rtune

How do ferrari get to sell and register their cars when their exhausts are so bloody noisy? I was behind an F430 and it did a very small squirt, the sound was louder than the loudest skyline I ever heard. Nobody ever EPA's their ass? Because they have loadsamoney, a lawyer on speed dial, and live in rose bay?

I read some info on foam filling and don't really like what I read. Nissan or Nismo recommend against it too. Why? because although it appears to add rigidity, it will not flex, it will simply snap. So it might be great for a road car and add rigidity to a point, but hammer it around a circuit and sooner or later (maybe sooner) it is going to snap at the point(s) that are doing most work, and once snapped it is totally useless and nearly impossible to remove. Stands to reason, I mean, take the popular foam products and make a tube, let them set. Very tough, like an iron bar? but would you lean it against a wall at 45 degrees and stand on it? jump on it? you can do that with a roll cage, no problem, but the foam will snap like a stick of rock candy. You can probably hit 2g vertical on some corners on some circuits.. thats a 500 kg load hammering against the foam .. which has no flex at all ..

A pump from shurflo (identical to the ones used in the kits) cost $100 and something and does 150psi. So boost is not an issue. The rest is tubing, nozzles, fitments, and a controller which could be as simple as a PSI driven 12v switch (hobbs switch) for $50, and a plastic tank.. so I don't know where $1000 comes from. Even the entry level off the shelf stuff is only a few hundred.

I don't see the need to inject pre turbo, and definitely not pre intercooler. Pre inlet does exactly the right job why muck around? plus if you are injecting 100% meth, it seems to me to be more risky to inject a flammable substance just inches from something that is glowing possibly red hot (the exhaust side of the turbo). actually the best system is to MIX the water/meth with the fuel and let the injectors do the job! there is a patent out on that, a system to mix before the injectors always in the correct ratio. The next best thing is to have the type of controller that can atomize based on injector duty cycle. Then there is no more mucking around with maf or psi triggered injection - you are basically guaranteed the right mix all the time, no matter the engine load.. (key it to only cut in with duty cycle over 20% so you don't use it on cruise). Then you are running around with the functional equivalent of C16 racing fuel. You can buy VP Coogee 20L for $60, so in the correct proportion, that is only adding at most 60 cents per liter cost when the sprayer is on, and perhaps as low as 30 cents per liter. If servos sold 110 octane fuel for $1.70 you'd all be buying that all day every day! And of course if you can handle a 200L tank safely, the math is even better.

At a wild guess, 2009 numbers are going to half 2008 and russia will have fallen more than most on a percentage basis.

This post brought to you by SAU policies: Well, My experience is that several people told me XXXXXXXX aren't interested unless you're a walking check book and are able to keep selling you upgrades without really finding the root of the problem, YYYYYYY drilled my wiring loom, denied it, then owned up after being pushed, and also told me weird stuff that doesn't really check out, ZZZZZZZ don't have a four wheel dyno, and so charge you their time to remove and re-attach your drive-shaft *and* I had to help them interpret an HKS manual.. So, so far, my conclusion is they are all pretty awful and we as customers are fscking pansies & pushovers because who in the end can we complain to? we can't complain online and we can't whine to the consumer protection authorities over non-engineered probably street-illegal upgrades. In the end it is probably like finding a drug dealer.. risky, expensive, and they are flighty and prone to withhold the best stuff from anyone who they believe isn't sufficiently grateful.

yeah and what I meant was the power band is narrow because there is no point using that last 1500 rpm.. power goes DOWN, markedly. So you need to change gears at 6000, otherwise you lose.. the rest of that plot is a waste of paper. A tuned rb26 you can change pretty much at redline, the drop off is so mild and only the last 400rpm. sure it does 500hp from 5000 rpm ... but only for 1000 rpm of usable revs!

just in case anyone cares, Biketek in Leumeah (Frank) is the go-to guy for ohlins service and reconditioning. His front desk has all these posters signed by superbike riders. "Thanks, Frank." type scribbles on them.. he charges less then $200 for full servicing per shock, and that is worst case .. He is doing my ohlins flag-r right now.

Well my point stands - they they are cheap as chips now. here is a proper example: http://page7.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/g68814200 yours! for less than 20,000 yen...

Where did you get the midori "style" stuff then?I was looking at ARC (not the titanium ARC) in japan and they have some nice fully adjustable sway kits (in choice of colors!) but the price now is like 70,000 yen per end.

thanks, two jack stands is workable? do one side of the car on a tilt, then the other?

I found it on google street view http://maps.google.com/maps?f=q&source...580881691275197

Which whiteline bits came in the kit if you don't mind me asking? did you get a product number list? reason I'm asking is they sell more than few alternatives..

So I have this big brake kit, and some r34 ohlins. Although the sane choice is to pay a workshop the fun choice is to do it myself. So what do I need for tools? is there any traps? I've watched a youtube clip and I can see a rubber hammer, and grinder (looks like a sort of super dremel) used for cutting more space into the backing plate.. What about the coilovers? Do i need to remove the rear parcel shelf to get at the mounting points? how about the brake fluid? I think the kit comes with fluid, so I need to drain, re-fill and flush the air out? Since I'll be selling my r34 brembo set, maybe I should be asking if a handy buyer wants to come along to help me remove them, I can learn from them? I don't even have a trolley jack. I can hire one from kennards at a ridiculous rate for 24 hours.. but i have a nice space to work in and time on my hands..

the new JL Audio slim-line sub.. the enclosure can be amazingly small but it has real punch. http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs_pa...php?page_id=245

Pickup in east sydney sold: timing belt, oil, turbo timer update: Car parts: New stock nissan airbox filter, $20 ono used Greddy e-manage gold R34 harness, $40 ono nulon Octane booster 1 bottle, $15 (retail over $20) New R.I.P.S combined catch can and washer bottle R34, with stealth vent to atmo! $800 New magnaflow hi-flow ceramic cat with 3" flanges (for R34), $40 ono (retail: over $200). No sensor hole. Power FC Apexi BRAND NEW IN BOX with hand controller $1150 (best price on ebay is $1380+shipping) RB26 low mount 6boost manifolds (pair) _ceramic coated_ $1200 (cheaper than group buy, better than stock) AUDIO NIB HD600/4 JL AUDIO slim line (light weight!) AMP - $750 (latest. AWESOME amp, retails for north of $1000) NIB 3sixty.2 signal processor - $500 ono (AWESOME signal processor) Dragster style battery isolation off/on switch with red key (see picture) - $25

looks like a race on the hume highway (160kmh) has added two cars to the cops 3 month lot. One a skyline.

I think that degree of variability is at the end. From stock I imagine most cars should get the same upgrades just like in the area of power: everyone improves a short list, the same way. And what to do first, middle and last is well understood. But whatever.

Do you have one that is specific to skylines? perhaps you can post it? I'm not trying to prove anything, but from past searches whenever suspension questions got raised the solution generally bogged down into the "sydneykid setup".. which is not available now. So I thought there should be some more info to go on.

I have them on my 34, they lower the ride height from stock but honestly you'd be hard pressed to notice. They are compliant on streets at ~5kg and have 5 clicks of adjustability, I think the proper s-tune suspension comes with matched anti sway bars as well.. They are dirt cheap in Japan in the used parts market now, presumably because most people sell them and uprate to two or three way adjustable suspensions. I certainly would not pay list price, for example here is an r34 used set for 30,000 yen http://page11.auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/n66127123 I think @ list price you are paying partly the nismo label.

great! typical! just as I shelled out for a name brand big brake kit!! nevertheless it isn't clear to me.. Are you saying you already have mounting solutions for the caliper on R34s (R33, R32 also)? and if so, what would be an example price for a front solution for an R34 using your example 1050 AUD caliper? and then rear .. mounting solutions for matched rear? handbrake and all? and price for that? If they are half the price of an AP racing kit, aren't you gonna undercut your own sales?

did he ask you for a much bigger deposit initially? if it was a scam, it was a pretty weak one..

SK had very set ideas on suspension setup, always saying that spring rates were the last thing that needed upgrading, and that sway bars were the key. (He would always bring up Oran Park as the reason soft spring rates are necessary). I wonder what he would say about these two flow diagrams which describe the tuning process for an M3 CSL with three way adjustable shocks.. They are at the end of an illuminating PDF that has sat on the UK's foremost M3 tuning shop.. (Thorney). M3 is a rear wheel drive car and every car is going to be different but to me this flow diagram looks applicable in general to any car with adjustments.. Notice that spring rates are NOT always the last on the list to get adjusted (firmer or softer).

yeah. Interestingly it is 80mm before the mid "muffler" -- and then opens up to 90mm to the rear muffler.. I suppose because of the difficulty obtaining 90mm dumps and 90mm cats! also weighs 6kg vs stock 18kg

just keep scrolling. yahoo auction format is vendor ads, then the normal yahoo framework showing the item!