Moodles2

That's exactly right, they were using Castrol Edge and it still happened. But then again the person I quoted originally has blown up 3 or so RB's.

I think it has been said by afew people they have got ID1000's to idle nicely with Nistune, maybe ID2000's also but I'm not 100% sure on that. As for AFMs, Nistune has a bunch of them preset which can be selected from a dropdown box, would need the software to know exactly which are preset, otherwise I think you can program an unknown one in knowing the voltage corrections.

A testament to Castrol Edge 10w60 being invincible: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__3569073 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__3052899 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__3052783 http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/46581-report-that-engine-failure/page__view__findpost__p__2311005 Doesn't matter what oil you use, you can and will spin a bearing. It's oil starvation and oil surge (also negligent owners) that kills RBs, not oil choices. I failed to find an engine failure reported that they used a 5w30 oil, I'd like to know what ass that was pulled from.

I don't know if there is a difference between GTR and non-GTR sway bars, but the GTR specific ones might be different in the way that they're counter-acting front oversteer caused by the weight of the added ATESSA gear, without that extra weight on a GTS-t for example it might do what you're not expecting (excessive oversteer or understeer).

Drive onto bricks/pavers if you haven't tried already

20psi of vacuum? yeah right

For a good road tune with Nistune here in SA, you could try one of the developers behind Nistune. Is a SR specialist, but I've heard others had their skylines roadtuned by Pete: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/

Looks like a GTR in profile pic. So here goes, R33 use a different type of oxygen sensor (zirconia) that will have weird behaviour when dealing with R32 oxygen sensors (titania). It should start the car no problem though.

Tomei are the only camshafts that are setup for factory cam gears (0 degrees on IN and EX), others brands absolutely require adjustable cam gears to be dialed up which can only be done on a dyno.

Standard airbox already has a CAI, taken from behind the headlight.

Standard stuff, replace fuel filter, check TPS voltage at closed and open throttle, check/fix solder joints in AFM etc Did it happen with low fuel in the tank?

HKS green mushroom pod filters are good at stopping rocks,

Something that is effected by heat but usually works fine when cold, CAS or coilpack ignitor (if it's the early series with the external one, not the ignitors built into each coil in the later series)

I used regular castrol DOT4 for my clutch. Are you sure it doesn't say "not to be mixed with dot3" or something like that? Other than boiling point different, DOT3 is chemically the same as DOT4 except DOT4 contains borate esters. DOT4 might theoretically eat away at the rubber seals or the rubber brake lines if it's a "DOT3 only" system. Knowing Nissan they were most likely looking ahead, and made the system compatible with DOT4, it's just the DOT 4 standard hadn't been formally introduced yet (no idea what year it was introduced).

The fuel pump controller that switches between 6v/12v might be the problem. Does the ECU spit out any error codes?

Always taking a risk on the spray pattern with highflows (fuel economy). Also while they may be flow matched, will have an unknown lag time which is important to get idle right etc (alot of guesswork to find the correct value)

Injector cleaner is a waste of money, does nothing. If your having trouble with 1/4 left in the tank, then you might have an aftermarket fuel pump (walbro, bosch etc), they rarely get installed correctly and this is what always happens.

Might have bypassed the fuel dampener

Brushes or bearings are shot.

RHDJapan has alot of genuine Nissan skyline gear so you should be able to find what your after for half the price. If you need it ASAP, try Kudos motorsports, sponsor on this board.

Standard water pumps tend to cavitate at high RPM at the track, N1 pump apparently has a plate on the back of the propellor to prevent this. You could just get a different pulley to underdrive the standard water pump.

$400 is rather cheap considering the amount of work involved, I just hope they do the job right.

Note that speeding up the shifting process puts more strain on the gearbox and will likely crunch gears if it isn't already

+7 = 13.2psi. If this is a stock ECU we're talking about, welcome to R&R. Solution: aftermarket ECU + tune.

Terminals on both battery and the terminals themselves need a good clean and wirebrushing. If you have a multimeter, fully charge the battery up. Take a voltage reading at full charge, then take the next reading the next day or so and compare. Battery shouldn't loose any voltage while sitting between readings, if it does then it needs replacing (or cells needs to be topped up with distilled water) It's weird that you would loose voltage in the battery since everything is being powered by the alternator not the battery while driving.