Moodles2

Pulling the ATTESSA fuse trick is fatal in 33's, whatever you do don't do it. the 33gtrs you've seen most likely run an E-TS (electronic torque split) controller (HKS Kansai $650ish, Ruzic Engineering $470, GRID, FIELD etc.). I wouldn't recommend linelockers as it would put a stress on the ATTESSA system when it tries to put the power to the front with the rears spinning.

First things first, if you are using the factory oil pressure gauge, it might be worth unplugging it at the sender (it's near the oil filter) and giving it a good clean, they are known to give incorrect readings when dirty.

Since it's had significant mods done to it, I'm guessing it has aftermarket bigger injectors.. genuine GTR injectors (from the R32 GTR at least) are black and yellow. I would check if you have indeed have aftermarket injectors, look into getting an aftermarket computer like say the PFC or the cheaper Nistune option (you will need to research it, as I believe you need a R32 GTR ecu to run the Nistune setup as I haven't heard of anyone using running Nistune on a 33 GTR ecu) where you can set the correct injector size.

I've used greenline.jp recently to bring a set of injectors in from japan and didnt have any import tax issues.

Try running a catch can, it's possible you are losing that oil by blowby, at least if the catch can is catching lots of oil you will know where its going at least. 60w is too thick, i would only go that weight in a commodore with 200,000km+, 10w-40 is more skyline friendly

Looks like great weather for a track day Sunday: http://www.weatherzone.com.au/sa/north-agricultural/mallala Hopefully the same for skydiving as well, though I'll be there next open day, pretty much close to my Level 2 cams license

Have the service logbooks leading up to 58,xxx where I took ownership of it

Old motor, from 01/1994 with 62,xxx on the odo. If the cat has collapsed, if I hit the underneath with a pipe, will I hear loose bits and pieces shaking about, or will I need to take the cat out and inspect it? I've tried Spraying WD40 liberally around the tb and plenum when idling but nothing, going to get some aerostart/brake cleaner and try again. Boostworx found the leak and were sure it was the intake manifold gasket advising me to run on low boost until the plenum it out and the gasket changed (since it's my daily I needed it, and decided to book it in later once ive sourced some metal gaskets)

cat is new from justjap, it was installed with the front pipe at the same time, before that dyno sheet was taken car runs good at the moment, idles pretty smoothly at around 1100rpm

Car was booked in for tune at the time, plus I insisted on going metal gaskets instead of genuine nissan paper types, I've been putting off doing it (since it's a 4.5-5hr job for a trained mechanic) because the mechanic who did the 2nd opinion for me couldn't find the leak. So I'm alittle confused

Depends on the state, some states require the pod to be completely shielded, whereas here in SA all you have to do is make sure the pod is secured with a bracket.

Kudos on here sells cheap 100k kits

My R32 GTR is pretty much stock except for: Nismo front pipe, catco ceramic highflow cat, apexi n1 catback, K&N panel filter, adj. cam gears (set for more midrange torque), Gizzmo MS-IBC Compression results (psi, starting from cyl #1 to #6): 175,175,165,175,175,175 I would have expected about 220-250kw at the rears with these mods, but only getting 199kw at the rears with 14.7psi. Boostworx said they found a leak at the inlet manifold gasket and it explains the low power, but I've been unable to find the leak myself and a mechanic who works on Skylines couldn't find the leak either. If the timing belt has skipped a tooth, can this also explain why I'm down on power? Another thing I thought of is K&N panel filter oiled nature, I brought it new and have never oiled it since it comes out of the packaging already oiled, could there be oil on my AFM causing the loss of power? Any ideas I haven't thought of? Forgot I'm running Nistune, with a fairly safe tune.

Search for "aircon diagnostic", it might help you diagnose the climate control at least (hold down the Off button for 10 seconds within 5 seconds of turning the ign on)

Taking the plenum off and backon is a 4-5hr job by itself and assuming its done by someone who has done it before, it's a very frustrating thing to do.

Pretty sure the compliance shops have to take the flares out, I was given a flare by a nice person though (has a bag full of them).

We need some details on your car first, model, mods etc.

I speak from experience, it's hard to not go all out at Mallala because of the rush, adrenalin and excitement. Your normal wise judgments are completely thrown out the window, I saw my oil temp hit 125c last time I was there, normally I would have slowed down but instead just kept going all-out.

Assuming you have a Nistune personal tuning license or using the one-off trial user. The injector changeover is possible to do yourself, it's just a simple matter of putting the new injectors in, and plugging your laptop into the OBD port and changing the KCON (injector size from stock to current size) and also getting the injector latency right (stock latency * 2, say the sard 700cc injector has a lag time of 0.65ms you put 1.3ms in Nistune). http://nistune.com/docs/NIStune_Mapping_Guide.pdf

if you already have the apexi harness, you could always just go to your local jap parts place or an online one and grab another 2nd hand apexi unit, they're only like $40.. might be less heartache trying to diagnose the current one

I hope you have a auto trans cooler for your auto box, i wouldn't take a auto car to a track without one

Do a proper flush (out of the lines and abs unit) before putting RBF600 or 5.1 in or it defeats the purpose of putting them in, most likely just have standard DOT4 in there currently.

From what I understand of knock sensors, they are tuned to the frequency of the engine when it's making stock power, up the power it becomes less and less accurate

Grab the PDF service manuals for the R32, will be a great help: http://www.importworkshop.com/nissanskyline.html

Which one is the smurfsblood, heavy shockproof or lightweight shockproof?