rtune

boost controller: latest HKS. It has compensation programming to keep things flat if necessary, but can't cope at 7800 when the boost just dies in the ass if its heading for north of 19psi. current exhaust: ganador ti, 3.5". I suggested trying something else super loud, but they couldn't source one to try, all the available ones foul on the rear diff. He didn't want to free boost it, he was scared. haha.

yeah, so Ben tells me.. says 375 should be easy and even 400 with more tune work. but the exhaust is critical. my tuner is skeptical and I feel is trying to end his bleeding by selling me on ending the job here. last thing sydney tuner said was that maybe the head doesn't flow enough.. and he wants to try trust type r bov..

I've an engine from Ben @ racepace on 2530s., with the included actuators.. Car won't hold more than 19psi currently, at which point it punches out 310 awkw I think it should go to 25psi or so and would like to see that. Things tried: * remove airbox (got to 310kw, but, no more boost) * pod filters (ditto .. and currently installed) * big exhaust cam (holds boost better at 19 but no more power) * remove cat (no more power) So at this point we're thinking of running the car sans exhaust to see if that eliminates the problem. Just to see. If so, I'll be a customer of a custom exhaust. I think it is really close to being done, but can't take it if 19 is the limit, I'd feel the 2530s are being wasted. But before plunking down that $3k for an exhaust, what else could it be? And, a supplementary question. Is the racepace dyno a 2wd only? what does a car there do on unfriendly 4wd dynos elsewhere? (this is the excuse from the tuner: car is great, you'll see much higher than 310 on a 2wd dyno, or croydons dyno). I want to know that to calibrate my expectations, so to speak. But mainly .. is the problem most likely to be back pressure? This is what Ben says it is, but he doesn't have the advantage of seeing and touching the car although damn I wish I'd started with him in the first place.

http://www.7tune.com/nostalgic-car-show-2009-common-snapper/ The clean 240Z with the RB26 in the front, the R33 dash inside, the door poppers, worked suspension, fuel cell and ICE. All in one package. Anyone in australia? What kind of budget if you brought the car and the engine? Just curious. I'd kill for that kind of car in my garage. Nostalgic yet packing a punch. "The concept was simple. Build a great looking all round Z that can be thrashed around the track all weekend but still be civilized enough to take to work the next day."

The stock (branded) japanese exhausts often have the right tip and pipe spec but the single rear muffler is really restrictive. What is the point of paying for a 3.5" exhaust that looks the goods when inside the muffler the air-path is more narrow? of course you can get around that with a loud muffler but then you're over the legal db limit both on track and street at full bore. The only good exhaust has two mufflers, and the 3.5" path front to back for sub 400kw or 4" front to back for over 400kw. And the 3.5" or 4" path must also not get chopped down where you can't see it, in the mufflers. Without that there are problems making higher boost or making the expected power at the lower boost leading to all kinds of expenditures on things that don't solve the main issue: breathing. If you know of one like that that has a japanese brand name on it, I'd like to hear about it!!

way late to the topic .. Here is what a tuner - who gets probably the most respect on SAU judging from others posts over the last year - said to me this week in regards to stock but prepped (for oil, sump pickup, etc) rb26s .. "Crank will do over 600kw @ wheels...yes, we have tried Rods will do over 450 @ wheels... tried that too. Most track failures are usually tune related or oil/water temp induced." so there you go. I believe him that problems with stock parts are not the headline power figures, but the possibility that goes hand in hand with those: that the car is being abused either through a dodgy tune or driving on through high temps .. which induce detonation which cause failure which in turn can be easily blamed on "stock rods" or some such. so if your tune is good and the temps & oil are under control it doesn't matter what the boost is, up to and including 400 awkw ..

Sold to you, pending payment. thanks.

Up for sale is a GTR gear knob. The leather is in very good condition, the metal insert appears to have been polished the red paint in the R is as new. $120 inc shipping

so your wife is going to ding it in the carpark, multiple times, and bingle the door by parking too close to someone at the mall, and your kids will kick the seat backs and fill everything with food fluids and god knows what? if your family is anything like mine which is why what I want (RS4 wagon, R36 wagon, etc) isn't what I will allow myself to own!!

as far as I know it is any RB26. R32 thru R34. It looks identical to a stock pump in terms of housing, just a better impeller.

Brand new in box, as purchased from nissan $250 including free shipping part 21010-24u27

I've listed them on a certain auction site, 10 day listing, and I've priced them there at $2900 feel free to search for it, there are only two sets on the whole of that certain auction site. I'd rather sell them to a SAU member though, and would accept a little less.

Didn't croydon recently turn around a bog standard nur with N1s and power fc and very few other mods, for 350 awkw? that is, what, 470 horsepowers? isn't that high 400s? if I remember, poster said they boosted to 1.5 then tailed off to 1.3 bar.

My N1 with 2530s has just had v-cam added, although I'm using the f-con cpu not pfc. I'll PM the tuner I used, maybe he has a clue. I do know it is run by oil pressure and the better the oil pressure the faster it reacts. That is all I know though, but maybe your tuner can ask mine, if they help each other out like that.

I'm trying to bone up on old skylines, their desirability, value, and so on. any comments on the one in carsales? http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/privat....aspx?R=6870753 obviously not a 1980, a '67 SE3 with triple webers.

An old mercedes perhaps. Convertible. Although on second thoughts .. they are too heavy.

Anyone can run a business like an ahole, never giving an inch, always assuming the customer is wrong (his T&C make that attitude clear), and laughing once the submit button is pressed and the money is safely in his a/c. but to me it is a bad business. If he can find people who don't care how they are treated, all power to him. But I will recommend anyone sane first reads his T&C carefully and asks themselves, with that attitude, what happens if the product is actually found to be defective.. how likely is it he will make things good. When I told my tuner what his reply was, their response was normal, I think: "WTF?".

I'm idly wondering whether one day I'd buy an 80s car and fit an RB26 into it. several reasons: weight, uniqueness, RWD, and complete surprise (sleeper value). so what models are great candidates? I've read of a 318i that took an RB26 as a race setup. Two years and an awesome result, but was done as a hardcore track car. The engine bay looked a little cramped though. Then there is the rips 240z. I'm sure a more streetable 240z with an RB26 would be great fun. so what else, apart from vin diesel's dodge charger. edit: eg http://videos.streetfire.net/video/VW-Scir...DETT_210630.htm rb26 in a vw sirocco.

just to spoil the party on the grave of the OP, I'll not buy from CJ Motors again. Jacky advertises ATI dampers on ebay, and I contacted him and bought it direct, asking if he could express ship it (he could not, only australia post). Fair enough. I got it, and the same week asked if I could return it, un-opened, for a credit if I paid S&H and I even said a restock fee would be ok, as I'd suffered a huge setback and this would be a big help. After all, it was UN-OPENED so it costs him nothing but a few emails. He lists his stock as 10, or whatever, it is a commodity, he isn't selling Faberge eggs here. He ignored the first contact, and in the second, just flat out refused saying, in effect, tough titties mate. I would copy the email but it barely qualified as english. A few emails later, after I explained that a little bit of customer service would go a long way, he hadn't budged an inch. He spent far more time writing get lost replies than he would have accepting the return, incrementing his stock count by 1, and refunding less S&H and a fee. His ebay auctions, by the way, state "Return policy not specified. Read item description for any reference to return policy." (there is none in the description, of course). His personal site lists an extensive amount of legal boiler plate in equally fractured english that I can sum up as basically: don't try to return anything for any reason, if it doesn't work & if you breathed on it, touched it, bolted it on, used it, or in any way handled it, you've got it forever, it is your fault that it is broken. If it is perfect, you can't return it either. And in all other situations we don't accept returns. And if you change your mind before we ship, tough luck, and if you refuse to sign for it or bounce it, tough luck, and in the (non-existent) case where we do accept a return -- you have to pay a 25%(!!) restock fee. So basically he is yet another example of how sh!thouse customer service is somehow acceptable to the car modifying community, in any other field a business would go under acting this way. His only redeeming feature is he is cheap. Which wasn't why I went to him, the distributor was waiting for a new shipment.. But IMO I'd rather give the 5% to a real business, not some guy with the customer service of basil faulty, a garage load of boxes he doesn't stand behind, and an fleabay storefront.

agenda much? they pretty much invent their own drivetrain loss figure to meet the expectation setup at the start of the video that nissan is lying about engine power output as it is the only way it could be beating cars with higher power to weight ratios.

Why do you need to budget for a new computer? nothing wrong with a PFC. but you probably need bigger AFM.

Anyone would like my spot at the oran park track day next wednesday http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Or...ay-t259865.html please PM me. Full price $200 take it for half price..

A Nismo 400R came 4th .. so an R33 and R34 in the top 4, with the RX7 and M3

Is your pump still on the FPCM circuit? because what FPCM does is vary the ground in order to vary the available current to the pump, so that at low RPM the pump isn't working very hard. This works great with stock but at higher boost and injector and fuel rail pressures, the pump draws more current. When it starts to need more than the FPCM can deliver, the car will lean right out, the measured voltage over the pump will suddenly dip.. if you direct wire the pump to the alternator, it'll get 14v, not variable power, and do the best it is ever going to do.. it'll also be one less point of failure.. Racepace told me this week that the stock GTR pump is good till over 400kw, when hardwired. He also said they have been unable to pick any significant difference between the nismo pump and the stock pump, the suggestion being that if the stock pump isn't good enough, you're going to need a more elaborate fuel setup rather than just fixing it with a nismo pump.

I expect it declines because N1s stop producing power at the top end over 1.3bar or so, your car is going to 1.75bar at boost onset, then declining down to the best the N1s can manage. Is there a boost controller in the mix as well?