rtune

Please refer to this topic: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/227013-ruzic-engineering-4wd-controllers/ I've one available for sale, never installed, with full manual, CDROM etc. $350 posted

well, rotors don't get fully as hot .. so pad surface temps are going to be much higher than the rotors. The CL pads get good reports from UK users, they used to be prohibitive ($500 per axle) now they are 380 usd... here is a US R35 track day topic on them: http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=41221 well, ok, since the A1RMs are in there, I guess I'll just try them.

Thanks, I already have A1RM all round, but what I don't want to do, as this is a heavy car and has 400kw, is find that I pop off the end of that friction curve.. no disrespect to A1RM intended, but I'm not sure it can be a street pad (no issues when cold, not even any squeal) and also cope with hauling the car down from high speed once every 1 minute? Any comments on the CL Brakes RC6E? perhaps just for the front? it has a flat friction coefficient to 1200c.. i figure the A1RMs on the back wouldn't get the temps of the front so perhaps i keep them, the friction coefficient between the two almost matches at ~0.5

bump

It is a weekend car. More like, one weekend a month. More like, one sunday a month. more time spent on track days (casual) than driving around town. I don't mind having a pad that isn't too great stone cold, as long as it still stops.

If you identify the courier company and book/pay for it, I can fold it up and get it into a largish box for a pickup. Weight is at least 15kg at a guess. Pretty sure size is beyond auspost max girth of 140cm. thanks.

Sorry no shipping, too big! http://carcapsule.com/ I have the 18 foot version. A sturdy bottom sheet and see-through plastic top section joined with a zipper. The inflator fan, and a dick smith 12v plug pack (6w) This thing is too bulky to mail, I feel. $250 text me 0431 332 046

I've a question the regulars in this topic should be able to help. So my R34, with more power than I'm going to reasonably use in anger, is just for the odd sunday and the odd open track day at wakefield or eastern creek. I'm really not up for swapping between two sets of pads. The brakes are stoptech ST-40s on the front, and ST-21s on the rear. what pads should I get that are don't squeal like a garbage truck at every red light ( a bit of noise I don't mind ), and won't fade on an "open track day" and won't eat my rotors up when cold ??

Where can I find a second hand (working, obviously) or new R34 stock xenon ballast? replaced the bulb on mine and it still doesn't light up so I guess its the ballast..

I'm curious, if one is listing a clean R34 for sale are their ANY mods that add value? for example: cosmetic mods (wing mirrors, LED tail lights), sound system, aftermarket coilovers, Rays rims etc or basically if you're thinking of doing a return-to-stock sale, you should always aim for as perfectly factory as you can get ..

Some idiot rolled back into the garage door behind which I keep my car, and stoved in the door (usual metal flip up type), pushing it back at the bottom and smashing my plate, bending the bracket, and making an indentation, from bumper down to spoiler lip. luckily I rent the garage from an ex cop, who tracked them down, & threatened them with the possibility of getting charged with "leaving the scene of an accident". called them up today and told them I would be getting a quote I'd be expecting them to pay, and they start telling me about lumps their doc has found in their tits. You can't make this stuff up! I hate owning a car in sydney sometimes. You can't even be sure it is safe when it is tucked away.

if you are determined to debug this yourself then go search for all the "idle problem" topics here. like google "site:skylinesaustralia.com idle" and then read and read and read!

obviously you have an idle problem, the reason it chokes when parking is the extra load imposed by the steering pump, it would probably also do strange things if you turn off and on the a/c. so concentrate on possible reasons for not having a steady idle, stuff like O2 sensor, an air leak eg in BOV, dirty throttle bodies, idle control valve, dirty MAF sensor. Could be bad contacts on a sensor. anything else wrong apart from idle? eg, when cold, or doesn't have the power it did?

yes it is the fuel pump voltage regulator. It keys off the ECU, and varies the pump voltage according to engine load. Unfortunately it is not able to drive the pump at full load without caving in (which is seen by a big dump in voltage). So instead of wasting money on a new pump, just wire it to negative and you'll hear it is louder at idle, and you're also recirculating a lot more fuel back into your tank too, which might lead to fuel heating issues if your tank is nearly empty and you are in heavy traffic on a hot day. but it solves the problem.

hm, it seems like it is to pep up a more stock type rb26, rather than for a larger application. the price is good though. HKS must have sold nothing during the GFC and are re-evaluating their product pricing.

Does anyone have anything useful to say about this relatively cheap HKS 2.8 kit that appeared late last year? the one that can use stock conrods if you wish. "step zero" I think it is called, and a stock redline of 8000 as far as I know the price is about 400,000 yen. Which is $5k. Plus $? for install. Anyone know what the $? usually comes to..

His third last post on the site explained the failure in detail. "Type of Failure: 98,000kms on the clock, believed the previous owner when he said timing belt was done, but was not aware the tensioner pulleys where still the factory item. Failure on the inlet side tensioner, result was loosening of the timing belt, and jumping of teeth. Guys, these engines re intrusion engines, the valves DO interferre with the pistons. Result was strange. Every single EXHAUST valve was mashed and bent." http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Re...31#entry4699631

It says 505 awhp in the link. And very laggy too .. full boost over 5000? What's with the dyno finishing at 7250 The US has had a witch hunt on for skylines for a while because most if not all came thru that shonky west coast outfit. Seemed like a typically disproportionate response. Some stuff, they don't care. Other stuff they make a federal case out of.

that sounds kind of circular. If you don't want a defect, don't mod it. If you do mod it, then avoid the mods that can be defected. Your friendly local tuning shop can certainly advise where the line is and you can figure out how close to skate to it, or over it.

Great! can I stop lending you my car for your avatar then?

How about black and white?

So I read this blog called Hellaflush that loves cars whose wheels are absolutely flush without a gnats whisker between rim or tire and guard. Lots of pictures. Anyway just wondering.. a newb question. How does that even work? Must they have rock hard zero travel suspension or do the wheels camber up enough to just slide past the guards, or they only drive on glass smooth roads and never do 3 point turns faster than 1 mph .. or what? http://fatlace.com/hellaflush

dunno, all I saw was the youtube clip and laughed.

well, yeah, functional is beautiful in a way. I meant it doesn't have the bling!

it isn't so bad. Not sure about current prices, aud has recovered a lot against yen vs where it was. I expect 6 or 7 k ? and another 2 k more if you want the "step pro", plus (for step 2 or pro) .. HKS cylinders. The hidden expense is having the right tuner, fitting costs (there is a lot of wiring, controller loom through firewall, etc), the probably need for an exhaust cam to match, a more expensive tune, etc. If I was to do it again I'd negotiate a combined cost with a tuner so you know they can fully tune it, and not focus on the v-cam list price so much. It definitely is not like buying an exhaust in a box then worrying about who will bolt it on!