Craved

if the old car had a bit of blowby, crank case pressure and no oil catch can, then yeah all that oil mist goes into your turbo, and out that elbow

is this like the boost control they used on the Group A skylines?

so you want that oil mist that is making a "right mess" to go back into the engine? if you are getting oil mist, then you NEED a catch can, as that is what it is for... removing the oil from the air/pressure in the cam covers/head.

was looking for the wiring diagrams for the Q45 as i just got one for my car once again Paul, awesome site you have .. thought you might wanna add that apexi pod model 500 - A021 fits the Q45 and 500 -A022 is for Z32 and std skyline 80mm AFM's

mis match std turbine with N1 compressors... thats is if the rears are 0.48

GT- SS run the 0.42 AR .. well according to that spec sheet

according to this, http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbroom/Turbos.htm only the R34 N1 came with a 0.6 AR compressor.. top left is r34 N1 and it has the same compressor housing look as the one in the pic...

nissan

i thought the N1 has a higher Nikel content to help with thermal stress etc ... hence handle more power than the std block

hks cast lowmount manifolds some on www.spoolimports.com

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...haft-specs.html here

all that said, it should not hurt anything, and if you want to try it out, you can only ruin it or get it right

nengun is cheapest i think Just jap have them for $165

nismo water thermostats open at 60 deg std ones aim for 80 degrees but then again lotus Elise's run their cooling system at 110degrees ... lots of theories i guess

wouldnt need a nismo 60 degree one... they are the same as an RB30, RB26 etc .. all the same .. so try holden/nissan for price on the RB30 one for a r31 etc. should be cheaper

im interested to know if they are simply slide on type adapters or press fitted etc aswell..

i might be having a mental blank, but the temp sensors are located after the thermo, so if its not open then the water on the temp sensor side isn't as hot as inside the engine... hence why a car stays at cold til it sort of suddenly gets warm when the thermo opens.

could be the thermo not opening enough to flow enough with the increased heat from a thrashing, or the radiator not having enough flow to cool enough after a thrashing.. change the thermostat if you can do it yourself, be cheaper fix, if it dont work then atleast you wont have to worry about it later

couple of hundred at least. the end task are the plastic bit on the radiator... like where the pipes go into it .. and the rad cap is located if you are going to do track days, look into getting a quote from a radiator place... if its a few hundred look into getting a bigger radiator http://www.justjap.com/parts_ncooling.htm

lucky you cahnged the water pump previoulsy otherwise the same thing woulda happened to the fins on the inside of it.. rendering it useless. are you getting them all replaced now? dont want it to rust through another one

your flush you did included removing the radiator and pumping some high pressure water through it before putting it back in the car ???? proper flush will costs you if the end tanks are cracking, cos when they remove them they usually damaged and need to be replaced

never mind less obstruction infront of the radiator, more room for oil coolers etc i would do it, but i like my aircon

damn welsh plugs good to see you sorted it

coolant is the same remember that adding more coolant increases the boiling point of the fluid, but DOES NOT make it better at cooling. so as lonmg as there is no leaks and the coolant is diluted, it could be a blockage. doubt it would be the thermostat as if that didn't open you would not see the high temps sounds like a blockage in the radiator..

if you can confirm that it runs its own separate belt... then you can remove the belt, undot the 4 bolts that hold the compressor onto the block undo the lines, remove the radiator then remove the condensor that is underthe radiator support, remove the thermo fan etc etc would be fairly easy to do, IF it uses it own belt, if it shares one, then you would have to try and figure out a way to replace that belt with another that retains correct tension so you dont lose your power steering