Craved

doesnt affect how much oil is pumped just is used to prevent oil pump failures due to uneven pressure on its internal gears, which can cause them to crack like in Cubes' post above .. see red circles

hmmm might have to look at this have the rb30e oil pump at home, and an RB25det one too my first rb30 i am rebuiling for under $1500 as i cant afford the full build forged internal ones atm .. and i already have another long engine sitting there .. so i guess i will try and see ... if it goes boom it goes boom.

originally i was under the impression it was required/created for r32GTR cranks to be able to run the later model R33 GTR pumps which utilise the larger area but now it seems normal for people to suggest fitting it.. personally i'm going to be running the rb25 oil pump on the first motor, so im not going to install one on this engine. std bottom end, cant really justify the cost of the unit and install, built motor with N1 will get it

are you using the std manifold? how are you getting around the extra 25mm of stud length required to make it through the spacer?

umm what custom work ??? most of the parts for these conversions are available pre made, such as crank collars, 4wd adapter plates etc more than likely he would be using nepean engines on correen Av for the machining work (same guy did my block prep) has done Dans engine, can confirm this he will be doing some of the oil feed work for my rb25 head, as he did it a clever way for Dans engine.

have you spoken to Jamie about it Ben ?? im sure he would be willing to do this for you.

roar, you all beat me happy birthday for sammeh funny random pic

run it through the under the seat, down next to the drivers seat under the carpet, then into the engine bay using the rubber grommet, or you could run it down under the car .

how are the prices on the SR20 bolts vs the VG30 ? trade of about $88 for the VG's not even sure they are gonna be needed on the std rods, std piston limited to 300rwkw and 7000 rpm..

isnt there like 4 or 6 wires off the stabiliser? each of these to hook up to individual parts of the engine bay, CAS, starter, earth strap to block, throttle body etc ?? i would run 1 wire from boot to engine bay, hook stabiliser to the wire in the engine bay then each bit to the spot on the engine... but thats just me

does ARP run a rod bolt for the std RB30 rods? or will the VG 30 bolts fit like they do on the GTR rods ??

less whoosh sound, but still good and not defectable

ben .. does the trust rear housing run a V clamp ?? if so then yes it will be different as there are no bolts to attach these shields to

HKS ones on negun are cheaper http://www.nengun.com/catalogue/product/380

hahah my english no so good today LOL - last line should have been as below : but if your not removing the head for another reason you could consider it if you have the money it sounds like it would be a waste of money for little gain without having alot of other supporting mods and pushing flow limits of the std head ..

depends on what power output your trying to reach, to me on a forced induction motor, this would be the last thing to do to gain horsepower port matching is more important. but if your not removing the head for another reason, it sounds like it would be a waste of money for little gain

have you tried another ECU with my std ECU - the car wouldnt idle AT ALL. like nothing, dont rev it manually it would stall plugged in power FC . fixed try anothers ecu

we paid $110 for 6 injetcors cleaned and tested - just for an idea ( no where near s/e QLD)

more boost would cause more crank case pressure if worn rings... hence more pressure thats helping said oil out of the head into your catch can get a comp test done to see how your rings are going.

i hope these questions arent related. i cant be 100% but EVERY engine has a harmonic balancer.. cant think of any that dont. ATI lightweight balancer are for engines that are built for more revs than std.

this is also a possible cause... so reducing the boost level will help get a compression test done to see , you might have worn rings or perhaps worse, excessive crank case pressure can cause the xtra blow by. only way to reduce oil in the head if thats the cause is to restrict the amount oil going into the head. check the forced induction FAQ's in the sticky section

didnt Twoogle get near 500awkw on race fuel ? so thats around 670hp that was with HKS 2530's dont see why it wouldnt be possible on the 2835r's

return comes from the regulator .. the feed pipe is the steel pipe that runs to the rear of the engine..

perhaps the heat range is too hot.. heat range 5 are very hot... what were the old ones? most people run heat range 6 at least hahaa damn this took me ages to get to...

hence my reason for going for the plazmaman plenum, runnners are te same length as before - better for producing torque and lower rpm .. just suprised at the amount of laughing at what others have done, coming from someone who likes to write from experience is all problem is that many people do what ben did and change it all at once, i know i did.. and it makes it hard to guage what kind of benefits you will get from this. either way, he will need to choose one to get the engine under the bonnet, all of them have been used on high powered cars, stick with a name brand that has been used and the rest is about which one you like the look of better .