving, but it will be a problem at the track or hard driving (high load/high rpm). The solution is smaller oil restrictors, enlarged oil drains (9mm to 10mm) etc So in short, someone might read this thread with an unopened engine and think "oh edge 10w60 is recommended by this dude, sounds like the perfect oil to hit the track with" then come home with a blown engine.

Hitting the limiter (ignition cut) is what hammers the oil pump drive on the crankshaft into the oil pump, setting a high rev limit (or better yet avoiding the 8000rpm limiter altogher) or a soft limit via a tune where the power dies off after 7000rpm

ECU shares speed info from the ABS system, the speed sensors on each corner

Coilpack ignitor or CAS, when playing up will work perfectly fine when cold but can cause misfires when they heat up

Personally I think it's a combination at least 2 or 3 things, BOV being one of them

First time I've heard of these coilpacks, and I've heard of them all (JJR, super spark, yellow jackets, OEM, splitfire, okada project plasma etc). Which brand and what model spark plugs were used (NGK copper, NGK iridium etc) and the exact model number of them (gap and heat range too). If they are copper spark plugs then they are in all likelyhood due to be changed depending how far have you travelled in those 7 months? Change the spark plug gap to 0.8mm and see if that helps and take a picture of them all while they're out, so we can see what kinda shape they're in. If it doesn't solve the misfire, then put new plugs in. If that still doesn't solve it then unplug individual coilpacks to work out which cylinder is the one misfiring and put a known working one in it's place, if the misfire is gone then replace that faulty coilpack (should be under warranty)

BOVs and wastegates are 2 different things, the BOV is the problem, not the wastegate. Blow off valve releases air either to the atmosphere (which your HKS unit does) or recirculate back into the start of the intake piping (factory BOV does, which the factory ECU expects). HKS SSQV can be made plumb back though via: http://www.nengun.com/hks/ssqv-option-parts . But in terms of plumb-backed BOVs, the GTR bov is the superior choice as it holds lots of boost (even the factory BOV for your model will be fine) and leaks air (by design) while idling which I'm not sure the HKS SSQV will do in plumb-back mode. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Blowoff_valve I'll quote the line which affects you: "In the case where a mass airflow sensor (MAF) is used and is located upstream from the blowoff valve, the engine control unit (ECU) will meter out excess fuel because the atmospherically vented air is not subtracted from the intake charge measurements. The engine then briefly operates with a fuel-rich mixture after each valve actuation." Wastegates are either internal to the turbo (stock turbo is internally gated) or external (attached to the exhaust manifold usually): http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wastegate

Someone change the thread title to "No Boost, Checked Absolutely Nothing. R33 GTR". Otherwise the current thread title is misleading

If the previous owner put a HKS atmo bov on, then he is an idiot. And god knows what else has been done to that car. Checklist of things that can make car run rich (on an untuned factory ECU): Atmo BOV (sell the HKS thing), and replace with either a stock BOV or a stock GTR BOV. Bigger AFM such as a Z32. (needs to be tuned for) Malfunctioning/dirty AFM, might get away with cleaning it (with contact cleaner or proper AFM cleaner) to get it working right again. Ebay special performance chip. (god knows what the 'tune' consists of) Bigger/highflowed injectors (that or they're clogged to shit and need cleaning. again bigger injectors is something that needs to be tuned for). Wrong or non-working oxygen sensor. Aftermarket adjustable fuel pressure regulator set to the completely wrong pressure. Base timing is wrong (timing belt skipped a tooth or teeth). Broken/malfunctioning coolant temp sensor (car will be stuck in cold start enrichment and drink fuel) Massive boost leak, metered air is escaping out the cooler piping before it gets to the engine (joiner blown off, common on the ones near/on the intercooler). Though it would hunt badly while idling Wrong spark plugs (wrong heat range can cause the plugs to foul up, fouled up spark plugs don't work well) There are probably more things I haven't thought of.

Timing set to 15 degrees... did you read this via CONSULT?