rtune

Who does taller rear wing stays?

Looks great! is it the nismo z-tune bits, which are about 1500 USD for the l/r front wings alone, or are they look-alikes? does the engine vent through the sides now, any decrease in temps?

How is the nismo z-tune (the crazy expensive) bonnet on ADR? Same issues?

boost control courtesy HKS EVC6 .. I'll get to the bottom of it the next time it goes in for whatever else. and yeah I will either flange the cats or entirely replace those sections with something else. Off topic, but, where does 60mm split to 80mm (3.1 inch) combined tend to be the biggest obstacle to power? @ 300kw? 400kw? eg I notice all the good dumps are 70mm, not 60mm...

my understanding was the opposite, that a (dual) solenoid is much faster than a stepper. A stepper is like a servo: it turns to vary the degree of opening. A solenoid is practically instant: from fully closed to fully open. So it cycles very quickly between the two states to simulate any condition required. My hunch is it comes to the programming of the unit - i expect both under the right cpu control can do what it takes - but it makes sense to me that a solenoid can switch to whatever degree of impediment required within a fraction of a second vs a stepper which has to, well, step...

$1250 inc shipping, or very near offer. Bought new in December. reason for sale: wife found out.

well it is hard to say for sure without trying it but it looks to be 15 LEDs in a grid. So yeah, it would be brighter than one.

I'm still waiting for mine originally was promised before christmas, then the coaters were taking a break and it would be first week of january, then this week, now nobody tells me nothin edit: I had to chase up Kyle and he just said it is still down to delays at the ceramic coating place..

For 10+ buyers I can get a group buy of LED dome light replacements for $100 aud, plus local shipping. For R32,33 and 34 (it is all the same). I'm going to get them myself @ full price but I could just order a bunch at the cheaper price. Would there be enough interest? They are available on yahoo auctions at about 10,000 yen. They are available from some overseas places (none in australia) for about 100 usd.

I don't have an R34 nur - so I'd like to change my login name to "moneypit" thanks

My boost curve Look how late full boost is achieved. And look at the slow decline in PSI (back pressure?). N1s should be firing on all cylinders by 4000rpm.

I took it into hitech mufflers today (great shop) and they said I'm a bit out of luck.. if it doesn't tinkle when its knocked and the stainless isn't colored from excessive temps then it probably isn't clogged at least not badly, but without cutting it off there isn't any way to know for sure.

From the pictures, are there four cats or two? are they fixed for the lifetime of the exhaust or replaceable? if they are clogged, would gutting them make the sound weird, or not? how can they be tested for clogged-ness without "cutting them off" (this is what hitech mufflers suggested) and "welding them back"?

does anyone in this topic make decent power @ 4000 rpm? according to tyndago's (probably old) spreadsheet, boosted to the max, stock is good for 250hp @ 4000rpm atw .. that is 180kw. So I'm wondering if anyone close to 400kw can show 180kw at 4000rpm, or to look at it another way, sees 1bar at or not long past 4000rpm .. Street driving unless you're after a speed ticket or a noise violation I think is spent mostly 1000-4000 rpm, I just spent an hour crossing sydney and despite consciously trying, I found maybe two opportunities to hit 5000rpm without looking & feeling like a tool. Ok maybe I look like a tool all the time, but you know what I mean. Street it is mostly about 4000rpm.

Sounds like an aggressive stand, yes. And to be honest, the stance of SAU is clear, they won't host this content. Beyond that, though, the stance isn't clear which is why I asked. It is a bit of a stretch to assume, before such a site exists, that such a place "would allow people to make false and misleading claims". Unless your interpretation is that any end-user written report is by definition false and misleading? In that case, then SAU is guilty of allowing people to make false and misleading claims about nismo, OS Giken, Garrett, HKS and a host of other companies, every single day. Because we frequently post that such and such a product or company is or is not good, and nobody from SAU investigates to make sure the claim isn't false or misleading, or made by a bozo. My reasoning for suggesting the service goes like this: 1. the expressed (by the site owner) reason for this rule is simply legal liability. 2. I think many people would find such a place EXCEEDINGLY useful. They aren't children, just because someone posted, say, Croydon sucks, that doesn't mean that viewers would destroy their business. If there was a site that offered a place to index experiences with workshops the same way we exhaustively compare turbos or brake companies, then the legal liability risk is removed, and everyone would be happy (except the worst workshop). And if this was my project, I'm not sure why it would be ban worthy for me to have it included in my .sig.

In 5 years I'd be seeing if 50% of todays R35 retail price can buy me a new tesla instead. There will always be other more attractive options than sports car of the year 5 years ago.

my original question was asking why it can be so out, and was there an adjustment option (it seems not). It also seems that it being this much off is a rare issue .. the calculation from an unknown source isn't untrustworthy: it is a convenience but exposes the ratios and diff ratio, so I can check it by hand. I'm sure my tacho is out that much. The dyno output might agree with the tacho but that just means that if dynos calibrate via the tech eyeballing the tacho then that at least in my case, that was a mistake. As I said, I'm not concerned about 50rpm errors at idle, who would care? That would be an error of 5% at most. I was surprised to see this apparent 20% error. When I swap ECUs it is going to be the first thing I ask the tuner to verify/fix before they do anything else, how can they go through a tune looking at a rpm vs power plot that is out so much?

absolutely. Like gumtree: no need to take membership to add a review, but verify by email before publishing. A way to upload supporting evidence (pictures, dyno charts, whatever). A way to contact the reviewer privately without giving away email addresses. A way to challenge or comment on a review, promote well written ones and suppress doubtful or obvious hit jobs. and, apparently, offshore hosting and ownership so that the allegedly terrifying libel laws here are less of a liability (although I don't really believe tuners and workshops would be systematically out to abuse the law in order to protect bad business practices). honestly it is overdue that the better tuners/shops/dealers are easier to find than word of mouth and the bad ones can only be whispered about in hushed tones.

I understand that. particularly a site that is out to make a profit.. but it seems for legal reasons SAU is definitely not willing to host any tuner/workshop feedback that is negative so this is why I'd be interested in providing this service, and hopefully members would use it and find it useful. I wonder if SAU would accept paid advertising for it, as a worst case scenario (for me).

If i built a workshop review website, hosted offshore, advertising free, would I allowed to include the URL to it in my .sig here? Would I be allowed to post about it, soliciting feedback?

It doesn't look right to me either. I want to remove mine. is there a stock way of removing it without buying new glass? some kind of stopper for the hole?

Yeah. Buy a simulator. (Phoenix or Realflight) connect up the dongle and your radio, and do the hover exercises until you can do figure 8s and hover nose in!otherwise you'll just keep crashing and buying parts to repair it. Everyone has a different experience but I took months of occasional sim use before I got it all sorted.. read the helifreak forums and watch the training vids they recommend. if your heli isn't a quality one learning will be harder, it won't fly right to begin with!

I got two things which look like child restraints! .... they are also in a box. Wondering if there are intrusion bars now. I didn't notice the mirror because I'm like the italian in that joke: what is behind isn't important. Actually i did notice (that it was convex) but just subconscious about why it sucked until the other day when I realized without concentrating on it hard, everything was double.

"Item: Blitz i-Color, reason: upgraded" What is the upgrade from a blitz i-color? just curious!

Another vote for the nismo, I've been in an evo with a exedy twin and didn't like it (too heavy), another evo with some button clutch and the owner was proud nobody else could drive it. wtf. in my r34 gtr the coppermix feels as I think stock felt in terms of pressure, or close to it. It does rattle at idle a bit. Has a gradual enough bite so you don't sweat 3 point turns on a hill in traffic but supposedly can handle 650hp.