Craved

so your getting 3 seperate pieces? if so looks alright, the side vents are too far forward for my liking in that pick.

ouch if its true damnit Joel, change your Av i keep thinking your Roy

yeah i used a spare fuel rail and injectors i had to check they were firing. is any fuel coming out of the fuel pressure Reg when your trying to start it? also if the fuel spits at you when you take the hose off the FPR then the lines are around the worng way

Simon, from watching when my car was sprayed, there was no hardener in the 2K PPG paint i used, but they still allowed 15 -20 mins flash time between coats (in a booth) so i doubt you will need to get right into the clear straight away. dont forget to Strain/filter the paint. and clean the gun between coats to make sure it doesnt fould up and ruin the job. as for respirators, not sure, but you might wanna get a disposable overalls to stop the paint getting in your skin (its carconegenic sp?) airborne contaminates mostly come from the painter - so the overalls will help reduce this, vaccuum the area your painting in after the car is in there and the plastic walls (you should use) are sealed once vacuumed you might wanna prepsol the car to clean anything that was stirred up. No pro info there, just my ideas and observations. Chris

i would be doing a small pilot hole from underneath once you have marked them, then swapping over to the top side with the larger drill since it will splinter a bit where you push through

hahahaha

David - you get this done without issue to your paint? how much, and where is he at in NSW?

hahaha its not THAT bad .. i think - will swap mine over tomorrow and see what it does had mine at 0.6 to counter the old std coils - but got splitfires in now and did swap to the new ones i got... yet

Ed, do you have an alarm that could be interfering with the injector pulse from the ECU ? sounds silly, but an option to look into, as when i coverted my shit box lancer to manual i changed over to the manual ECU - but didnt work, spent forever tesing it to find the injectors not spraying - turned out the the chip runs from the ECU and this is the fuel cut - swapped to auto ECU and worked

Hey Shell/Ash can someone pass the password for the mod section along please. Cheers

thats more than likely trua and something that has already been discussed in the Forced induction section. the modifictaion to the AFM would require you to create a boxed section one the side of the inlet pipe and im assuming that it would require it to be on a straight section too to ensure the flow is even through the meter. be some fiddly work to get the mounting threads welded on to keep the unit flat inside your box.

thats pretty much all it would take, however i would personally have the vent tabs UNDER the skin of teh bonnet then after taking the underside of the overlap on the skin sanded back to metal, fibreglass the 2 pieces together . FB adheres to bar metal without issue. then once secure you just use a very small amount of bog/putty where the 2 pieces meet on the top of the bonnet to mould into one fluid piece .. This way there is no Rise in the bonnets lines until the actual vent comes into place.. stops it lookig like it was just stuck on. post some pics of the vents you want and we may be able to provide more specific ideas on this moulding process.

could always get a front facing plenum to help with it

ummm BCPR6ES are NGK coppers no one is saying get irridiums.

Please be more specific in what you would like to do or this thread will be moved. The fabrication section is for questions on how to make something, or showing the process and results of something you have made. adding fibreglass sections to your existing steel bonnet can be done, as for trying to convert a 180 bonnet onto a skyline .. could be done but be very difficult.

Plug could be fouling at idle if it is set too cold -- say a 7 or 8 heat rated plug will do this

Anyone know if the return line to the bottle will have enough pressure to go to through a trans cooler infront of the rad then up to the resevoir? i think it does as i once started the car with the resevoir off and sprayed everything with trans fluid LOL just trying to confirm

heat rating of 6 is the norm

what heat rating are they?

gimme? hahaha i wonder where you buy them from

Stan . sounds like you removed the Hicas computer too

ahh ok, i need one of them lol

whats this battery bypass?

thats alright bout the pics, i will be making one of these myself to run the other way - flow from 4" to twin 3" to run a 2nd exhaust line to a 2nd rear muffler as my car i way too loud atm. i think i will need to make a lot of mods to the piping to make sure the split is even and smooth.