Craved

it is due to the resistance change due to the blown globe .. if you replace these globes with LED lights with lower resistance, this would happen then too

RB's are not non compliance heads ... they basically the "saftey" mechanism is the fact that a top Dead Centre the valves do not extend far enough to hit the piston - which is what causes the damage RB's WILL bend valves if you timing belt snaps that (sticker as said above) is for writing on with the KMs the car has done before its changed so if you change it at 90,000 the first time, you should change before 190,000 next time

usually around the $1K mark have also been told by my mech that on FI motors the rewards arent really that great compared to doing this on an NA ... and for the cost .. im with Ash i have done a knife edge on the spliter between the valves per inlet port on my rb25 head for my rb30 ... but thats it would get more gain from porting if you coupled it with bigger valves - but thats big dollars - machining and fitting plus port plus parts

wtf

drag

passenger kick panel left of the footwell behind the plastic cover

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...=93880&st=0 post 19 looks to match your stuff

BAN!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

pm sent

yeah, im going to be using a stainless box with a perspex front cover - in the 33 it will be covering the entire shelf in the boot.. TWO06L run a full perspex box in their 32 GTR

its tapered 80mm at AFM and alot smaller at turbo end .. around 50mm i think there are a few threads recently talking about these ..

not illegal in NSW unless all the lines and tank are exposed- if you have it all air tight, then you will be fine... mine isnt yet, but will be once i make up a box for it all ..

the inlet piping from your air filter ... easier to do than the exhaust, just to use your fingers to see if the turbo is spinning.. if not its seized completely and turbo is cactus the oil feed is using a banjo fitting, looks fine - there are other types of fittings that could have been used, that is what that bolt hole would be for - that one does look like the type used for the oil drain backs .. this where you heading Daz ?

in that picture it doesnt look like the wastgate is stuck open any way of removing the piping into the turbo and check that the wheels spin?

take the heat shield off, and try to get the numbers from the plate thats on the bearing catridge (between the housings)

i bought a MIG last year . can run both Gasless and std wire. was $550 - most industrial bolt/tool shops have these gasless wire doesnt weld as good and the normal wire, but does still work a charm after some practice (depending on the application) Mad - where abouts are these industrial auctions in NSW if you know?

im running near 300 rwkw on std rb25 lines and rail .. running std pump as lift pump into surge tank, then adapt into 044 then into check valve, then into std lines - even retaining the std type fuel filter in the engine bay just replaced nearly all of the hose with better 600psi hydrolic hose

normally head off to replace the rings Adam .. (this would go for replacement pistons too.. unless you can get the ring compressors in from the bottom - havent tried myself) plus then you can see if any scoreing has taken place .. rings come in sets of 6 usually wouldnt have to go new bearings if they are fine and no signs of scoring/play use engine sealant on the sump, dont really need a gasket

depends on how bad the leak is, i had a small leak in mine a while back.. slight bubbles... drove around fine, just a little up on temp... could only tell that it had a leak cos we Co2 tested the radiator.. more than likely it would be just a blocked radiator

could be due to high temps, or faulty temps 105 is just at the begining of the red section on the std guage.. but they are very innacurate did it cool down as you were moving? could be : clogged radiator faulty thermostat faulty temp sensors headgasket (worst case)

hhaaha i thought something was funny

ghey

std gasket is fine

i would use and engine sealant, once i get to the point of doing this myself ..

vct retained and std gear on exhaust side... this wont really show you much on the std turbo though (if your still running it)