Moodles2

I use Nissan LLC as well.

Is the AFM actually maxing out at peak power, or is it just peaking at 5v and maxing out at 4.x volts? You should see a theoretical max of 350kw with a single Z32 I agree that calibrating the AFM needs a dyno, you need to map out the voltage curve (plotting various voltage positions vs the stock AFM at idle, WOT etc) as the PFC doesn't have the specs for lightning MAFs builtin. I've read the VQ maps are close and maybe can be tweaked to suit. Nistune does have support for lightning mafs though, you might be able to copy the specs and use them for the PFC.

Faulty coolant temp sensor maybe, it could be reporting the engine being warmer than it actually is, so leaves cold start enrichment too early.

Maroon are 270cc injectors, they are also side feed I believe.

Process of elimination: - Borrow a known working AFM. If the AFM swap fixes the problem, then look at cleaning your AFM with a proper AFM cleaner and also resolder the cold solder joints in the AFM. - Borrow a known working CAS - Check timing with a timing light, the belt might have skipped a tooth or 2. - Check fuel pressure. If the original pump is still in there, it's 18-23 years old and it's probably starting to struggle and needs replacing anyway. Walbro 255 or Bosch 040 are popular cheap pumps (just make sure to get a genuine one, forum sponsors are the best bet). - Compression test - Replace fuel filter - Try unplugging the O2 sensor, it could be faulty but it's a long shot.

More info needed. Is it a Gates racing belt (blue) etc. Did the mechanic/workshop who did the work, actually work on RBs?

GT2860-9's are twin GTR turbos A GT2860RS is a Disco potato aka an SR turbo, if you wanted bolton for a RB, then you've got the wrong turbo.

Might need to resolder the cold solder joints on the AFM plug or on the AFM

I've actually been wondering if Syn-X 6000 was a true synthetic (100% PAO Group IV stock) myself, for the price I've been having doubt about it, as it would seem too good to be true. But what really matters to me personally is that people have success, at least GW isn't charging us for it, as if it were a true Group IV oil like Nulon tries with their Group III/IV blend "full synthetic"

Turn signals lights usually use a single element 1156 bulb, brake/tail lights and sometimes turn signals use 1157 bulbs (dual filament 5w/21w etc). The only difference between the 2 is obviously the single/dual filament and the placement of the prongs. Someone might have put a 1157 bulb where a 1156 was needed or vice versa. I know it's possible to force either into the opposing socket, and wierd things can happen. I've done this myself on my motorbike's tail light. To tell the difference between bulbs: http://autorepair.about.com/od/electricalrelateddiyjobs/l/aa010502b.htm

If he cleaned it with carby cleaner, then he probably ruined your AFM.

Someone has said (tuner or engine builder) that they've dealt with some dodgy "custom" RB oil sumps that have lunched acouple engines due to poor design. I assumed it was the Hi-Octane ones?

Id I had to consider silicon hoses, it would probably be the Samco kit. It doesn't contain every hose though so it would be a mix of that and OEM hoses.

Heaps of people have complained about these silicone hoses developing pin hole leaks, even with replacement hoses. I recommend OEM.

Brake fluid is hygroscopic (except DOT 5 which is silicon based), the older it is, the higher the water content. Standard DOT 4 boils at around 220C, good fluids boil at around ~270C, the top end Motul RBF600 boils at around 315C while water boils at 100C. Once brake fluid boils it's completely useless as air is introduced in the lines, and putting the brake pedal flat to the floor won't do anything. Moral of story, change brake fluid when you do a big change like change rotors/pads, and especially change it before a track day.

Your oil/water exchanger is in the picture, it might be leaking oil from there.

Hissing is the sound of vacuum, look at the small vacuum hoses going to the charcoal canister (big black cylinder) and the hose to the factory (map) boost sensor on the driver's side firewall, maybe even the hose to the turbo's actuator. Either a hose has blown off or split

The problem with using cheap studs not suitable for exhaust parts, it will bite you in the ass in the long run when they seize/weld up if you ever decide the turbo and exhaust parts off again. It's why the GCG Inconel studs are so expensive

Different companies make billet gears for N1 pumps: Reimax (japan), JPC (aussie) etc. The standard N1 gears are made from sintered steel and are known to crack & shatter. As far as the best oil pump money can buy, is probably the Tomei pump because as far as I know it's the only oil pump that has an external oil pressure adjuster, all other pumps need to be taken off to adjust pressure. With oil control, you really need to read the big thread that's on here somewhere. Things off the top of my head are: Enlarging the factory drains (in both the block and head) from 8mm to 9mm-9.5mm, with RB25's I can't remember what is recommended to block whether it's the VCT feed or the middle feed. I'm not sure what the factory oil restrictors are in RB25's, but I know RB26's come with 2mm restrictors standard. Switching to RB26 rocker covers so you can use Mine's cam baffles. Overfilling to 6L-6.5L. Those rear head drains don't actually work like most people think, instead of draining oil from the head, it helps relieve crankhouse pressure to allow oil to drain back to the sump quicker via the factory drains.

The smaller the gap, the easier is it to get a good spark (but at the slight cost of power), so the 0.8mm gapped plugs would have helped prevent the misfire if the 1.1mm gap was the cause of the misfiring on the old plugs. Just because the coilpacks were brought last year, don't rule them out. We need more information like does it misfire while cold, or only when warmed up. Also does it misfire at idle or at high revs etc?

It's kinugawa and yes search this question comes up everyday

Throttle position sensor might need adjusting. Should read 0.4-0.5 volts at 0% throttle, and about 4.something volts at 100% throttle

Some type of signal bender, a piggyback no doubt.

Does it misfire when dead cold, or only when warmed up? If only when warm, look at the coilpack ignitor module or the CAS.

I believe it doesn't come on till after 400C. It's really just to let you know the exhaust is hot enough to ignite grass. But it can serve a purpose on a modified car though, it could be that your cat might have collapsed or partially blocked. Though with those mods listed and the light not coming on at the track or the dyno, it just could mean your tune or specifically the low-mid (cruise) areas of your tune are lean.