rtune

good grief V35s are cheap now! http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...hp?StockID=4661 $15k landed? I should buy it for my brother his trashed commodore, with a wing, drinks that much fuel in a year

I realize he did it, they are selling the part on page 11.. why isn't it possible on the gtr tt? everything is possible ... no? a custom exhaust manifold couldn't combine the exhaust to one then back to split with a vacuum operated flap? sorry I must be missing something fundamental..

from http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=481292 is it technically possible to do what this guy did to his supra? spool up the first turbo then open up the path to the second..

Yeah I don't particularly mind the juice. But your graph while impressive is not flat at all torque wise. It seems the boost comes on hard at 4000rpm (peak torque) sustains it for maybe 1000rpm then the torque rolls off - and rolls off fast after 6500rpm. Reason I'm asking about flat torque curves is this is one attribute always boasted about with good engines. The 135/335 bmw has a very flat/wide torque curve for instance. "absolutely flat from 1300 to 5000rpm". The R36 is pretty flat from 3000 to 6500. Whenever you get flat torque curves the engine is always praised for its feel. Look at the tesla. Amazing torque curve - table top flat from 0rpm to 10k or whatever, trumps its unimpressive max power hands down, makes the car a super drive perhaps because the urge is entirely linear and predictable. Hence the question .. what mods (and tune) support "maximum flatness". how about a weird tune that holds back psi initially, then allows it to rise.. eg boost to 12psi at 3500 but by 5000 its 18psi and by 7000 23psi..

thats a flat torque curve as far as it goes at least -- did you figure out what you have that isn't stock yet? in particular, what your turbo is? maybe I didn't look through your post history well enough but you don't seem very sure!

What mods support the widest, flattest torque curve on an rb 2.6 tt? Or to put things another way, what mods tend to combat torque roll off after it peaks at 4600 or so? there is a long way from 4500 rpm to 8200 rpm, after all, and I see most dyno plots torque rolls off quite dramatically. I'm not asking from the start point of any specific setup, except I already know that increasing displacement and dialing back boost is the easiest solution, wondering what tricks there are for 2.6

It might have a higher knock rating, but it has about 30% less calorific value per cubic mm, which (I think) is why lpg cars are down on torque vs petrol cars with everything else being equal.So *if* you can increase the boost you make some of that back. Petrol cools ("charge cooling") LPG gas doesnt (unless it is liquid injection. Which isn't available in australia yet). With an aggressive tune running rich combats knock. (Excess petrol = excess cooling). No cooling from LPG equals worse thermal efficiency which means down on power, or knocking. If the intake air isn't cold .. even more power loss. I thought this post was interesting: http://gasforum.dridders.de/read.php?4,76920,76969 and these guys have done a turbo or two: http://www.go-lpg.co.uk/Turbo.html but from reading them it seems like injector choice (not just size but speed of reaction) and being able to flow enough fuel is critical. disclaimer: this is just from some time searching other posts elsewhere.

I don't understand the controversy didn't the end of the article contain the verdict: If he is also saying it isn't a whole heap of fun versus a typical supercar then why is that a surprise? which is more fun .. a) flying a biplane b) flying a cessna citation which is "unfathomably good" ?

but what don't get is the hints that there are R35s that can be for road use available or soon to be available for nutty prices (160k), and there is one compliance shop so far that has done the work to comply them. But this advert says flatly that nothing can be done until 18 months after the japan launch date. And if nissan import before mid next year nothing can be done at all, leaving anyone buying one hoping to get a blue slip, in the lurch. how to reconcile those two things?

http://www.prestigemotorsport.com.au/modul...hp?StockID=4647 btw.. Interesting what they say: So the R35s getting quietly listed cannot be complied until mid next year? if nissan are slow?

hey if you like the car you like the car .. that is all that matters! it certainly looks very clean. A more risky dealer is more like a lottery that is all.

"chinatown eddie" and Jimmy, his brother, in australia st camperdown sells to a lot of international students with international licenses and more money than sense. He makes a big deal about how he sources his cars from japanese private sellers but I don't buy it. He advertises as a private seller in carsales.com.au A de-registration certificate I saw listed the japanese owner as "traffic co, ltd" and if you google them up you will find that their japanese page (cached by google) USED to say (in english) that they sell accident damaged vehicles. It no longer says that. I've no idea if that was a source for one, some or most of his cars but it was a red flag to me. Probably an ok place to buy a cheap Delica, but with all the evos s15s and gtr's I'd start from the assumption that the miles are unknown and the car has possibly been repaired from a hopefully minor shunt. If you can get anything on the japanese side in the way of paperwork like the original auction rating, odo declarations, log books and what not then you're lucky .. as has been said in this topic buyer beware. Don't just get the car inspected (if you can find a shop within his mile limit) but ask them to look for wear consistent with a rolled back odo and negotiate accordingly. on the plus side I thought Jimmy was a bit of a character, and he did refund my deposit (thanks mate!). I figure he won't care that this stuff is public as my guess is most of his customers are the "ready fire aim" type and by the time they read this it'll be too late and they probably won't care anyway. For those that do I think getting a car thru j-spec or IMG is a safer choice.

If you do find a car you like, then don't make the mistake I almost made and be tempted by a place that doesn't get mentioned fairly frequently on these forums. If you can't google up some real feedback left over the last 12 months then be extremely cautious. Also, assume the odo has been rolled back unless they can produce japanese documentation showing otherwise.

"Not ready for sale. Please ring for full details and expected time of arrival. " Buyer @ 180k would be a fool the price for complied cars has already been set to be ~160k and thats a big chunk of gold for the compliance shop that will do this -- as the landed price with all taxes but short of compliance is, what, 120k? obviously depends on options the JDM car had etc.

When I did race driving training courses they said the following: In a spin? both feet in. (that means, push down the clutch and the brake and wait till the world stops moving). if you loose control you've lost control: your best option at that point is to get the car stopped asap and that means no gas, just brake and wait. The car will also move in a predictable path that way, giving other cars (and people!) more opportunity to get out of its way.

So Rb26DETTs come with quite a number of different cam covers. Factory R34 has at least two different styles, and then there are the nismo ones, and jap tuning shop cam covers in a rainbow of colors, along with cam cover stickers of various kinds.. Are any of these - apart from gold and stock - in and of themselves a barrier to NSW rego after compliance, or a risk for failing a random EPA inspection later? Are nismo airboxes and cam covers a red flag for inspections the way open pods are? How about omori factory plaques on the firewall? Does the RTA or EPA have a picture of a stock R34 engine bay which they compare, do they dig around for the ECU and look its picture up in a book? How about coilovers or brake kits extra oil coolers, slightly different than stock bodywork? I'm trying to plan for what I need to do post compliance and pre registration in QLD or rego transfer to NSW. Not really keen on surprises and want to understand the process. Most of the discussion I can find is about exhausts, pods, boost controllers and emissions. I get that stuff.

fair enough. What I meant was if u import lots of stock to comply and then sell locally u must take a more dispassionate view of the risks / costs of various shipping solutions than if u are doing this once only and its your own car. I'm sure you are top notch in your customer care.

Yeah i entirely trust the japanese side, I worked in Japan for 3 years and a country that employs geriatrics to clean public garbage bins with spray bottles and toweling isn't going to be dicking around with my car. It is the brisbane/sydney dock side I'm more worried about. As an importer you like everyone else in the industry has zero emotional investment in your cars, as they arrive is as they arrive and they're just tin to you guys. But as a personal import when you see the pictures of how it is right now, getting it beaten up in transit, even a door ding, isn't welcome. I just got a bunch of furniture from overseas that was smashed by sydney dock workers into firewood. They don't give a crap. Your pics are great, the ship is great, they angle it up the ramp. All great. But at the australia end of the business? quarantine? moving them around the docks? hmm..

thanks, I just now figured kiwi was to be avoided, unfortunate they were the first suggestion from my import broker .. roh oh. so a skyline survives non-kiwi ro-ro without losing diffusers or getting chained down in inappropriate places? as for lead foots, how would you know? do you check the odometers before and after?

Container costs slightly more than twice roll on / roll off. Over $3k vs $1500. On the one hand with a container the car can be disabled before shipping, with roll on roll off, there is no guarantee that a wharfie won't take the car and see how the redline sounds when it is cold. Surprisingly, two different company reps of a roll on / roll off firm said that joyrides were "not uncommon".. plus I have to wonder about the bumps and ramps in a roll on / roll off ship.. Anyone with experience with either method?

I think this is BS propagated by the "it must have a downside somewhere" haters. read over this topic: http://www.nagtroc.org/forums/index.php?showtopic=22403 and you come to the conclusion that IF the plasma coating ever needs reapplying it is likely to happen to the cars that have been tuned beyond design tolerances, rather than the production cars used like other typical exotics. 100,000 urban and highway kms is very different than 100,000 track kms or 100,000 change-only-at-redline tuned GTR kms.

10% loss is amazing for a four wheel drive car. an audi geek can tell you their drive train loss especially for auto is about 20%, that turns a 450hp car into a 360hp car at the wheels.

I'm wondering about this.. the new GTR is going to be $140k on the road, and hard to get hold of, and unavailable as a grey market car. I'm wondering why it is obvious that the price to good R34 VS2s will gap down so much. In 2009 where else can you spend even $60k and get as much of a car? even the new Evo X which is barely better than the Evo IX will be close to $80k on road. Sorry to take the sale topic off topic..

Do they quote torque or ps for the F-Sport GT? It is a stroker kit (hence "GT") so has a much flatter torque curve but runs out of puff at 7000 rpm vs 7600rpm for the R-tune. It also appears to be a cheaper option than the R-Tune package. Guess displacement is cheaper than RPM.. R-tune: F-sport gt (Y axis unknown) Anyway I'll shut up now because there is many a slip between this point, and getting the keys.. I better save the pictures because I doubt I can keep it that shiny !! the two pages I can find (not the omori factory) that best describe the two engine packages are: R1: http://www.carsfactory.co.jp/packagecar/bnr34_r1.html GT: http://www.carsfactory.co.jp/packagecar/bnr34_fsgt.html .. there are clearly more engine "bits" to the R-Tune package than the F-Sport GT package and the most important bit: then I can say look, it is stock.

It has an "R1 concept" engine, and S-tune suspension, LM-GT rims etc, so I'm hoping that I'll be able to leave it be! I'm not even sure any tuner locally has any experience with the R1 tune / nismo ecu? the main temptation will be to resist the urge to find a z-tune hood. I just love the look of it.