Craved

check the earthing wire on the handbrake lever - these are sometimes hooked up to a turbo timer for a cut off, if there is another wire for this, or damage on the std wire, it can be earthing out on the chassis and turning the light on.

when you back off the trigger if you only go half way it will only spray air, pretty sure thats how end the stroke .. but maybe frogman could elaborate. still looks pretty good especially for a first try, definately giving others and me a bit of confidence in DIY painting.

you would need to pull them apart by heating them up with a heat gun or oven . take your time and dont force them out

the fuse box cover .. is that a chrome paint?

yeah i've been priming up my bike and a bodykit with the 1.4mm nozzle, just switched to a 1.7mm and its 3 times better lol nice work - now picsorban

power FC then see the diagrams section of Paulr33's website for wiring details http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com

simplified version : Removal: Remove Harmonic balancer and timing gear on the crank. including half moon keys. drop the sump down about 20mm at the front undo all bolts on the oil pump and slide forward. Install: new oil pump gasket, install pump back onto crank collar, bolt up in order specified in the workshop manual reseal sump and bolt onto block reinstall timing gear and belt and balancer. prime oil pump by pouring oil into the outlet pipe on the oil filter assemply crank engine without spark or fuel to confirm oil pressure

What gun did you use? what size nozzle? did you do it in acrylic or 2 pac ..

no they are not the same im pretty sure you could fit them, but you would need to change the bonnet to a S2 one to use S2 lights

Very neat work this done with a MIG or TIG ?

This is the full shot of mine - as used in the DIY thread i linked

here is the DIY for the panel http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...120645&st=0

butt joint, there are different types, but have a look in the welding 101 thread here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=156412 the post by JAS-25T has a few PDF's one of the the TAFE one, has an outline of different butt joints.

http://www.modyourcar.com.au/product_info....roducts_id=3415 $449 bucks for rb26 http://www.tweakit.net/shop/index.php?cPath=57_51_657 $275 for rb25 think the rb25 and rb30 are 11mm - rb26 is 12mm and chev rods are 1/2 inch

rb30 and rb25 head studs are the same size - rb26 ones are extremely expensive

nope, can run either the solid tube or braided lines. use speedflow if you have the cash, if not std gas type fittings that are used in the pics that isnt my setup above, i think personally from what i have read, that a seperate return that is seperate from the turbo oil drain is a wise idea due to the amount of frothy oil that comes down out of the turbo, but its all up to you

rb25det head already has an oil drain about 15-20mm forward from the exhaust port for cylinder 1. you need to run the drain line off that flange down and into the sump, so you need a fitting on the sump to accept this line as you can see in the picture below, it is the gold line infront (left) of the exhaust shield.

most new ring sets state what their clearances are, but like most of the rb25 stuff it is the same as rb26. as per the manual

1) there are usually only about 4 bends in the exhaust, so at $20 a bend for stainless you would be better to use them instead of the section bends, considering the time it would take, as well as the limited accuracy you would have with an angle grinder. If with stainless you would want only a gap between the pieces that is smaller than the filler wire you will be using. you can do it, but the trouble with increase and neatness will definately be affected. if you decide the crab style, then use 7 degree's of less for the angle of the cuts - any more and the matching of the end pieces becomes ugly,hard to weld, and a flow restriction 2) butt joints will be best, once again its neater, but true it would be harder to weld neatly but would look better in the long run and no worry of affecting the flow 3) most hangers are welded onto the side of the exhaust where needed, just ensure there is no burn through or holes. as well and sufficient area of weld to prevent any cracking since this is where the weight is taken from. also from what i have seen, try and triangulate the support so there is more coverage 4) up to you on what you want to pay for the grade of stainless, just remember to match the filler with the grade of steel you use. 5) it would be easier if you did it in sections, but it really depends on why you are changing it in the first place. If your happy with the design and it seems to flow well, then i would copy it.

the rb25 vct head has a drain on the exhaust side that it uses for the extra oil fed in. use a 1/8th fitting pic of where it is normally put remember to setup the additional oil drain ont he exhaust side in the sump for this head return. all pics were taken from this thread btw

Did you use an Oxy set to braze on those brass fittings?

he is running tial 38mm external gate on a TD06. from our msn conversation, as soon as it relies on the EBC, it will over boost

http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/diagr...33-fusebox.html but check them all - if its not a fuse then there will be a wiring issue behind the dash somewhere

undo the bolt behind the head, then un hook that entire line from the back of the plenum... and yes replace that section onto the plenum, mine let go after my turbo upgrade, wasnt easy to get to with it all bolted back up. you could just remove the solid line all together and run the braid from the back of the plenum

no they dont, you can get adapter plates made up... but the flanges dont match