rtune

yeah, but I think if they are bonded they become legal. and having a hub on them means their reason for illegality is no longer there (car is not riding on the bolts). Can't imagine getting a defect for it either way though.

I think the ones I'm looking at have their own threads (you bolt the spacers on, then you bolt the wheels to the threads on the spacers).. That just leaves the track rules question, thanks.

I have the "stock" size and offset LMGT4s and "stock" doesn't really fill the guards out. Another 15mm would be good. So I have a choice: sell the LMGT4s and buy new wheels perhaps 18x9.5 or 18x10 with the correct offset ... or buy spacers. So I'm wondering several things: what is the optimal width for handling for an R34? the z-tune has 9.5" I think.. do hub-centric spacers add bearing wear or are they the same as a different wheel offset? are spacers banned from tracks and if so at what level of competition? thanks!

i think I ordered and paid for an r34 pfc for $1350, as you were typing the post. After waiting about 3 weeks for one to appear at a reasonable price damn and double damn.

Once the tires are spinning you are not full throttle, right? it isn't the revs, it is the amount of continuous power output that generates heat. 7000 rpm at average 1/3 throttle is not the same as 7000 rpm wide open throttle. and aren't the rb oil issues mostly related to g-forces? the trust sump is big to avoid oil starvation during high g, baffles in the sump address the same issue.

R.I.P.S has a monster RB30 from a customer order that didn't work out. I asked and it would cost over $50k in AUD instead of kiwi bucks. Candy apple cam covers. It probably goes impressively well.

I'll try the local nissan place, thanks. r34 vs2, and yeah I am sure it came stock with the remote locking / immobilizer. It has a red led in the dash.

If I come back to the car and unlock the doors using the factory fob, I can't start the car, the dash lights up and the fuel pump runs - but the starter doesn't kick. the only solution is to get out of the car and lock then unlock the car *with the key in the drivers door lock* -- then I can start the car. Is there a reset procedure for the factory key / immobilizer? does the key have a chip in it?

So i jacked up my r34 by the front right hard point and noticed when it was on the jack that the drivers door hangs differently. Not by much but enough to make a clack sound on the latch as it closes or opens.. passenger door opens closes the same way however. lower the car back down by that point and it closes normally again. Is there really that much chassis flex/twist ?

great topic and I have a contribution: http://www.oilrecycling.gov.au/directory.html Enter your post code and find out the nearest old oil recycling facility (un-manned). What other disposal methods are there?

I just found the problem. The blue slip place (I'd asked them to replace the oil filter) butchered it getting it off, and in the process broke, or de-attached, the oil temp sender wire or plug ..

Compared to a golf v diesel: Interior light can be left on and it drains battery, it doesn't time out. Car can be locked with second keys in the ignition. Window wiper spray is like a 2 year old peeing, vs a carthorse. When you go into reverse in the rain, the rear wiper doesn't automatically run. When you wash the window, the wiper doesn't do a second sweep 10 seconds later to clear the drips. You can't close all the windows by holding the lock button down. (or open them all) There is no trunk release on the remote. When it rains the wipers don't start When you go into a tunnel, the headlights don't turn on. You can't operate the radio with the ignition off. The doors don't hold open in either of two positions, on steep sydney streets. The fuel economy for just short shopping trips is 25l/100km instead of 5l/100km It is a barge to park and seemingly every bit wants to rub on a curb or speed bump. You can lock the car and get a blinker flash even if a door or trunk is not fully closed. No cup holders, no map reading spotlights, no night-time red cabin illumination. There is no torque at 1500 rpm vs 300nm of torque in the golf diesel. I feel like I'm driving a model T ford. But luckily people who do drive vintage cars smile a lot.

Possibly, but not absolutely, after a flat battery (blue slip place left the ignition on all afternoon!) my MFD displays oil temp as "--" at start and after a drive and, well, all the time. Is that a dodgy sender that happened to go at the same time as the battery, or is this something configurable?

the new one is supposedly very good, and is re-marketed here as the new vi-pec (see other thread) although strangely you can find authorized tuners/dealers for both within australia. edit: and I only rang one place so far but was quoted $2200 for the ecu + install + the tune. More if you want a second tune (eg for jungle juice). More if your car is highly modified.

Well, I called an NZ Link tuner today, and they confirmed that, yes, vi-pec is a link (of course). They didn't want to comment on why vi-pec was masquerading as something new. I smell a story for anyone who cares to dig so basically if you have a link G4 you have a vipec, and vice versa. I don't really get the secrecy. It turns me off the product: if they are want to pretend it is their own unit it doesn't give me a great feeling. So I'll see who can tune Link G4 Xtreme in NSW, it looks like a great product!

thanks, Sorry to continue to be skeptical, but it has the same length and height (to the mm) same processor (same megahertz) same inputs both analog and digital. Same "max rpm", same feature set, although the website is presented differently so it isn't easy to compare. http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-man...g4xtremespecjpg The same connector on the case.. You don't just accidentally develop in parallel the same ecu. It is immensely expensive in R&D and software. Whats the real story here? someone bought the australian marketing rights but wants it to seem like a locally developed product for added zing?

This _is_ just a re-branded LINK, right? so is it the G4 or G4 Storm or ? second question: everyone in this topic appears to be from everywhere but NSW so who in Sydney is ready to put tunes on this (or the Link G4 storm).

i see the bend. I don't like it but I moved my plate up, the rare earth magnets are doing the job of spacers. They are scary things. You can smash a finger if you get between two of them..

Well I got that info off this topic which appeared to be a copy/paste from a specs doc. http://www.gtr.co.uk/forum/17-ferrari-skyline-crossover.html (and they would fit the z-tune power output) but anyway that isn't so relevant to my enquiry as to the differences in the N1 range and what the 'point' of the R1 combo is vs the others.

Can anyone explain what justifies the price difference between the "R1 turbo set" and the other NISMO N1 turbos listed in this page? (sorry that their shop appears to maximise your window). http://www.takakaira.co.jp/part.aspx?SubCa...98-e2758ae781da The "R1 Turbo" is the most expensive by far yet appears inferior in specs to the "GT Le Mans" variant with its 1.6 kg/cm3 max boost rating, and about equivalent to the others, which are all half the R1 price (all in yen). The GT Le Mans (1441-RR581) is what the Z-tune was fitted with! ( Since the R1 turbo pair is what are in my engine I'd like to know a little more about them. I know from the spec sheet they are currently set to 1.1 kg/cm3, thats about it. )

No black paint..I'm summarizing but basically wash with new microfiber, then rinse, then clay bar, then re-wash and re-rinse, then tape up all the trim, then use Xpert 1000 ultra polish then Xpert 1500 polish, then machine pad glaze, then hand Xpert titanium paint sealant and finally a carnuba wax. Somewhere in here obviously also interior, tires and alloys, oh and all the glass which was fairly well covered with the usual plastics out-gassing haze.. its a lot of different chemicals towels, waxes and pads. hard to justify the expense of doing this oneself because of all the crap you have to buy, including the high power light rig etc. I like washing my own car as much as anyone, and can stretch to a wash and a couple of layers of wax on a lazy afternoon -- but not further than that. pics were taken in maroubra ..

thanks, Oh I see, the HDX2 is the aussie name for the DRZ9255 ? makes sense this would be better than any alpine. For that setup I guess I'd do aux in, and an ipod/iphone mount ... and forget about the bluetooth. For ultimate digital sound out of an ipod you have to play the data on the disk through a quality DAC, otherwise you are using the ipod dac .. One interesting possibility is an mac mini carputer, and an USB to audio DAC like this one: http://www.head-fi.org/forums/f5/govibe-pe...-update-290711/ then you get itunes (ipod docked or not) .. perfect SQ with the burr-brown dac off FLAC .. plus all the 'puter stuff. Although the mac carputer software isn't as advanced as the XP stuff yet. In particular navi is weak. But for $1000 or whatever for a clarion, I can see a mac mini, touch screen, and dac being a cost competitive option with a lot of interesting possibilities.

Rodger turned up with all his gear and he spent from 9am till past 6pm on my car.. the paintwork had been washed by idiots during the life of the car so it had a huge amount of spider web scratching all over, and a few deeper scratches to boot. The results were amazing, as he said, "better than new". Check it out.. lightbox: (maximise your window!) http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/6474695_bC3...4137_WadMJ-A-LB gallery: http://www.smugmug.com/gallery/6474695_bC3...410873675_sDvNw He charged $450 which yeah it is steep, but he knows his stuff and gave the car more attention than we expected it would need at the outset, so I think I got a break on the price given the hours he spent. All the trim was taped up first, he removed the spoiler. The whole nine yards. http://www.directautodetailing.com.au/ if you use him tell him you saw the black skyline on SAU. I don't get any benefit from this, just want to thank him for the work.

it was my fourth visit to the RTA in two days and my brain was fried. I took a liking to the colors, ok? .. mostly black.. bit of gold.. really? those covers are on almost every nice car in sydney. Barloworld put one on my golf last service because some parker cracked the last one they also put on. Maybe they are defectable but then I guess the cops keep that in reserve for people they want to piss off! honestly the rear holder doesn't fit the plate, not without HUGE spacers and bolts I'd have to find as well. Over 15 mm out for the spacers, more if you want to avoid the plate edge touching the fender. Cover doesn't wrap the plate, it just clips over it so the plate is no bigger on or off..

I've looked over this sheet and it appears to contain some possibly important things .. such as early oil changes if oil temp goes to 120c ... Can someone check it out, anything non obvious it says that an owner should probably know? I think there is at least one other person around on SAU with the same engine so they can probably use this info as well.. thanks!