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rtune

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  1. I might be biased. But : http://www.exportcar.jp/en/component/auctstat/?view=auctstatdetail&id=2fyNiwUJuIOfzFH that's $110k FOB for a modified R34 vs-2 in excellent condition..
  2. big price drop to $1500 !! they are taking up space, need them to go..
  3. Ja pro cell 3 gallon This part: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/jzp-250-003-nf/overview/ perfect for a surge tank, water injection or other application. Contains foam block
  4. type B needs different pistons to stop the pistons hitting the valves.
  5. unfortunately no, but there is more than one yahoo action buying service you can use. http://www.mailorder...japan/index.php http://yahoojapanauctions.com/ and many more since it is such a small item you need not use a car parts yahoo auctions proxy, any of them would do You could also try this http://www.fasttobuy...reen_p7698.html they actually list a price and a minimum quantity of 1 but I'd try to get a conversation going with a human before paying for anything. And this ebay seller http://www.ebay.com/itm/LTM084P363-LTM08C351-LTM08C351S-NLL75-8651-11A-Toshiba-8-4-LCD-Panel-/251106559080#ht_1924wt_922 claim to have access to the same part number so you could contact them via ebay.
  6. More info: Prior to Sep 1999 BNR34 - Sharp After Jan 2000 BNR34 - Toshiba (till April 2003) In between these dates - boost may show kg/cm2 for Sharp, kPa for Toshiba (this reveal is not for Nismo updates though, during the change-over it may be either one). Youtube video sequence on replacement diy: Http://Www.Youtube.Com/watch?V=JxkvHyZ0t1o Http://Www.Youtube.Com/watch?V=ZPFmazkCTRg Http://Www.Youtube.Com/watch?V = PAqaPcROq6g Http://Www.Youtube.Com/watch?V=yJUG_Tn8RR4 Http://Www.Youtube.Com/watch?V=z3XrhmmjBpA You can find these screens on Yahoo Auctions, however they are priced at over 15,000 yen to 20,000 yen ($185 +). If you need the Sharp panels, please look to auctions.yahoo.co.jp via a buying service. See http://page4.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/d132764089
  7. The kit is specifically for the R34 and comes with springs, so I suppose it was right. I'd agree that i may have got used to the Ohlins EXCEPT that I did a couple of thousand clicks on s-tunes too, and did not have a complaint. They have much lower spring rates than the Ohlins. I'd have expected the PSS9s to be close to s-tune suspension, instead they feel worse at the moment than both the track-oriented flag-R and the S-tunes, (and stock as well).
  8. Change to .. rtune please thanks.
  9. Ah blend door actuator that makes sense, I'll try to find a second hand one.. thanks.
  10. On my R34 GTR, I paid for and had installed a stock set of bilstein B16 PSS9 coilovers (specifically for R34) part GM5-8075-MO Unfortunately i don't like the ride much. Set to minimum damping - bouncy as hell (rear mainly). No surprise there. But even on maximum damping, they are still "bouncy". I can't speak for how well they handle, not having tracked them, but take the smoothest freeway surface you can imagine, but with the normal very gentle undulations. Now drive at 60 to 80kmh on it, and my head is bouncing off the back of the headrest, and the car has the jiggles, and I'm going up and down in the seat slightly. From outside you wouldn't tell, it isn't riding like a car with shot shocks, It just feels .. bouncy, on a small scale. The resonance is worse with certain surfaces and speed ranges. Going faster is ok. My experience so far has been S-tunes .. no bounce & Ohlin Flag-R .. harder, much more direct connected feel, but still less bounce than the PSS9 Is there a front-rear setting I should try? Also, at very low speeds eg in carparks, they click clack a bit from the front you can provoke that noise with the steering. Everything is torqued down right - I am told.
  11. Every 7 seconds, from within the dash, I hear a "Tock-tick" sound. Or if you like, a "click-click" sound (the clicks do not sound identical). 7 second gap then tick-tick then 7 second second gap. It happens whether the climate control is on or off, and whether the A/C is on or off. It is very regular, and is most audible when stopped, very faintly audible when driving on smooth roads. isn't related to heat, cold, speed, engine being in gear or out of gear. When I got the car from Japan, it was not making this sound. At some point in the last few years, after one or other workshop / service / whatever, it has started the clicking.
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