rtune

I got it wrong, it is a type-0 .. sorry displays voltage, RPM and the timer function. will post a pic, make an offer. thanks

I didn't have a problem, I took the compliance paperwork to the blue slip place, and they did a blue slip. They commented on some stuff that didn't look stock but said it wasn't their business. Get a weigh bridge weight ticket before you go as well, otherwise they'll charge to have that done. You can drive the car with no plates, just tell the cops to call the blue slip business to verify that is where you're going. The CTP was a bit more of a pain because the plate was a "TBA". I got a better quote from allianz but commonwealth bank staff have to process it if you don't want to wait for ages to get something in the mail, and they seem a little lost .. for a CTP you just need the compliance paperwork so you can give them the vin number. Then you take the CTP, and the compliance stuff, and the blue slip and the green slip, and a RECEIPT that shows the VIN number and your name and address and the name and address of the business that sold you the car, and the amount you paid, and you take all this to the RTA and if one bit of the paperwork is not right you have to go away again and fix it, it is likely the RTA staff person hasn't done "one of these" before so they drag in a manager. etc. They look for an excuse to bounce you back out. Eg: my receipt was partly in Japanese and that was no good. I've heard they may ask for the car to get an inspection at the RTA place that does this, but they didn't with me, they just handed over the plates and the temporary paperwork for the windscreen until the proper one comes in the mail.

I think it is always worth asking for a discount. especially in this economy. there are profit margins all down the line & we all know the majority of the stuff we buy is INSTANTLY worth between 10% and 30% of what we paid the moment it comes out of the box and is fitted. With the possible exception of three famous big brake kits, and some alloy wheels.. Anyway I did ask, and a nengun person said for a combined order of sufficient size they can do something. Culturally I know Japanese businesses tend to stick to list prices on single items.. but with the yen so ridiculously high vs even the USD, I reckon their trade has fallen off a cliff. They're going to have to do something & soon.

well it was an R34 so it has an MFD and unless the MFD vacuum hose is buggered it should show minimum boost but what is the maximum it can show? Does regular MFD have a lower limit than MFD v2 (which is 2 bar).

I was at my local tuner shop today and saw an R34 with (so far) no gearbox. engine had blown up because owner didn't know it was boosting to 2 bar.. tuner said that another shop and put in a pfc with no attention to a boost controller and sent him out with a tune, and the dash only showed 1.1 or whatever, but it was over-boosting and .. bang .. his bill is going to be in the teens for the engine, and more for the rest .. Does that sound ridiculous?

as far as I know sprockets are identical. You buy one or two, and use them either which way. but what do I know.

I know they have a points program, that isn't really what I'm after. are nengun known to offer discounts on more than one item? Is it better to ask your friendly local tuner to get it at his prices and beat together a better price that way?

I'm tempted to do the illuminated ignition key mod, and the footlights mod .. otherwise I prefer to stay OEM if possible.

PM sent re the GTR key.

can you give me a hint what this is going to say so I don't have to register to find out it isn't applicable?

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Skyline-GTR-200sx-e...%3A1|240%3A1318 It was this one. for $90 .. all those bent fins match up even with the blurry pic

eg, here is the cover and price of the manuals for the 1998 model. http://www.compoutpost.com/store/item.asp?code=SM8E0R34J0 But 1999, 2000 .. screwed.

I don't need trouble shooting procedures because I know what the trouble is .. just without an accurate circuit diagram of the entire loom fixing it properly is difficult. I need the wiring diagram referred to at the end of the list of technical documents attached here. This screen grab came from "bookworks" an australian distributor of automotive books. They said their distributor has no stock. Dead lead.

I spent a lot of time on this and have boiled down my problem to just a few annotated pictures, and a bonus question thrown in. I'm really happy I got this far with just the small amount of material (out of date) available. http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/6682208_Qxgit#426562256_hxX5Q original problem: 4wd, a-lsd and abs lights all ON. No error code. Consult can't scan the unit to get an error code .. because .. basically i need to know how the line I have indicated can have no power.. where is the line I marked (green with red stripe) that goes into the relay indicated, where is it coming from that it has no power? Yes all fuses checked.. Someone must have a recent circuit diagram of R34s. I've tried three skyline tuners and none of them do. The manual exists and is in english/japanese .. The "r34 supplement manual" is insufficient, and out of date. It simply indicates pin 111 goes to IGN, but doesn't show the relay I marked. please help so i don't do a bodgy fix like running a fused 12v line in from somewhere else. That totally fixes the problem. But is very unsatisfying.

I put the wrong link. the overall index is http://209.85.171.104/translate_c?hl=en&am...HEZfCgHg#others and LED tail lights is: http://209.85.171.104/translate_c?hl=en&am...nG04Fj1u8OuwIiA this one is good as well http://209.85.171.104/translate_c?hl=en&am...SY6nrWmYuAYNO8Q intercooler and oil cooler water sprayer!

stock nismo R1 (v-spec ii with R1 conversion), out of the box untuned. It appears to be boosting late, and in a bit of a rush.. (1.1 bar). so a nur engine with hard pipes, modified intake box inc cold air intake, a slightly different cam, plus a weldina exhaust and nismo ECU. (and various other bits largely unrelated to performance).

$75 plus postage or pickup sydney / eastern suburbs. Other harness available elsewhere for ~$20.

Anyone else looked through this site? http://translate.google.com/translate?u=ht...sl=ja&tl=en A whole bunch of interesting mods are listed, marked with R34 or R33 or both, and stars for effectiveness, and difficulty rating. I particularly liked his obsession with hi-brite LEDs, he changed all his interior lights over, he did his own brake lights, he put in his own footlights. Another good one is an illuminated key barrel. As he says, a 5.5m yen car has no illumination for the key barrel? he buys the part for a different nissan then adapts it.. Also cool are how to adapt the LM-1 Air Fuel meter to display a small digital display for the driver, hiding the main unit.. reducing brake noise.. refinishing the b-pillar when it is faded.. modifying the MFD to improve the brightness of the shift indicator and to add a buzzer that you can hear wearing a helmet .. taking off the brake backing plates for improved cooling .. cleaning the AAC valve to improve idle stability .. LED number plate illumination .. installing reverse and front camera (with side-views!) wired to MFD TV display .. on and on ..

Nobody uses rpm/throttle vs boost maps? it is just a dumb marketing feature?

It has flat torque from 1300 to 5000 (2700) but the rb26 can have flat torque from 3800 to 8000 (4200) can't it? just launch at 3800 and you have the bmw 335i bi-turbo, except with 150hp extra at the crank.

yep you're a hero thanks

did you find out how to tune your kmon without inducing knock? does that mean that setup can be transferred to another kmon to avoid that process?

HKS evc VI and i am sure others allows boost maps to vary boost according to RPM & throttle position (a grid). Is there any utility to this? eg if a turbo pair can hold 1.0 bar from 3000k to 8000k, can it do 1.5 bar from 3000k to 5000k ? (after all, 1.0 is half the amount of air being pumped vs 1.0 bar at redline, so there is headroom, and presumably at 4000k the stress to the engine of 1.5 is not nearly as much as it would be at the upper end). could u set a boost profile that was @ X psi flat with throttle position 90% or less, but 50% higher than X till 5000k, only if throttle was floored? I was reading the HKS EVC manual and the feature is explained but the drawback/utility/risks were not explained. edit: as it happens, the evo ecu flash guys are very excited about discovering rpm vs throttle boost maps in their stock ecu .. http://forums.evolutionm.net/showthread.ph...0353&page=9 It seems to be over boosting in the mid range with full throttle..

unfortunately, that is a totally different fuse box need a R34 GTR owner..

I've got one on order from Nissan (takes a long time) .. but can I get a pic of the inside of one (the diagram) off someone's r34 pretty please? and the fuses as well if you can (just to check its the same setup). Mine look like this.