Moodles2

Does the volt gauge show a solid 12v when cranking? or does it drop to say 9v

Get a friend to pump the brakes while you examine the cylinder, how far is the cylinder flexing?

Check the belts for cracks

All I can suggest is make sure the ignitor has a good ground.

Try CRD, they sell the Nitto metal gaskets for pretty cheap for the RB26, hopefully Nitto do them for the RB25 as well.

Try Nistune as a cheap option, doesn't have boost control though.

Is the wheel steel?

Is the wheel steel?

another thing to consider, was it HICAS or ATTESSA (obviously with a GTS-T/GT-T this doesn't apply) that could possibly be effected by a aftermarket wheel?

I've got a cusco offset bracket coming in the mail, think it was $63 delivered, the cheapest I could find which was greenline or perfectrun i've forgotten.

What about light track work with ADR approved lines, just afew times a year at the track. Still not recommend them? It seems for the price you get ADR approved here, you can import Nismo/APP lines for about the same price.

With the Nissan 5 speed on R32's, is that hole in the plug a standard socket wrench size and same as the extension bars?

My hoses used to blow off my carbon canister, made sure to hoseclamp them down.

The first issue with different calipers, is making sure your wheels fit on perfectly and don't scrape the calipers. A cheap upgrade that will should bolt on is the GTR brembos As for other good brake upgrades have a look at: http://nismo.com.au/pricelists/pricelist_skylinebrakes.htm

Some manufacturers have their own procedure for bedding in their rotors or pads, check their site(s) first.

Reset the ECU if you haven't done it already

Shaun at Boostworx says he uses the same dyno settings he uses for all 6 cylinder cars, cat is still intact (front and back). Boostworx made a mistake with the inlet leak diagnosis, had a 2nd mechanic try and find the leak and couldn't. Took it back to Boostworx and they couldn't find it again. Then again the day I had it dyno'd and tune tidied up it was a 45degree C day (and the dyno sheet says AT is 25, which if ambient temp is very wrong).

Only Just Cars will insure you, best to do their online quote thing, the full comprehensive will be approx 1-2k and excess about 1k to 1.5k

When doing a proper flush, do you completely flush out the current fluid, run cheap fluid in the system and flush it out, then put the good fluid (rbf600 etc) in?

Gain controls the wastegate, low setting the boost comes on slowly, high setting boost comes on fast but risk boost spike (balancing act to boost to come on quickly without spiking). Set is possibly solenoid duty cycle, if it is indeed that, raising it will raise boost pressure

Depends how cheap you wanna go, Cheap option I guess something from hypergear, unless you want to take a risk on a "ebay special"

You can increase high end power by sacrificing alittle midrange, or get more midrange sacrificing alittle top end. I think the usual setup is 4 degrees on the intake cam gear and 2 degrees on the exhaust cam gear.

I got them off finally, gave them afew WD40 treatments.. turned out I have a big ass 17mm ring spanner already, put it on and after some gentle persuasion with a 5kg hammer I loosen them. The hardest one was the one below the master brake cylinder, I nearly had to resort to taking my strut tower bar off as I had no room to hit the end of the spanner.

My Cusco BCS arrived in the mail today and and tried to install it on my 32 GTR, but the 2 suspension tower nuts near the master cylinder won't come loose, and because of lack of space I don't have room to get my socket wrench in there, only my adjustable spanner. I tried WD40 but didn't help much, and I haven't seen Penetrene on sale here in SA in ages.

Behind the oil filter if that's what your after.