Craved

nope, rear one is for IAC and goes under the plenum. you'll have it there

there will be a big hole under the plenum for the PCV dave, just a bit back from the opening on the covers, factory S pipe should work to link them also.

Just make sure they are 1A supplies Duncan, noticed alot of items wont work with less charging amperage.

thanks guys i did search jaycar - and the one you linked Duncan was what i went looking for - should have taken the bloody number with me will call em and get em to search if they have them - those damn parts bins are always disorganised lol i saw the first 2 you linked titan, neither would work - easpially since the female only has thread and the nut is on the male part.. wait ... what?? lol also order in some mini USB chargers that sit flush with the cig lighters - i'll be hard wiring them and mounting them flush in the area the cig lighter used to be . never use the cig lighter and saves me from having adapters in sight, just plug the usb cables into the facia direct .. lets hope that works too haha cheers

spent some time this afternoon on the car, hooked up the PLX wideband sender and guage as a temp item to test it out and check the idle AFR's hooked up the datalogit and started it up other than not sitting in the pfc's normal idle cell of 2x2 it was sitting at 11:1 AFR, so i tweaked it enough to run 14.6- 15.5 range - Then it was still hunting badly at 65 deg water temps, so i initialised the unit and ran through the 30 min idle learning - its is better now but will still hunt after you blip the throttle then settles down and stops it after 10-15 seconds. so atleast i wont be killing the new 100cell cat from running stupid rich on idle. waiting for a 52mm guage holder to arrive in the mail so i can mount the display and then go for a drive. also been looking around for a way to mount a female USB port onto the dash area beside the glovebox, so i dont need to have the SM-AFR and the Datalogit boxes exposed in the glove box.. still havent found any product that will allow me to panel mount a female USB port so if anyone has ideas i'd be happy to hear it.

awesome news mate - wasnt sure if the plenum was a bit more matte from that pick up there lol

cheers Dave gotta wait til its dry to drive the car around to get the brake bias tested out, i think the rears are grabbing before the fronts so might need to install a wilwood bias adjuster

wiring is different from GTST to GTR for the blinkers - luckily enough i have some of the wiring left from the wreck i bought and, the parker light plugs from the GTST match the GTR globe holder plugs, so cut them out - solder and some braided sheathing they are installed and functional

Nope - organised through Jesse Streeter to get me one through nissan japan. crazy cheap - ie less than 50% the nissan AU quoted price oh, these just came in from the UK BAI BAI trailer lights

remove rear wheels and disks 10mm bolt on backing plate unhook cable from brake pad linkage 10mm bolt on subframe holding cable 2 mounts on trans tunnel 2 bolts on lever itself so yes you need to get under there to replace it

are you trying to convert to 5 stud at the same time?

go to a bearing place - should be C7218 for the seals or Dayco KS94 for the 3 pack with lubricant

I always used RB74 front and rear, with the DB4000 front rotors and never got brake fade at wakefield. not sure what coices i'll have to make with the new brake setup

awesome, cheeers mate $309.55 from local nissan - ex japan

yeah i just sold my spare with the gearbox attached too ....

oooh ohh another thing, exhaust backpressure if it occurs will cause your dipstick to mimic a bullet once crankcase pressure builds up - it is easy enough to test the back pressure but its probably something you'll need to ensure there is none throughout the rev range at the point you input the breather tube though im sure you already knew this lol

wanting and having the means to do are different things though unfortunately. re: oil/air separator - at what temps does oil burn? there must be a point along the exhaust where the oil vapour would not turn to ash and simply burn off and carbonate at a later stage under longer periods of load (ie track day) are you running a catch can along with the separator? im guessing not since you have no more room left lol - just thinking in terms of a cat bearing road car.

they didnt have catalytic converters back then though either - any chance of issues with unburnt oil gumming up the cells? p.s. love the effort you're putting into this - gotta love being able to make shit for yourself

yeah dave, i had to go back in to get the hicas out now i have to go in again for the airbag .. sigh lol yeah michael, i was tempted to rip apart the sender unit and see whats inside that could cause the problem - but then it would have to stand still til i fixed or got another one - so i'll find a replacement then tinker

try a continuity test on the -ve line of the injectors to the earth/chassis - if that happens with the ECU off then you have a wiring issue

swapped with a s1.5 and it worked on a s1 - so im gonna go with interchangeable i have fast on a crashed HDD, just gotta find a way to re-install windows over the top of the existing install - cant find my CD with fast on it

r33 speed sender if you can

Its the sender lol - swapped it out with my daily's sender and work straight away. heard a rumor that nissan dont sell them anymore ....

yep - if it gets real low and suck in air blleding process is to swing from lock to lock 10 times or so

ahh ok, looked thicker on the flange plate. Just did some 10mm alloy to 3mm sheet during the week and it was a hassle lol