Craved

another vote here for JUN style turbo bump

i would hope so cut the hose, get a T piece that fits from auto one run hose from T piece to boost controller

these kits use alloy piping, go to a place like motorsport connections and buy an alloy nipple, have a sheet metal place weld it on for you... you cant braze a fitting on alloy.. edit even easier .. T it into your BOV pressure feed .. done

Fatz silvia special?

you shouldn't need the nipple unless you have changed the turbo.. std RB20 has the feed for the actuator coming off the compressor housing..

just installed one on saturday to an R32 only thing that was a real problem was that the angles of the piping on the drivers side was wrong, so it didn't line up.. simple straight cut and silicon joiner (at point where it goes through the body under the battery) and it fit no worries. cant comment on the mounting at the top of the IC as i welded up my own support bracket as the reo bar isn't being used. other than that, it seems a good kit for the price

doesn't really have any room for engine movement in it by the looks of things. i would have put more silicon joiners in the system to allow for the strain it will be under when the engine torques., other than that, looks the goods.. oh and maybe putting a joiner before that pipe that goes over the oil filler cap, so you can fill it up easy

yes, but you will need to modify the wings at the back end of the sump.. the RB30 crank will hit these

is it hitting the support bracing of the bonnet or the actual bonnet skin?

Coil pack mounts Crank Angle Sensor Starter motor earth Block you can pick the last one

you might wanna submit the walkthrough in the FYI section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=41378

same issue here since the speedo stopped working, the hicas requires a speed signal to it , if it does not have one, the steering gets stiff ..

alternator would be on the drivers side air con and power steer are on the passenger side -- no distributer

other spot would be the speaker cable area near the door hinges.. as thats outside and usually the ecu loom comes out inside the engine bay

intercooler restriction perhaps .. try having the boost controllers feeds from the plenum side not the hot pipe. these boost readings are taken from the plenum, why not do the same with your boost control feed..

changes the gap between the intermittant wiper.. long lines mean bigger gap between wipes small line is short gaps between wipes.

try here http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/ select diagrams on the left then option is RB25 fusebox diagram

i bought these for an upgrade myself, i cannot tell you how much boost was run on them, mainly the pistons wouldn't be used again, the rods are a very good cheap upgrade for an RB25. no visible signs of stress on the exterior of the rods, pistons dont show any signs of detonation that i can see either. will get pics up tomorrow as i couldn't find the pc adapter for camera today.

got a questions regarding this bread board .. how do you cut it down to size neatly? just picked some up for this other panel im doing... but instead of 5 rows that you need, its about 40 rows, but long enough to do the whole panel.. any hints?

yeah just wanted to check, since 4100rpm for full boost seems a little late for that sized housing on a 3L is all.

PM sent

you will need to if they are broken... for peace of mind for later down the track, replace them now

Thanks for that anychance you can dumb it down a little more? upright being cam lobe side up? whole = oil feed hole in the side of the lifter? cheers

pics and location please and a part number for the unit.

still curious if this is the best way to clean the lifters out, im thinking i should start soaking the set from the spare head i have at home, so that they are useable when the motor is together. also curious on hoy the lifters should feel when not under pressure.. should they be stiff or move freely?