Craved

checked the 2 layers of the boot skin/reinforcement area? (common issue after putting in big stereos - need to silicon the 2 layers together so they dont rattle) checked the licence plate mounts and plate itself?

PFC would only show boost if you get the otpional Map sensor for it .. Z32 i would install now as you cant just plug them in and select Z32 and the tune be same as before... you will need to shift the load map to match the Z32 .. which is usually back to the tuners.. so save any mucking around and going back to the tuner and get it installed originally..

UAS - http://www.nismo.com.au advertise the GTR manifolds honed and coated for ~$860 so would be similar or less to get this done yourself directly with each people.. just an idea on round about costs. for $200 i'd go for stainless type manifold setup

i was looking for around 3400rpm full boost on my 3ltr with the 0.86 HKS housing... since the current 1.12 on the rb25 with poncams hits at 5000rpm ... guess we'll have to wait and see ... ======== side note, anyone have the price for some replacement rings for the std RB30 rings?? priced a set of race rings for them .. @ $264 .. if the std nissan or generic rings will handle the 300rwkw aim on the std bottom end, then i'll go with them over the race style ones.

there must be a point where the amount of air the std funnel opening in the std airbox will become a restriction... i know that even pod filters can be very restrictive... my example... std turbo at 11psi with 02 Rush pod filter... the filter section came unstuck from teh adapter it was glued onto that connected to the AFM .... went from 11psi to 16psi and hit the R&R ... std panel filter would have similar surface area to an apexi pod.... but nothing restricting how much air is getting to the pod.. == so in this particular stockish setup im with Paul and this std panel setup will reduce defectability....

Power v's RPM on dyno sheets please as well as some specs of the turbo

this is a good site as to why you would clay a car, and how http://www.autogeek.net/megovclay.html its about $38 for the kit at most auto one/Peps auto etc shops you buy the kit with a meguirs spray that lubes the clay bar and the small clay bar itself

sweet ...

a test site for the apexi vs others http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/filters_test/1/index.html only ever seen the intake kits used on GTR's and s13's and cant find pics the filter only section is all thats needed

wouldn't the temp one lag with this not being a flow through type setup ?? once the line is primed wouldnt the oil that is there to start with not be removed from its place if its pressurised ?? hence taking a long time to heat up since it isnt passing through the engine. just thinking of the path of least resistance..

the water feed to teh turbo comes from the plenum . if you are talking about the line that runs next to the injectors??? it comes out of the rear of the plenum around the back of the head and to the turbo... i wouldnt be blocking this off

upgrade the IC if you are installing the Power Fc im sure that the extra timing the tune can introduce will mask any throttle lag you might see...

anti freeze properties so the TB isn't frozen open or shut

boost level when issue is seen???

you measure water temp after it leaves the engine .... i would think the same applies to oil temps but then again, nearly everyone says sump to me aswell. other than people who have the sandwich plates and they just use them without knowing whether its in or out feed

one (Power Intake kit) comes with the small metal adapter that says apexi on it... the other (Replacement Filter) is simply the filter part that still bolts onto the AFM if you get the correct one...

500-A022 are the pods for the std r33 and Z32 AFMS 500 - A021 are for the Q45

if you disconnect the solenoid that opens the oil feed to the gear it wont move and remains closed just a thought

get a replacement std fuel pressure regulator ... and test regardless of fuel pump, it is up to this device to regulate the pressure make sure your return lines aren't kinked at all either

well i might look into an upgrade once the RB30 is installed with the new 100mm just jap intercooler.. redoing all the piping at that point anyway to the 3" so will wait for that .. in the mean time im just under 300rwkw so i'll leave it for now good insights to something i had been thinking about recently anyway and yeah Michael i forgot about that diagram that Aaron (slide) got his sneaky little hands on sounding more and more viable to change over... good thing the plazmaman plenum is made to support a 100mm TB.

TPS is on the throttle linkage unit on top of the plenum .. its attached to the rear of the linkage unit

that sounds very laggy.. there are N1 versions of rb26 (R34) that come in A/R 60 but they run the rear housing of 0.64 so that sounds too laggy on that housing even on the RB20 all the HKS GT25 series run 0.60 AR's as well if you can get pics of the turbo that would be better .. or the numbers from the plate on the bearing cartridge between the housings

sounds fair wonder if knife edging the butterfly plate would help big thing would the the bar that attaches the plate to the throttle mechanism... bit hard to smooth the airflow past that .. just dont wanna hassle around with the new wiring etc, as lots of people have been having trouble wiring up the Q45 to the std wiring

there is a fuse and relay in the boot next to the battery for the fuel system ther relay is switched from the ECCS relay in the passenger kick panel.. i had a similar issues in my car after i used the std wiring as a trigger for a 044 pump ... had to rewire a switch manually to get me going and havent gone back to find the issue that caused it

my IC piping is 2.5" all the way and it uses a reducer from the std TB to that size... i dont see how a larger TB on a turbo will help as the pipe is all one diameter and compressed... having a bigger opening for 100mm before the plenum i dont see how that would help in performance