Craved

116 degrees is way too hot - was this at a track day? looks like you need a radiator flush or a bigger alloy one

Wazz, Could you show me some more pics of the twin 3" to 4" reducer please mate? did you make this yourself or purchase it?

Was it the Diff or the drive shaft that broke? since they are independant, the diff seperates from the drive shafts..

i'd be checking all the bushes on the front suspension arms for movement as well.

I got my cam covers polished in penrith for $75 a side this was however only the parts visible with the valley cover in place .. so from the bolt holes on the inside down is not done

legally you should retain teh reo bar. however, i have installed one of these on a 32 - removed the reo bar then welded up a brace to bolt to the bonnet latch support to the IC then had tabs to hold the kit up between the lights.

only option would be to take your hinge off and take it to a hydrolics/gas strut place to have them make up a custom one to suit. as for the boot opening more, i dont think the hinge unit would allow you to open it further

are the injectors pulsing? need an LED test light to check that they are earthing out have you pulled a ignitor and plug out and crank it to confirm it sparking? if it is, get a timing light and make sure the CAS is setup for the correct timing - 15BTDC i believe

Nepean Engines in Penrith. took the crank to them, 2 days later got it back with new bearings and lynished . i think though that the mains are another brand not king come to mention it, as he said that the main force is on teh big ends not the main bearings, this is for a 300rwkw power goal which he knew about.

Easier? i can understand the want for adjustability, but if im not mistaken the R31 has not got double wishbone suspension, so adjustment can be fine tuned via a strut top adjuster rather than a lower control arm modification.

Find a trusted engine machinist to lynish the crank, then find bearings to suit. i did this recently with my RB30 and came back with King bearings and lyncished crank for $300

Just a question... why does it need to be adjustable? We modified the lower control arms on an AE86 to achieve a higher camber angle on the front. This was made after taking the required measurements to work out the extra length needed. then cut up 2 sets of lower control arms and then welded them together with appropriate reinforcements.

have to say my Alloy welding hasnt improved too much lol Will, would you say that the Thick alloy of those truck bull bars is alot easier to work than a smaller 2mm sheet of alloy? are they done with multiple passes to increase the penetration of the welds?

ok, reboring the block is an engine rebuild - so no you dont need that unless it has issues. GTR front mounts are good, but usually the cheaper kits from just jap etc are just as good and come with the piping you need gtr injectors are good upgrade on the cheap - but need ECU to do this Remapped ECU - Dr Drift based in Melbourne does them . AFAIK around $600 and up for a tune start with a front mount and a boost controller - bout $600 ish if you install yourself then save up for the rest dont rush into it and read around a bit cos i dont think you looked too hard try the rb20 dyno results thread at the top of this section for a starting guideline

std R32 gtst ECU can be chipped and tuned Cams would not be the first thing you do - look at the slide turbo upgrade thread for results of his highflows, turbo injectors fuel pump should be the first things then tune

The power steering system should be only pressurised between the pump and the solenoid on the steering rack. If the entire system was pressurised then you wouldnt be able to open the lid to top it up without it releasing the pressure and spraying fluid everywhere, in addition to this a perished hose would split and the offending leak would be a spray instead of a simple weeping of a small amount of fluid. i cant say 100% that the use of a vent in the resevoir is what is required here only that the assumption of the system being completely pressurised does not seem correct.

If the seats arent ADR compliant then no matter what you do you can be defected for them.. where as GTR seats are bolt in and compliant -

air is drawn into the engine from the bottom half of the box, so that wouldnt work

Nice write up.. i have been planning to use this method on my torana .. see how it works on the none factory black sound deadener v's the factory stuff you used it on .. nice job

how have you been advised to do this bracing?

anyone know a cheap place in Sydney to get some ARP rod bolts for the std rb30e rods?

take off the cross over pipe to the throttle body then unscrew everything. it really is that simple

not on a 32 it wont 33 should fit

Some nice shots there Ed ..

well the Q45 is 90mm std is 80mm so you'll need to get a reducer setup.. SAFC might work, cant confirm.. if you only got SAFC then the Q45 is over kill anyway