Craved

if you could get a better explaination about this statement i would be insterested.. as for cold starts the water is cold, what would cold water do for the injectors on a cold start??? --been looking into running a bleeder tank on my car too.. good to see it works hooking it up here

haha yeah the busted stalk works fine still held up to the wiper stalk with a rubber band lol

here is sounds like you dont know if it will get you more power with a change then here you state that you will get more power with it changed ... ------ im not debating that they can help or not, hell i even have a plazmaman plenum myself .. but when you bag someone, try not to contradict yourself as far as i have seen there is always merit in going for a larger capacity plenum. nismo version of the rb26 plenum is almost identical just larger, and the slight change near cyl 6. for rb25/30 ... change it so you wont have to affect the geometry of the drive train to get it under the bonnet..

you dont O ring the block with a cometic gasket PM Slide - from sliding performance... he can get the cometic gaskets for you.. he also does CP pistons www.slidingperformance.com

motorsport connections in seven hills NSW - used to do it, along with all the speedflow fittings for it.. alternatively they also have pushlock style hosing and fittings that are great and cheaper than braid. http://dragster.com.au/modules/xdirectory/...=15&lid=100

which line on the HB are you using?

we have one of those on our 80 series diesel landcrusier only issue we had was the stalk broke easily , still works fine, but the stalk unit isnt strong (where the stalk connects into the mounting unit) this was installed a long time ago porfessionally, but the stalk unit looks EXACTLY like the one we got

if you have a water cooled turbo, there must be another water feed somewhere going to them if not, make sure you get one in there what turbo is it running?

basically get the main air bubbles out of the system with the radiator cap (main) then when car has warmed up, put cap back on radiator then open the bolt on the top of the engine, do not remove bolt, only loosen to allow air to escape, once there is no more air coming out of the bolt hole, tighten it back up since that bolt is the highest point in the system, the air will makeits ways there also this needs to be done with the heater on

pretty sure elsewhere in this thread it says that the r32 gts4 uses the GTR box and doesn't have any issues

bleed point just infront of the plenum ... there is a bolt there with a yellow sticker that says "do not open when hot"

another good point if your paying $10K plus to get there .. spend that little more on a good manifold that said though, my std manifold cracked with the std turbo.. so they arent full proof

it will if it is the correct one for your car 500-A022 is direct bolt on for the r33,r32,z32,r34 AFMs Q45 is the 500-A021

has yours got 3 or 4 wires? more than likely it would be the 3 wire setup like the S2 r33 R33 s1 = 4 wires - green AFM s2 = 3 wires - pink AFM

get it setup on the dyno. all of it... then you wont need to worry about whether it will work or not, also spikes can be tuned out before they become an issue or you could risk it all ..

get an RB25 clutch fan for your RB20 ... they pull more air than the rb20 fan, and work better than thermo fans

the hose that is part of the throttle and bleeder system that runs off the back of the thermo housing goes up into the plenum around the injectors, then out the back of the plenum to the turbo ... you must keep this hooked up.

i would not have done your turbo's return line like this. oil that has passed througha turbo is frothy ..and needs a large space to flow back into the sump easily.. the block should have had the fitting for the return in it already, if not you should have welded/brazed a fitting onto the side of the sump. havea restriction can cause excess oil to get into the head if its causing a blockage in that vct oil return on the front of the head.. that said you still have the 2 returns at the back of the head/block for oil to return to the sump. compression test will show you if your rings are sealing. if they arent, then the compressed air from the combustion chamber, pressurises the block and head ... and comes out where your little blue filter is.. hence excess oil coming out there

they will help mid range and top end usually around 12-13kw top end and up to 20 kw midrange up to you if its worth the cost

White with Blue Trace - Ground Orange with Black Trace- Signal Black with White Trace - 12v Power is for the S2 if the other match then i would see the orange and black would be the same

you get any white smooke out the back of the car? might pay to get a test on the radiator done at a mechanics to see if any exhaust gas is getting into the radiator system

have they got a pink sticker?? and 3 wires? then yes its the same as a S2 R33 RB25

try another sender unit in the tank

fill it up and warm up the car without moving the car... see if you can see anythign dripping on the floor and where from

i installed mine with the sealant .. havent noticed any issues no where near as many heat cycles as you joel, but no issues as yet