Craved

quickie - what engine sealant did you guys use on the replacement whelsh plugs .. i have a black sensor safe engine sealer i used on my bike, would this suffice? or something like a tri bond sealer be best?

exchange rate atm is 1GBP = AU$2.46924 100,000 pounds is currently $246,924 so given a quater Mil you might be able to get there

mate runs an engine kill switch like the one suggested on his sprint car, with over $60K in the engine, as soon as the oil pressure drops, it cuts everything. with our cars it might ne a little harder than the carbied V8.. as you have to bypass any chance of a turbo timer working etc, then power steering and where you are. but i am DEFINATELY going to run a switch to a specific light (autometer pen light for example) that will be direct line of sight. might not save the rebuild, but you wont go seizing anything.

maybe pm http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...?showuser=25722

but you can buy a VRS kit without the head gasket in it. check with nissan at the price.

just get a quick recheck of the AFR's ona dyno if they are good now, means they were bad before.

cant really say, it depends on the compression ratio you want to run.

N1 pumps for $410 here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=133537 cometic gaskets here - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=131709&hl=

that is fairly common from what i have seen , that cleaning your injectors allows them to flow more .. flowing more for any given pulse of the injectors would mean that more fuel per pulse, which would be more rich, as the ECU doesnt know how much its flowing, only how long its pulse is. so yes, it would be running more rich

not running lean due to them being dirty, hence reducing the power output

get BCP6ES coppers at .8mm gap your iridiums are probably at 1 or 1.2mm gap which may be too large for your coils and boost pressure.

plug in the back of the unit is loose perhaps i have same issue with both tacho and speedo on my 33

you could do it without welding , but it was by far easier for me to weld it than to get the pipe and drill holes and use bolts etc the only thing welded was a solid bar to go from each bolt hole on teh top of the IC , then in the centre an L braket welded so it could be bolted to the bonnet latch support. reason for this was, the std REO bar is not being used behind the front bar, so nothing to bolt to using the supplied brackets.

r32 and S1 R33 are the same . havea look on pauls site http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com

get your alternator checked by an auto electrician

thats it, if the crank has to be machined due to current wear, you will need oversized bearings, if they are all within std spec they lynish the crank and use std sized bearings

my exaust guy does rally panel beating too, he has a WRX rally car that he works on, for the rally the water spray is activated over a certain boost pressure, and only if this pressure is active for X seconds. just an idea rather than a temp sensor

green label, is r32 or S1 R33 std AFM's 80mm diameter

this is why i ran a oil filter inline on the turbo oil feed line. for $110 for the filter plus fittings its good insurance.

too rich is a killer of cats.

sounds like the cat temp sensor, check your cat to see if its melted inside.

what help do you actually need? setup or install or use?

i know the 33's run a metal line, so if you cut it and run a loop you should be fine, however the filler cap breather should only be for when you fill it up, so seals when the cap is back on

15 BTDC is manual 20 BTDC for auto

this also includes a breather from the fuel tank if im not mistaken. so going lower than the tank will cause a possible siphon effect when the tanks full ? would only be on an over filled tank i guess sine the breather is mounted to the cap ontop of the tank.