rtune

I guess the surprise inside was why the engine was $3500 USD ? "I got everything for 3500 bucks, which, if you know anything about pricing of the GT-R engine, that's a steal."

twin low mount (replaces stock) coated. Not used, turned out I had N1s anyway so stayed stock. see pictures. looking for $900, cost $1300+ can ship, at buyers expense though. Out of sydney. Pickup also ok.

Do solid top mounts make a lot of noise on an R34? no getting around or away from it? noise like .. at 30kmh on a normal road with some typical but small bumps, it will sound like a chunk of metal is rolling back and forth in the trunk? but no audible noise from the front? enough noise that any passenger not familiar with motor sports is going to tell me my suspension sounds broken?

bump. $170

These are new, unused. Please buy them for $180, shipped to anywhere, I'll pay shipping by regular parcel post. Out of Sydney. pictured are two. Of course you get four. Willing to split, two for $90 is also ok.

It was on my SMH RSS feed, which is why I saw it... but when I went to the link, the story was "not found". would be nice if fairfax tried to squash the story ..

http://www.news.com.au/story/0,27574,25776693-421,00.html Kind of funny. Lets see what happens. If it was one of us, they'd tear up our license on the spot. but this guy is establishment, and his job probably depends on having a usable license.

Same set as the one sold here.. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...34-t270423.html price is $1100 Shipping at buyers expense. Out of Sydney. Came off my imported R34, great condition, Mine include tool that you use to set the 5 click settings and some 2003 paperwork/manual as well. They only did 25,000 kms after install, I know that because on the same date the car got a nismo dash. Nothing wrong with the ride or handling when they came off but I replaced with horrifically more expensive Ohlins because I have some psychological disease that can't leave something good alone.

Sold pending funds.

new, un-used, never installed, no petrol through them, still sealed .. etc with o-rings. 6 of them. not willing to sell 4, at this stage. Asking $800 inc shipping from sydney

Correction this is a GANADOR not arc. Sorry for any confusion, one ti exhaust looks much like another.. carry on..

I un-filled it, thanks. I'll PM the shop it is at, you can take a look at it, but it is new. Maybe with a small amount of soot on the inside.

I got this from Japan, via import monster and so on. Asking what I paid: $1500 AUD after duties taxes fees shipping etc etc. 90mm to rear muffler. All ti. Very light! great sound or so says my tuner who witnessed it. Currently at sydney tuning shop who can send a picture if I ask them nicely. but it looks like this: http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/viewimager..._Titan_Silencer Test fitted only. Not used because went with custom exhaust at mucho $$$

water suppresses detonation, which as avoiding detonation and being able to advance timing is the objective of a higher octane rating, so water seems just fine to me .. yeah so a mix or pure meth is more hardcore, but nothing wrong with water. the trick is getting the atomization right, and getting the quantities right for engine load, boost pressure, and so on. WMI kits are scary simple: a nozzle like the kind you find in a greenhouse (or two) and a pump, of the kind you find in a motor home. And a controller. And a lot of tubing between the nozzle and the pump.. compare that to a fuel injector that can pulse a precise metered quantity of fuel to the millisecond.. so I reckon no matter what, there will be places where you are misting too much, or misting too late, or misting too soon. None of this might matter but it getting the setup working right and then taking advantage of it with a tune is an inexact science.. if you get it right there are amazing gains to be had, similar to the gains if you got a specific 110 octane race fuel tune. But then remember you are out on a limb should the injection cease at full boost, you get detonation all of a sudden..

put the money on the fuel pump toward an oil cooler.. stock fuel 34gtr pump is quite ok. 550cc would be ok then they can be nismo. metal gasket. stock intercooler is fine. no need for hard pipe kit.

it is wherever you can hear the click sound a few seconds after you turn off the car ..

this topic confirms what I was told.. if you have a high powered RB - and especially do track days - then there is no good cat solution and when they go bad it might not be immediately obvious they have gone bad. basically none of them can withstand sustained blasts of 800 degree exhaust for long.

Go eat at Wagaya, right opposite entertainment center, on harbour st. Up some stairs. Very nice vibe inside and touch panel ordering screens at each table. Japanese pub food, but pretty authentic and covers most bases. Pressing the picture of a draft beer, and it arrives within 30 seconds. As if by magic. No need to figure out what to get all in advance. No need to talk to a waiter/waitress except to thank them for how quick the service is. You can spend a lot there because it is fun and easy and all the dishes are small but cheap but geez nothing like tetsuya's ..

exact same thing happened to my gtr, and I lost the bottom end because of it. "tuner" in sydney with known workshop, with his own skyline, does a timing belt change and oil service (my instincts were telling me not to give him more work) and he didn't install the stock balancer right, or damaged the whole thing getting it off and on. Result was a short time later on another tuners dyno the oil pump fragged and took out the bottom end.. stock balancer was found to be welded to the crank, due to heat from it moving around slightly all the time. Metal powder, burn marks, and so on and so forth.. Racepace tell me that they see it all the time. Don't let anyone touch your engine that doesn't know the exact why and wherefore of this issue, and can explain to you the sequence of events in gory detail..

maybe so, or however it is fastened was leaking, and the act of replacing it solved that problem. I'll be keen to take a look at it, to see what might be visible.

it is obvious if the pump is run off a voltage regulator (fuel pump reg) and pump can't maintain pressure.. as the boost climbs at some point the pump draws too much current and the voltage regulator (if there is one) browns out, and the fuel pressure in the rail falls off a cliff. and yeah I think the standard fuel regulator is fine, just an adjustable one gives the tuner more options.

I don't know anything about the stock system for GTT but I can tell you that a stock GTR R34 fuel pump driven directly from the battery voltage (or rather, from the alternator), is more than capable of maintaining pressure & flow on the stock fuel rail and thru the stock fuel piping, with an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator, to at least 380kw worth of fuel facing 1.8bar in the plenum. At least, that is what mine did/does. that is the stock R34 pump, not even the nismo pump or any of the commonly mentioned in-tank pump upgrades, let alone external pump setups. injectors are a whole other thing.

Success! turned out that the trust BOV type-r fixed it .. the stock bov leaks at 19psi+ Now it can hold flat at 25psi, and is doing over 380kw at that level so we're done, (but it will need the big exhaust). Who knew.. Stock bov can't handle the pressure...? I wonder if it is in poor shape, don't people post that the stock gtr bov is usually fine? I thought after-market bov's were just bling, or for huge hp. so the summary of mods are: racepace (but stock) engine and head, with just oil mods/big sump stock intake plenum and n1 manifolds apexi intake (will have to be airboxed) greddy intercooler 2530s, midori dumps and downpipe trust bov, spitfire coilpack big exhaust cam (made more midrange), v-cam intake cam fat exhaust hks evc f-con vpro big clutch

may have to try this because the jury just returned a verdict with the new patented design "invisible exhaust": "330 kw and 23psi midrange .. but boost falls off after 7500rpm .." so .. the actuators (although why if they can hold 23psi mid range do they not hold that at the end, what is the difference from their perspective?) or a boost leak either through the stock bov or the piping (although, again, what is the difference between 8000rpm and 5000rpm from the perspective of the bov or the intake at constant psi) maybe this head doesn't flow well, after all .. not flowing enough air is definitely a cap to power (and therefore boost). Or the stock coilpacks?

inlet is a vcam, and exh cam gear was adjusted, if I had more ability to ask intelligent questions about the cam or tune I'd be trying to do the tune myself! yeah well now I have two plans to ask him to try.. open boosting, and drop the exhaust.. one or the other.. both seem like 20 minute experiments to me. Thanks. not keen about mucking around with more aftermarket crap. Getting tired of it.