rtune

that is true. the stock NATS module and the stock ECU work together to immobilize the car, putting in an after market ecu means this is disrupted. what isn't clear to me is if someone walks up to a stock car with a power-fc under their arm, and no coded ignition key, if factory NATS is really rendered useless or still can immobilize the car.

With the ignition off I'm looking at the fluid bottle in the back and this is what I see. Is this normal? notice that it is pretty far above "max" and also it appears to be two colors of fluid. This is with ignition off. The manual says "turn ignition ON make sure that oil is within max-min lines on the tank.. if the ignition switch has been turned off for a long period of time oil in the attesa e-ts pro actuator might return to the reservoir tank, causing oil to exceed max line. Be sure to turn ignition switch on before checking oil level. Always use genuine nissan power steering fluid .." (etc) I've got an attesa ecu error of some kind, so perhaps the oil is returning to the reservoir and not being pumped into the system, but why is it two colors like that?

thanks, no I didn't do anything! just hypothetical. the only time I almost melted something was undoing the battery live terminal with a spanner and despite being careful in the limited space it touched a bit of chassis and the zaaap the spanner got warm instantly, luckily I yanked it before it stuck! ok.. without an ecu connected, just looking at the connector, I was trying to imagine a way to test if the loom is operating properly with key on, then key turning off. Just test with multi-meter .. I think from your explanation I can see what is necessary.. with ecu connected it is hard to know what each pin (each wire) has ..

so with the ecu unplugged you should be able to see 12v on ecu harness pin 16 and 58.. and if you ground 16 (which turns on the ECCS relay, listen for a click), you should then see 12v on 49,59 and 109 as well ? Is that a good test?

google nistune, there are pictures of the ecu and more details. But it isn't anything more than a mod to the inside of the ecu. Just a little circuit board that piggy backs the main ecu and supports re-flashing. if you have found other stuff take pictures, post them, google part numbers ..

yeah, shifting: Original reply: nope, you are imagining things, they are different New reply: ok, some parts come from the same vendors Reality: they are the same except for the sticker on the case.

I think that should put an end to the (shifting) defense they are running in this topic.

You can find an amazing amount of answers by using google like this: "site:skylinesaustralia.com stock crank strength" or "site:skylinesaustralia.com turbo rebuild shop" or "site:skylinesaustralia.com rb26 rebuild thread" (or site:gtr.co.uk) I'm not being facetious. I don't know the answers to your questions but I know how I could find them if I spent a few hours. In a day I could probably assemble a pretty comprehensive plan for such a build, just from these types of searches.

From the power fc FAQ, this circuit diagram is the closest I have come to an answer to my query: http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...eccs-wiring.jpg So I understand that IGN on powers up the pfc ecu (or the stock ecu) and, START makes the ECU light up the ECCS relay and the Coil relay: the ECCS relay powers up the CAS sensor and the AFM (engine sensors) and the coil relay lights up the coils. ECU senses cam position etc etc & fires & car starts. What I don't understand is what happens to trigger the power-fc to save state and the sequence during shutdown.. I've seen several posts about in other forums particularly where either the ECCS relay is broken or the wiring loom is wrong or the engine has been swapped (wiring loom wrong) and the save problem is in the power-fc faq. So.. ignition goes off and .. what? the ECU, still powering itself through ECCS, writes all the changes to non-volatile memory, then does _it_ turn off the ECCS relay itself by pulling pin 16 to ground? (which withdraws power to the engine sensors and other pins on the ECU)? is the ECCS relay just a regular relay like any other or is it more complicated inside? If it works as I describe does simply supplying non switched 12v to pin 49/59/109 with an inline fuse, does that allow the power-fc to save its state (although since this would leave power to the ecu always, perhaps it be a drag on the battery). The reason for all this is I have a car alarm that is so knitted into the wiring that it is able to pull ALL power from the ecu connector on ignition off.. I'm faced with a choice - pull the dash and pull out the entire alarm, or solve the immediate problem to get power-fc to save state..

I think the stock rev limit (fuel cut out) is at 8500 so it is quite possible to see the dash read close to 9000 before it stops the fun because I bet it isn't spot on when showing that speed. The MINES ecu was set to 9000 If your ecu has a nistune daughterboard and a tune, it can probably be set to whatever.

Regarding the atessa ecu, the one under the parcel shelf, if the dash shows "4wd" and "ABS" warning lights, and the ecu in the trunk shows _no_ LED, does that mean it is either fried, or has no power for some other reason? In other words - if the dash shows a 4wd warning light, the LED in the atessa ecu MUST be flashing something error or other if it is alive?

Mine is plastic, the only pic I have is of the back piece to it, the part that faces the chassis, it looks like this.. the front piece looks more simple, just a big flat sheet of plastic.. Honestly I'm totally confused at this point, the workshop was trying to tell me one of the diffusers looked like an "old" design not expected to be the one on the car. I am not not sure whether they were talking about the carbon rear one, or the front piece or this piece! paranoia on my part probably. But if they shop didn't bother raising it as an issue, I wouldn't be freaking out.

KL certainly looks sophisticated in parts. But there is plenty of corruption going on, and where the police are compromised the criminal activity is surely higher. If a foreigner gets stopped for speeding he usually has the option of paying a "cash on the spot fine" (wink wink) and the customs officers at the borders are on the take as well. I went over the causeway and was asked to drop a "cash fine" (wink wink) onto the floor of my trunk, because I was bringing an undeclared "electrical good" (a $15 12v fan in a box). If sing $50 gets you a free pass with the highway patrol then i bet $1000 gets you anything you want, any time you want it..

Like this one? http://www.jbskyline.net/R34/GTR/Showroom/...20underbody.jpg I'm being told by my workshop that my front diffuser may have been nicked during import, and replaced with an older design.. (pretty ropey and dirty).

if this is a topic about boost controllers, what is the downside of the HKS EVC V or VI, if any?

I wasn't implying in the slightest that CRD would fudge before/after. But there are many other dynos around sydney.

last week I had my car on the CRD dyno and they didn't strap it down, saying there was no need. Is that normal? & if a car is strapped down does it change the result & by how much? last question: if a shop does a before and after run to show you how awesome their tune is, how can you know whether the before was fair dinkum? is it too cynical to think such things? is CRD a "friendly" dyno?

sorry, I decided I better blank out the plates and haven't got around to it yet.

I thought the odd part was that the GSM thing went off (so they didn't know it was there) - but went dead..

I thought this particular international job was worth reading.. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/107732-my-skyline-gtr-stolen.html

keyless entry or no keyless entry? you mean a magic fob where you stand near the door with it in your pocket and it unlocks for you?

My impression from wading through that topic was that while the car may have been played with by nissan at some point, as it stands now it is more an "expression" of "where they might have gone" if "they had completed" their "development ideas". And a large amount of what it is now is down to bolt-ons and fix-ups by the owner. Or at least that is the impression the topic left me with after I finished reading all the caps lock etc, sorry if that impression was wrong and the SAU community decided differently by the end of it.

what did you do with the two and a half years between "more to follow" and the latest two posts?

the doors appear to lock pretty much as soon as you start driving but I haven't observed it closely.

I'm thinking of new rims for my black GTR r34, anyone looked at the Advan RZ? It is sort of GTR R35 style. I'm thinking dark gunmetal - which looks to be pretty close to black .. the pic is of an R34 with the Advan RS, and not in gunmetal, but was a close as i could find to the look.