Moodles2

It sounds like the brushes need to be replaced, can be done with the most basic of soldering skill. Though find an apprentice auto elec. and they'll probably do it alot cheaper.

Is the drivers side door rubber surround in good condition (no holes) ?

The kink in the dipstick is a good point to overfill to, from how the dipstick sits there is still alot of real estate between the kink and the crank

As for cheap coils, just keep an eye out in the groupbuys and business trader sections, last I saw was a groupbuy for $320 for a set

It's possible the inline fuse on the powersource is dodgy somehow. Where are you drawing power from to power the amp? It's also possible your alternator just isnt up to the task of pwering your sound system.

CAS could possibly be dead

Are you running the recommended gap for your application?

They should be exactly the same size as the Z145A, or pretty close (I've never actually seen a genuine GTR filter).

Make sure you actually clean off the oil where the pipes joins as no matter what clamp or how hard you have it clamped down it will just blow off again at with high pressure. What kinda clamps are you using? I suggest replacing them with these: Norma constant Tension S/S wormdrive clamps If money isn't an issue go with the Sard (Sard dual bead clamp) or Turbosmart (Turbosmart Murray Clamps) How much PSI are you running also? Intercooler clamps have been discussed quite abit: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...sn-t259242.html http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/In...tr-t272125.html

In the past I've read anything in cars imported from japan that werent nailed down, were taken by warfies. turbo timers etc

Yeah cleaning injectors is no problem if you have your own ultrasonic cleaner, maybe a jeweler could do it cheap their their ultrasonic cleaner, done by pros who does fuel injectors your looking at about 20-40 per injector cleaned.

It should really just slip back onto the belt nicely. If the cam gear teeth don't line up with the belt, but try adjusting the gear either advanced or retarded until it slips back, this isn't ideal as you'll have to remember that position is actually neutral (I think thats how it works anyway).

When I cleaned mine out (2nd hand), I filled it with about half a can of degreaser, blocked the 2 holes with my thumbs and shook it violently for about 5 minutes, then pointed my high pressure water sprayer in one end and all the oil was spraying like a fountain out the other. Did the same again but with WD40, then again with carby cleaner. Then just turned it upsidedown overnight so whatever was still in there drained out

If I ever went pods, I would go Apexi Nice little review of the different Jap pod filters: http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/2/

Try the forum sponsers, Greenline have been good in my experience, no longer than a week for things to be delivered from Japan.

When/if the groupbuy will go ahead, won't be able to start until the early next month as his supplier of the LCD parts themselves are out of stock. As for groupbuy numbers, need 4 others minimum (as I'm getting one myself) to get the $20 discount, though ideally I would want to run the groupbuy long enough to get 10 others for the $30 discount. Though would be nice to get 20+ others to get the $40 discount.

http://www.ezyreg.sa.gov.au/registrations/...inspections.asp

What gap are you running on your plugs?

Where do stock GTR AFMs max out, I seem to remember reading about 280kw though I thought maybe it was closer to 300kw?

You really need your agent to see the car in person, I was lucky to get Kristian from Iron Chef to look over my GTR in person when he was in Japan for afew weeks last year.

I emailed Pete (NewKleer on here) about the possibility of running another groupbuy, only problem is he doesn't have the time to run one, but he is willing to give a groupbuy discount on the Consult LCD V2 Displays if someone is willing to run the groupbuy. I'm just trying to gauge the interest RRP is $228 delivered for the normal green display, $233 delivered for blue display. Basically you get what you see in the pictures, and a USB A-B cable + dust plug for the USB port. Has a consult passthrough builtin (the pictured usb plug in the bottom left corner) that will let you use free Consult software with your ECU like these, Nistune and other commercial Consult software should work fine as well. Group buy prices: 5-10 displays $200+8 express postage = $208 ($213 for blue) 11-20 displays $190+8 express postage = $198 ($203 for blue) 21-30 displays $180+8 express postage = $188 ($193 for blue) Pickup will probably be possible from the supplier for Sydney siders, though you would have to organise a suitable day and time with NewKleer for pickup. More info on the product: http://ecutalk.com/consultlcd.aspx Can find more info about the product in past groupbuys: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ec...Di-t228314.html (the current V2 Display) http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ec...pl-t130985.html (the old V1 Display

I missed the part about it being converted from a non-turbo, maybe your solenoid is hidden somewhere.

It's normal, read this on how to get 10psi before 4500rpm: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/HO...ost-t42895.html

My deposit has been DD'd

http://ecutalk.com/ecutalk.aspx http://techdiag.co.uk/obdscantech/web/pg002.html http://www.calumsult.com/calumsu/CalumSult/ http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/conzult/downloads.htm http://eccs.hybridka.com/viewtopic.php?t=263 and for those mac users out there: http://members.cox.net/epooch/