Craved

Well, i took the boot around to a painter.... was told that i over heated the panel and stretched it, and that it wont block flat without heat shrinking the boot (granted that it was a little hot and the boot skin does flex more than std) and that i should find a new boot and start with that. so i went and spent $31 on some acrylic GMH black paint and a spray primer. primed, dried, wet sanded then gave it a couple of coats of black. just wish the spray gun i had was a little more reliable and would spray a nice consistent pattern, turned out ok, flash certainly makes it look worse. Will block it again and give another coat later when i can get a better gun, or someone who is a better painter than me to give it a go

Well this list is completed and the car is running again. Just waiting on the pins for the rear calipers to hold the pads in place (custom machined pins due to the spacers inside the caliper) then off to a wheel alignment later this week. No worries Neil Few updates: one big hiccup, noticed a small amount weeping of coolant weeping from the water outlet in the plenum, so i tightened the hose clamp.............and crack! whoops Off to UAS for a replacement and had the new outlet pipe installed in about 20 mins. In order to attract less attention from the police i have started prepping a street boot that i have shaved over the last couple of nights. Will get this painted up and installed this week hopefully.

they arent too bad but lots more than aftermarket jap rims - and the older touring 18's like im using are non staggered even offset some specs available here : http://www.350z-tech.com/wiki/index.php/Wheel_Specifications

dave is super keen lol see you in the morning mate dont forget to ask your questions too, there is some custom stuff needed to get her to work, so make sure you remember everything to ask haha

im with adriano, undo the piping and engine mounts, then lift the motor up and tilted back as far as it can go. it is a bitch, but possible.

alloy MIG also doesnt need AC, though there are specialised rollers for the feeding mechanism to stop the rollers from attacking the wire - along with the above teflon liners for the gun lead and using argon

yeah, but even a garage with the tools i have in it would be fine for this sorta stuff. now if i had a hoist, be totally different story lol

Sent my RB30 block off to get machined at Windsor engine reconditioning. full engine clean, hone and removal and grub screwing of the oil gallery plugs. got it back yesterday so did some work on it til late last night Lick of paint Then some threebond and installed the welch plugs Then dummy assembled the motor to check the clearances with plastiguage running 3 thou clearance on the bearings. Block went back to windsor engines today for decking after the paint process was completed. Also sent over the crank this time for machining for the crank collar, grub screwing and a polish of the journals. Took some time tonight to weld up the chassis passthroughs in teh engine bay now i have the 0.6 wire and rollers etc. Quick grind witha flapper wheel, then a coat of rattle can paint for the moment. will smooth it out and get the rest of the holes welded up once the motor is removed. Will work on welding the sump this week for the oil temp sensor, get that coated up ready for final assembly when i get the block and crank back.

Looking good dave felt the ears burning, atleast was good this time haha i've got a set of 25 covers with -10 fittings welded on already if you dont want to leave your motor open for 3 weeks. Neil - i'll be selling my plazmaman plenum in a couple of months if you arent in a rush Ryan - you ever get my pm about the bonnet?

NEVERMIND lol we were using the wrong girdle, swapped that over and got 3 thou all along lol maybe help someone else along the line somewhere

Bringing this back as there is no point making a new thread just dummied up a block with 2 different cranks clearances on both cranks start at 2thou rear and work up to 5thou at the front. Any ideas what might cause this issue? cheers

haha - they make good power on the 1jz motor too - mate used to work at ASA and they put one in an IS200 that had the same GT3040 on it and it was easily over 300rwkw. have seen them still for sale, think they are well under the price i paid for mine 7-8 years ago lol

oh yeah Dave, the engine bay is almost back together now so you can see it running in a week or so Also while it looks strange with the 2 lots of silicon off the turbo outlet, the blue pipe is a 2.5 to 3 inch reducer, got my delivery in from JNT performance but didnt want to waste one of the alloy reducers i got until i do the final piping on the 26/30. I'll have to upgrade the exh manifold for the 26 head so most rb26 manifolds sit the turbo more forward than this one ( flange is behind the centre line of the runners)so both intake and outlet will need to be changed Next: strip down all the piping and clean up the insides of all the pipes got my new 0.6 rollers for the MIG and a new gun and lead (currently setup for Alloy MIG welding) - so weld up the pipe pass throughs and finalise the front reo welds make supports for the rear of the front bar re-run vacuum hose to the boost controller from the plenum - old setup had nipples on the turbo outlet pipe make a plug for the Pcv holes in both plenum and cam cover connect up inlet pipe start it

cheers you dont need the water lines to the TB as there is little chance of the TB icing up in cold weather i just used some pliers to wiggle the fittings out of the TB body. I got a couple of rb25 runners at the shop, so take a photo of yours and send it to me so i can be sure its the right one (apparently there are some differences) keeping it lol rb25 = 291rwkw on 18 psi with the poncams, so should still be enough to run on the 26/30 and make the 300rwkw mark without too much effort. i have the 0.87 and a 1.12 rear housings so flow wise it shouldnt run out with those options, but i just want it more streetable at this stage so the 0.87 will stay on we'll see what it gets

Little bit of progress today Dummied up the intercooler piping to get the RB25 running again. Welding is definately improving

left you a VM matt

damn, means i bought a 32 rb26 loom Is the pin outs for those 3 plugs easy to find?

whats an easy way to tell if you have r32 or r33 rb26 loom Ben?

yeah its a grey wire from memory (we put rb25 into a patrol and had to supply this wire with power) but the loom at the ECU end is different, doesnt have the big white plug on it that connects into the dash loom

r33's have that plug also- injector +ve power is run through there for some reason (located just behind the passenger headlight) im slowly trying to work out the r33 gtst to rb26 loom wiring myself

if it was a track car i'd rip out the stock speedo cluster and make my own hopefully lights, buzzers linked to hobbs switches will be enough to warn me. they can be a little annoying on start up though haha Mona, stay away from my seats

sweet offer, thanks brad! got any pointers for the vertical bandsaws? for alloy i would think that with regular cleaning a woodworking bandsaw would suffice, but im open to good suggestions or examples of the type of vertical saw i should be looking for. was thinking somethign like this https://www.machineryhouse.com.au/Products?stockCode=W4224# hahahahahaha yeah i use 7 degree cuts, varying the lengths to change the radius

cheers, right place right time with those, alot more work than just bolting them in for me since i had to weld on the mounts from the stock seats, but a bargain is never a bargain... but i could fix it easy enough so its still a bargain Yeah its a nardi deep corn. pricey bits of gear - picked it up from the tuners group. there is a small gap at the very outer edges of the rear seats between the back rest and the base, probably 10mm- i'll just have to put some black fabric/carpet behind there as the dynamat's reflective surface makes it more obvious if you are in the exact right position. i'll be running 2 1/16 inch autometer guages. Cant justify the cost of DEFI's etc at this point since i already have the guages. autometer also have angle bevels for their guages, so can run them to help increase visibility - thanks for the reminder, have to add them to the list lol - the only premade DINN slots i have seen have been heavily staggered and dont really look all that neat in my opinion. I can teach you to weld if you like, just let me know when you need a lesson, or have something you need to build Fair call, but other than in the illegal positions there is very little room for guages. As you can see in the old pic of the interior i did make an attempt at moving guages into more visible positions. However, if you cant take a little time to glance down then you are too busy driving and shouldnt be looking at guages lol ID3 has some boost logging capabilities and i never really looked at my old boost guage - 7 on the stock guage is approx 1 Bar, if its less on the guage then i have an issue, overboost has a warning on the ID3. I'll be setting up a series of hobbs switches linked to displays while im building the 30, so it can tell me if there are major issues going on anyway hopefully i can keep up with the work on it as i try to fit everything into this 3 day week, will see how we go

Bit more progress today before the work week starts again. Triangulated up the front bar mounts with tubing, then to test out my new dimple dies we added the plating between the supports. Next step is to finish welding the supports, then make a new support panel for the new power steering fluid cooler. I will be working on getting the car running again with the RB25 to test out the all the changes already made to : brakes, fuel system, wiring, intercooler, front bar supports, rear suspension geometry, and the new Tein Flex's i installed earlier (these need to be leveled out after the settling period) so plenty of things to go yet, but getting close to running again. Dont want to jump too far ahead and have alot of things to tweak when the 26/30 goes in.

decided to do it the easier but longer way will keep your way in mind Brad, for later when i have the tools for that