rtune

It is worth getting a decent lawyer who goes to traffic court regularly, and fighting the suspension if not the fine. Things that count for you: you are 30, not 23. You have a pretty clean prior record, your father was in the car and can write or speak on your behalf (and he has a clean record?) and you have some kind of semi plausible story (wanting to put some space between you and some idiots). And I suppose you have a decent job that would be in tricky to do while taking public transport, for example, your company may have recently appointed you a regional sales manager for which I am sure a boss can write up a nice letter. Unless the judges have been instructed from above to purposely be dicks I think maybe you should be able to get some kind of result that enables you to keep your license. I think that is what a Judge is for, to make sure honest citizens aren't screwed by a bit of bad luck.

If so, please post or PM me - especially if you don't recommend them? thanks

I may as well dump my failure earlier in this year. Very simple, really. Engine was stock, well, stock from Omori factory. RB26 in R34 Failure: oil pump, leading to bottom end bearing failure Reason: Fluid service with timing belt change. Shop did not torque harmonic balancer (damper) to spec, and it worked loose and started to wiggle on the crank at some stage. Car did another 2000km without issue then oil pump let go while on dyno at a second tuning shop. Oil pressure went to zero. No piston, head, valve, cam or sleeve damage visible however bottom end bearing(s) worn.

This isn't really quite the right forum for this question. Pictured is the bottom (sump removed) of an N1 block with R34 crank, when last in motion, it had no oil pressure. how it got that way is an interesting story I can type if anyone is curious. I've posted months ago on it, but basically it involved getting ones timing belt changed at a "tuning shop" in sydney. My questions are the following.. * see the shiny triangles ground off the crank, what are they? * see the oil pump cog, and snout? the snout is damaged and there is molten and solidified metal blobs in the area. The stock damper has a crack in its inner most sleeve as well, I believe that perhaps this whole thing will be difficult to remove (I'd like to look inside this pump to see the undoubtedly fractured gear) How do I remove it? * the bores are perfect, the piston tops perfect, where will I see bearing damage (for my own curiosity)? or where to look for any other damage? remove any pair of bolts pictured and look at the crank or the bearing sleeves? * how do you turn the crank when the block is like this on a stand or whatever * how do I keep this in good shape if I want to wait a while. do I clean off the oil and dry out the water jacket somehow? I said they were basic questions! ultimately I'd be sending this away to get refreshed, but I'm kind of interested in doing some of it myself. Anyone got a brief description of what I would do? for example: remove oil pump and free up crank, remove crank and send it away to get checked or re-machined, Buy new pump & bearings, and re-assemble and torque the bolts correctly and with the correct tools.

What I find curious is the HKS advertising for their v-cam. This PDF: http://hkseurope.com/engine/vcam.pdf take a look at the claimed dyno graph. I'm converting tangomatts graph from KPH to RPM for this comparison and converting japanese PS to KW. for the HKS car (which is 2.6, not 2.8), and running just 1bar of boost, and 2530s at 3000 rpm .. (hks claim 110kw) (this 2.8 100kw) at 4000 rpm .. (hks claim 202kw) (this 2.8 150kw) at 5000 rpm .. (hks claim 272kw) (this 2.8 275kw) So even with 2.8 and 23psi of boost, the 2.6 hks demo with 14psi spools faster and generates more mid range power only losing at the top due to 14psi vs 23psi. HKS list the specs for their car... 264 degree exhaust cam on 2530s and vcam step 1 improved intake, hks cat and muffler, bigger intercooler fuel pump and injector and f-con vpro ... No super special fat exhaust, no engine work. Can anyone speculate as to the reason?

that's an amazing build! Again with the dyno graphs labeled in kph Do you happen to know in 3rd roughly where you get 1bar or 1.5bar of boost? and what is the redline? so, full boost is X rpm to Y rpm in 3rd? (what is X and Y). and last question, your vcam controller is visible yeah, what degrees does it display pottering around and what does it display as you boot it? I've the same vcam so I'm curious. thanks!

Yeah battery. First stage: slow cranking but doesn't fire (computers need juice as well) Second stage: fast clicking like a machine gun, but starter doesn't turn over Third stage: single click

I'm going to take it to tunehouse in a couple of weeks, and see what they recommend.

Pictured are the extra bits, the two tanks, the mounting bracket.

it is a zele car, the original owner had omori do the R1 conversion in 2003. I think if I was in Japan with a mint R34 I'd do the same. For the price you can screw up in far greater style by going to some tuning shop or another. And the car is very much still as tractable as it was stock.

they were installed replacing s-tune, and two different places said I'd have to live with it, Croydon was one of them. but on another forum someone said they cut out rubber from a mat and used that in the mounts somehow! (not flag-r but other Ohlins). Would be a shame to give them up if its just one fix away from being done.

2530s so I think it is 375 kw at 24psi but I have all the original bits so can return to stock some time. driving around like a granny it is smooth and quiet which makes the violence when it boosts even more freaky. ohlins flag-r and they feel great, not hard or bone jarring, despite having 10lb springs. but .. they rattle on the mounts @ the rear, and I'm told that is just the way it is. Not audible when pushing it, just when dawdling around. It bugs me.

Well, pretty much I'm done screwing around with my v-spec ii r-tune. I've only a few more niggles. You can see the missing center caps for one. I need a new battery. I'd like some coilovers that are up to Ohlins standards but are quiet. Any recommendations?

Snow performance water meth kit with optional shut-off solenoid. controller triggers on MAF signal or Boost, your choice. 1) Stage 2 (part#20010): retail usd $475.00 2) Safe Injection (30020): retail usd $205.00 3) Safe Injection Wastegate Solenoid (30100): retail usd $60.00 4) larger tank (usd $60) yours for $500 aussie Bought on a whim, not fitted. See pictures. (tanks & part 30020 not pictured)

"918598 - STREET: R33 & R34, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP All Pulleys are in OEM locations. Power steering pulley is 15% underdrive, alternator and water pump are 5% underdrive. A 10mm shorter belt is required for power steering pulley. Damper shell and pulley are aluminum with steel hub." $600 NEW IN BOX NOT OPENED. thanks.

beautiful Midori front pipe, 80mm, almost unused. Welded inlets for sensors added. reason for sale: had to change exhaust back to nismo, which has its own custom front pipe. $600 see: http://www.midoriseibi.co.jp/tuning/others...front-pipe.html

my manual says that ETS F/S VALVE has several fault conditions: * valve control terminal voltage is abnormal (open circuit) * valve control terminal voltage is abnormal (short circuit) * when fail-safe valve is being controlled to OFF it turns ON these are the only ETS VALVE related issues. a lot of these error conditions they light up both ABS and 4WD and the whole system goes into failsafe mode. later in the manual, the "valve" is referred to as a solenoid: the "e-ts fail-safe solenoid" and perhaps the ecu no longer has a good connection to it, or the solenoid is burned out. Did you look at your atessa ecu after a drive of 30kmh for a minute then stop (not engine) and find a LED flashing on the atessa ecu in the trunk. Long flashes are 10s, short are 1s. Code 12,23 might be long,short,short .. long,long,short,short,short ... depending on the code(s) flashed, you can find further things to check..

I'm trying to find out. I hope they didn't just reset the TPS, which they should have done ages ago, and are blaming something else to make it seem harder!

problem allegedly solved! was TPS voltage not correct at the atessa ecu.. causing wacky behavior, but no warning lights.

can't help you further, one tuning shop I went to didn't install it right. Second place couldn't program it right, final place, an HKS dealer, seems to be on top of it.

the manual is confusing and it is better I think to find a place with the software that can program the boost controller. Unless you have a particular issue it is best to set it up with a target boost rate - and switch off all the various mapping modes it has. The initialization procedure is very important as well. If that isn't done right it won't behave right.

new rims are same size, 18" and 265/35s instead of 245/35s. I think 9.5J or 10J ..

On an R34 gtr .. After a clutch swap, atessa under load is pushing power to the front then removing it, and cycling back and forth like that -- creating a bad feeling on the road under boost. torque meter shows it pushing power to the front. There are no warning lamps lit. ECU has been changed over, no difference. The atessa fluid has been changed twice, and bled several times.. G-sensor checked for correct voltage.. anyway, g-sensor wasn't disturbed. I believe each of the 4 speed sensors have been checked, or are being checked. Since there is no 4wd warning light, there are no error codes to scan for.. On the dyno, the problem isn't really noticeable. Just on the road. Any other ideas on what it could be? what to check for? Also changed: rims (just a bit wider), new tires (same profile), new brake kit (was working ok after brake kit swap, I think). And lastly, more power. But not a shedload more power.

It is new ! Opening it for a picture devalues it !! it is at the tuner, he can send it anywhere on my instruction.

"918598 - STREET: R33 & R34, P/S, A/C, Alt Up to 500HP All Pulleys are in OEM locations. Power steering pulley is 15% underdrive, alternator and water pump are 5% underdrive. A 10mm shorter belt is required for power steering pulley. Damper shell and pulley are aluminum with steel hub. Be sure to check your crankshaft for roundness. If it is equal to or more than .001" out of round, you will need to adjust for proper damper press fit." $650 shipped out of sydney. If you want something faster than regular parcel post then pay the extra. NEW IN BOX NOT OPENED. thanks.