Moodles2

Always wondered what the exact values should have been, too much word of mouth which is wrong.

Do the 700's need new plugs or will they fit on the stock plugs?

39.7 is amazing for a first run, whats up with the 79.23 time though, sight seeing or go off the track and miss the final timing strip?

Out of the 49 cars today, 5 broke into the 30's which were 3x WRXs, #26 (listed as Nissan Skyline owned by a Luke) and myself in my 32 GTR. I've got the sheets here for all 6 runs by everyone if anyone wants their times (even section times). Awesome day. I posted a 46.48 on my first run, 43.88 on second, 43.45 on third, 42.97 on 4th run, 46.04 on 5th run (it was raining hard, track was a river and a awd launch that wouldn't stop spinning the wheels all the way to the 1st timing line) and finished with a 39.85 with some advice from Evil34 about launches

I'm looking at going aftermarket for injectors and want to know if the Sard 800cc injectors that suit the RB26 fit on the stock fuel rail, or will I need an aftermarket fuel rail?

Could be anything, boost leak, no ceramic wheel left on your turbos, bad coils, air leaks from the intercooler rubber hoses arent uncommon, blown intake manifold/throttle body gasket, dirty air filters. First thing I would suggest, find the R32 GTR service manual pdf on the net (24mb~) and look up the section to put it into self diagnostic mode (shorting acouple pins on the diagnostic port) so you can find any error codes and work from there.

I see my front torque go to 10 on my 32 GTR when i go over a bump in the road

Disconnect the positive and ground terminals off battery and give them a good clean, and give the battery posts a good clean too then put them back on. Where the battery is grounded to the chassis, take it off and give it a clean too make sure it's got a nice clean earth. Run a multimeter across the battery terminals, less than 12v it's likely that it doesn't have the volts to power your things.

Can't take a passenger around Mallala without an rollcage. And even then it's up to the scrutineers and marshalls on the day.

what model, year is it?

There's some stuff called "penetrene" (sp?), supposed to work great for loosening bolts but expensive

if i recall 32 gearbox is about 1.9-2.5l, 34 gearboxes were about 4.1l (or i've got it the wrong way around, either way i'm not completely sure)

Read how a turbo works, how a electronic boost controller works, Re-read your instruction manual over and over, re-read it, and then re-read what I've said, then re-read it again, maybe re-read it again and if you still don't understand please do yourself a big favour and take it to professional because you it's not a matter *if* you blow you turbo it's *when*. If you set it to 50% duty cycle straight away you will most likely get about 20-30psi and blow that turbo.

Every car setup and boost controller is unique, if I said use 47% duty cycle, for me thats 14.7psi with my Gizzmo MS-IBC.. but for you it could mean 30psi and instant turbo death. Start from lowest setting; 10% duty cycle (and gain set to 0), and work your way up in 5% increments.. once you get to 10-11psi, start moving up by 1-2% increments until you hit 12psi, then start tweaking the gain. Only way to test the duty cycle settings is by finding a nice long stretch of road and having the throttle wide open in third to see how high the pressure gets to.

I always wanted a R34 GTR, but when I got my R32 GTR.. lost interest in R34's completely. FC/FD RX7 it would be

Nistune isnt actually a piggyback, its a addon daughterboard.

Never used AEM boost controller before. But these things are universal. Scramble is a temporary special mode usually with a press of a button that ups the boost pressure for a specified ammount of time before going back to normal boost. Duty Cycle controls boost pressure, upping it naturally ups boost. Only turn it up slowly and after verifying in 3rd gear with WOT it's the right pressure, which then that it's not going over your target boost pressure. Gain aka waste gate spring pressure controls how aggressively boost will be delivered (too high boost pressure it will spike, too low and boost pressure takes longer to build), so it's a balancing job to get the right gain... usually gain is best left to tweak on the dyno

Now that I think about it, my mums electric wheel chair runs drycell batteries, and it's recharger recharges in "pulses" which are pretty loud

Never heard of a dry cell battery charger before, is the charger you have one of those fast charging high amp ones?

You might want to look into Nistune, it's much cheaper than a Power FC and you keep the stock ecu

Such a busy weekend, hillcimb, motorkhana and all japan day.. if only we had these various choices every weekend

I don't know what the compression is on the N/A engine, but it might be too high to just bolt a turbo on, without having to open up the engine and bring down the compression (change the pistons etc.) not cheap labour wise anyway.. labour is going to be as high, maybe even higher thanthe cost of the parts put together. I think in the end it's cheaper to just sell the current car and get a GT-T

April 4th they were coming close to max allowed for one day licenses group

I've never actually seen the track before, should be a fun day and a nice drive through the barossa valley

I applied yesterday and was wondering if anyone else was going: http://www.sportingcarclubsa.org.au/Events...nTryCollingrove Collingrove Hillclimb Come 'n Try Day. All you need is a road worthy car and a Club licence (which we can organise for you). Entry forms and details will be available closer to the event. Collingrove Hillclimb, Hill Climb Rd (off the Mt Pleasant-Angaston Rd) approx 7km south/east of Angaston. Application form and more info on the event: http://www.sportingcarclubsa.org.au/Conten...20and%20Try.pdf or apply in person like I did: http://www.sportingcarclubsa.org.au/About.mvc/Admin