Moodles2

No. They come out the same factory(s) (Garrett's factories around the world, my -9's came from their Mexico factory etc), it wouldn't make sense if Garrett built the entire complete turbo to HKS' specs (minus actuator), and then for HKS to just go and open them up and change it again.

This may not be 100% accurate but it's close enough: HKS used the -7 and redesigned the compressor wheel and tweaked other small things and called them GT-SS. Garrett made these turbos for HKS (with HKS stamped compressor covers) without actuators (because HKS fitted their own adjustable actuators) for 5 years until the deal between them expired which allowed Garrett to sell that turbo to the public which they called the 707160-9 (or -9 for short). For acouple years now, HKS GT-SS kits have been coming with Garrett stamped compressor covers. Difference between the HKS and Garrett stamped cover in the GT-SS kits? Nothing, just the old kits have HKS covers, and new ones have Garrett covers.

8500rpm (8000+) usually means you have a Mine's ECU or a modified stock ECU

FPR @ 90psi (WTF!), an ebay special turbo... this car sounds like a bomb that is ready to blow at any time.

You might find it's cheaper to buy bigger aftermarket injectors, than replace with genuine Nissan injectors.

Something is causing the heat, maybe timing is off (retarded) causing engine temps to skyrocket passing through the engine or turbo. You might want to confirm what your coolant temp actually is, as it could be heating up the oil via the oil/water exchanger. The new penrite marketing is alittle wierd, the 10w70 is actually 10w60, admitted for a street driven car the hot rating is completely wrong, you should be using one with a hot rating of 40, 50 max. I highly doubt it's the oil choice that is responsible for the heat problems.

It's not whether the AEM is a good ECU or not, it's whether the tuner is anygood or not with that ECU. Unless you'll be happy with a rubbish tune.

For starters what you are saying is very vague. There really isn't a concrete way to test coilpacks, they either work or don't work. If they're not working you can try taping them up with electrical tape which prevents the spark from arcing. Clean up the ground wire on the ignitor module, it's possible switching to the "working" coilpacks (unplugging and replugging the ignitor) actually made sure it was connected properly or the ground starting working. Next would be replacing with (cheap) copper spark plugs. If the car is working perfectly while cold, but plays up when hot, it's the coilpack ignitor or sometimes the CAS that needs replacing. If all of the above are ruled out, then new coilpacks.

^ +1

245 is very narrow, for a 10" wide rim, there will be a pretty big stretch. The problem will be tyre shops, they might not take the legal risk and responsibility of stretching 245's onto those rims. Really you want 265+ on them

You really shouldn't be playing with the BOV if it's got a tune. It's going to be a combination of things that is the cause for the bad fuel economy. A possibility that hasn't been mentioned is the coolant temp sensor, without a working one it will be stuck in cold enrichment and chew through fuel.

If it's a blocking type solenoid, then I think it's either faulty at the controller (not sending the right signal) or faulty at the solenoid (range of movement, it's not blocking the line completely)

I've never seen the PCV blocked on a RB26 until now.

Check the exhaust wheel on the turbo, might be missing entire blades on the ceramic wheel.

If there is no gas in the system, then obviously it hasn't been used which means there was nothing to lubricate the A/C seals. The seals have probably dried up now and couldn't hold gas anyway. You're looking at regas, maybe new seals and possibly a new condenser depending on when the last time it was used. R32's originally took R12 gas which has been illegal for while, R34's most likely have R134A or R14A I can't remember which. R12 systems either need to be retrofitted to R134A http://www.epa.gov/ozone/title6/609/technicians/retrguid.html or I believe there is a refrigerant is compatible with R12 systems but not as originally effective as R12

It will be a headache, regency will most likely want engineers certificates for whats been modified and regency will want to do a full check on it.

SEARCH!

Why a GTR pump fitted to a to a RB25 crankshaft, sounds pretty stupid.

When I installed my EBC, the workshop had to run a new manifold source line as DVS has said, the stock line doesn't work (the source is already bled, clutch line iirc)

Modified the stock drain which was a big headache as it kept pissing oil, after the 3rd fitting it finally stopped leaking oil, really should have brought the aftermarket drain from GCG though

At 100% duty cycle, you should see unlimited boost as the mac valve would effectively be bleeding all the air. Just to confirm you have a manifold pressure line connected, a wastegate line connected, and 1 port on the solenoid not hooked up to anything?

Had the same problem with my -9's

Sure you haven't adjusted gain instead of duty cycle?

With the hoses joined that that, you will only see actuator pressure (7-8psi). If you had the factory solenoid (found between battery and front drivers strut, labelled something like 'Nissan PCM valve') you would see 10-11psi with restrictor, and 14.7psi without restrictor. If you don't have the factory solenoid, then get a decent boost T like a turbotech (the best of the boost T's) and adjust it, but bear in mind the resolution of the factory gauge is only +7 (13.2psi) and even then it's not very accurate.

The front diff isn't actually a LSD but a regular diff, Nismo do make LSD centers though to suit.