Moodles2

My 32 GTR is dead stock except for K&N panel filter, nismo front pipe, catco 3" ceramic hiflow cat and apexi catback and adjustable cam gears (set for midrange torque): 199kw/290Nm at the rears .. it still needs to go back and finish the tune with my replacement EBC

Looking at the demo of it, I think I'll spend alittle extra to get it instead of the basic shift light. Is that site the cheapest? edit: it's the cheapest it seems with free shipping, just ordered mine.. just have to wait now.. you wouldn't believe how many times at Mallala I saw my revs go to 8000

Matt the guy behind Nistune lives here in SA, he'll be able to solder it like he did mine in person The 180 speed limit cut you can change with the software to anything you want

on the track 3rd to 4th is normal to crunch on 32 gtrs (ive been told it will crunch no matter what gearbox fluid you have in there), just delay the shift an extra second and it wont crunch.. as for other crunches with other gears, good quality gearbox oil should help (shaun at boostworx has recommended to me redline's shockproof). As for shift light, looking at a simple one, have my eye on the Gizzmo DSII (http://www.modyourcar.com.au/gizzmo-dsii-shiftlight-p5650)

I'll be out there again with same setup as last week, except more boost and going to get a shift light, gearbox flush too (3rd->4th crunching is annoying)

That black box in the picture is the stock boost guage, the hose it uses runs into the rear of the balance tube, which in turn is connected to the pressure regulator. See this pic to understand what I'm saying: http://tyndago.googlepages.com/RB26VacuumD...m.rev3-full.jpg

Do you have the coil cover on or off when this happens?

The only reason I can really see with replaceing perfectly working stock bov's with aftermarket is to make space to mount an oil cooler on the drivers side.

My bad not muffler, i meant exhaust tip

There will need to be extra piece of pipe put in I think (like before the muffler), otherwise a 2door exhaust is in a position to melt a 4doors bumper

I spent 90 minutes on the track, beforehand the brake cylinder was at max (always been at max before i went to the track for the first time), by the last 15 minutes session i was getting the handbrake light on corners, popped the bonnet sure enough it was between min and max (closer to min). I'm guessing I boiled the fluid, or is it normal to consume brake fluid while on the track?

The cap on my R32 GTR says to use DOT3, not sure what the last owner put in (most likely DOT3), can I mix DOT4 with DOT3? I should I play it safe and only topup with DOT3?

I am the owner of the silver R32 GTR, did all 6 sessions best legal fun I've ever had in a car. Got crossdrilled rotors from and back, didn't get any brake pedal to the firewall action till the last minutes of the 6th session (though I wasn't exactly getting up to high speeds only running 10psi). My jap tyres weren't giving me much traction in the last few sessions, to some behind may have looked like I was trying to drift. RBWARE gave me awesome advice about 3->4th gear crunching, delay it a second and it won't crunch.

I think the same, theres gunk at the bottom of everyones fuel tank, fuel filter change should resolve the restriction caused by the gunk

Nistune setup is tuned from the diagnostic port in driver side cabin fuse box, advantage of it is having the stock ecu diagnostics, whereas (i dont speak from experience) with the PFC setup it's harder to diagnose problems. Also my preferred workshop in SA (Boostworx), Nistune is cheaper to tune than PFC.

I'm up for meeting up somewhere before the open day

the mallala.com website is and has always been absolutely useless, drift practice is at twilight, open track days (bikes, karts and cars) are always during the day

Aren't open track days just 10am to 5pm (opening at 8ish), 4:30am is quite early or 4:30pm quite late (unless i'm completely wrong about open grip days running at night as well)

My car is ready to go, going to put some new thicker oil in (15w-40) tomorrow. Shame I'll be running with no boost control (aka stock actuator pressure 10psi) with a very conservative tune (EBC let go on the dyno, tune not finished), boost controller is going back to the manufacturer to be replaced.

After twin pod kit to suit R32 GTR's stock AFMs, even if it's just the elbows from say the Apexi kit and I have to source the pod filters myself. PM please

I run a Autech style oil/air seperator on my GTR. The attached picture is of a justjap car with it installed, hi octane performance's website sells them for cheaper than justjap do.

Oil temp guage? it's a oil pressure gauge, lower revs, lower the pressure, higher revs (or giving it a boot), raises the pressure. and I believe if you get your glasses on it's probably measured in kg/m

I did upload FAST to some web mirrors, but I don't know if they're still up (instructions in the link as well) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/VI...;gopid=4277147# a1, a2, a3, b1 & b2 is all skylines (up to 2001 if you have the version everyone has)

do R34 GTTs have the boost pressure guage in millilitres of mercury per gram(or kg?).. 10psi should read about 75% between 0 and +7 (roughly 13.4psi)

Boostworx recently installed my oil cooler+relocator+inline thermo ($400) to the passenger side of my gtr which im really happy about. Worth the 90 minute public transport trip