Craved

you would be able to mount the surge tank under the car if you replace the wheel well... if you are putting a drop tank in, you wont need the std tank, so remove that, plenty of room then for all fuel systems. making it legal is the hard/costly part .. and yeah, i dont have a spare in my car either, havent for 3 years.

getting them properly flushed mean having the end tanks taken off, and due to the age of these cars there is usually hairline cracks in the tanks, which means new tanks when getting that done, take it out and geta quote. re: cap for radiator, you see the coolant spilling out of the overflow tank? did you Bleed the radiator system properly when you refilled it after the flush?

that sorta gives it aweay as a manual Victor

R33 doesn't have a factory fuel cut, SAFC will by pass the max airflow protection (R&R) better still = skip the SAFC and go for the power FC, as those mods wont get you the 220rwkw ... you would need a turbo upgrade

cold smelly crap it is LOL - yeah just undo it with a rag around your socket

32s have teh fuel tank under the boot, R33's ones are infront and over the rear Axle .. good luck getting one engineered, and more than likely you would lose your spare wheel well in this process too ..

if the AC compressor uses a separate belt to the power steering pump (cant remember if it does right now) then you can remove the belt, remove compressor, remove piping, remove the condensor etc etc etc

AFAIK only the S2 R33 have the adjustable height on the arial..

passenger side in the middle ??? sounds like turbo's water feed bit fiddly to get to though can be feed or return, banjo bolts at return at block, and the turbo for feed and return .. feed comes from a rubber hose from behind the head

coolant can come from rear: turbo feed pipe that is behind the head, and is fed from the rear of the plenum. heater hoses side: oil cooler, heater feed hoses, feed from thermo housing to the plenum. turbo water feed @ turbo front: radiator hoses.

where is it leaking from though .. rear of the engine, front, side ???

is there an actual benefit to having the oil at 50 degrees over 80 degrees ?? for example .. if the cooler keeps it at 80 all the time, would you see any benefit with performance or longevity if it was at 50 degrees instead.

have a look here RANDY's guide to removing the lights .. should help get rid of that water in the lights http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...lights&st=0

because they are getting old enough to be horribly inaccurate. std boost guage goes to 1 Bar max.. im running 18psi, and since i started running that, the std boost guage just doesn't work anymore, for boost or for vacuum (by not work it sticks and reads wrong, and at full boost it hard against the top of the guage)

fair enough i could handle the 100grams for a little peace of mind that i can see how much pressure the oils has is all...

if im not mistaken 1.6mm is BIGGER than a std gasket thickness... so using that instead of taking the 1mm of the block will make everything WORSE .. your taking 1mm off the block to INCREASE the compression... adding a larger gasket REDUCES compression..

one guy on SAU is rebuilding his engine after the countersunk screws in the back of the oil pump came loose and slowly got worse til it failed completely... so this was progressive. i dont trust any of the std guages other than speed and tacho, and i know they are wrong the further up the scale you go..

RB30ET can be used, the pistons however give a very low compression ratio .. about 7:1 from memory

difference between low oil pressure and none ..... shame that most cars dont have a ZERO oil pressure cut off, i'll be installing one.

water temp, oil temp and oil pressure

std one disconnected how? like venting to atmosphere?? if so very bad as they leak at idle ecu reset, check idle adjustment on the AAC valve on the plenum, Throttle position sensor could be loose or setup wrong, clean the AFM as well heaps of stuff to try

that would be the factory boost guage feed pipe above the AAC, a slight pop in the exhaust seems to be fairly common on most rb's though..

hand tight on the bolts, sure there is a torque spec in the manual but adobe isnt opening and i have no way to know what torque it is with a screw driver anyway. remember to use sealant on the half moons at the back of the covers otherwise they fall out and you have to buy new ones once it starts leaking, or they fall in, it stills leaks, but could be munched up by the cams. they simply push into the recess in the covers to fit snugly in place, no sealant neccissary here. they come in the VRS kits from nissan, so although no part number, they can be bought from nissan direct. simply remove the centre coil pack covers, and remove the breather pipes at the rear of the covers, then undo the screws along the inside and outside of the cover. lift cover of and replace seal.

yup thats right... so 400hp ... full boost at 5000rpm so im off boost mostly unless i need it. but that said. a run up the Old Pacific highway took the same fuel as 2 other gtsts - 1 stock 1 with 250rwkw and a GTR with 330rwkw .. all used 1/4tank cos we all filled up at the same petrol station on the way . so there is heaps involved in economy as Paulr33 said

all skylines ahve fuel pressure regulators as standard installing a high flowing fuel pump should not increase the fuel sonsumption unless the old one wasn't flowing enough at high rpm and running lean.