Craved

i used a single resister with them all running series from memory.. 1.5 volt hi brights.. i just asked the jaycar assistant aswell .. they told me which one to use and it worked fine .. one day i might unbolt it and get the part number for that resister and double check.

there is one for sale for $30 in the for sale section .. dont remember the thread name, but the guy has a link to a ns.com thread for his pics

the pictures i posted in their regarding the restrictors are from the tomei website. the restrictors just need to be placed on top of the std one already in place in the block. you could try removing the old one, but there is not much need for that, as the restrictor is of smaller diameter so the larger version below/ before the smaller restrictor will not make an effect on the system or oil delivery.

now do mine oh and chat me before you send mine off, i have a little request first

UAS sell the Sard as per item requests $230 each with collars and 0 - rings and i'd put the new one in Cyl 6 www.nismo.com.au

yup yup gotcha .. might enlist the assistance of a G clamp in there somewhere ... just to make it easier. that should holt the hat and the base square to each other. thanks again Ash

there is a thread by Sydneykid that has a wideband lamder sensor kit, and full system built that is cheaper than that from memory http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=91356&st=0

SWEET, exactly what i wanted to hear thanks Ash.. will give it a go this weekend

hmm wonder what happened to mine then .. i wonder what the angle is and wether they take the back or front of the car..

Heya guys, Just checking about external gates. how much spring pressure is on the top section of the WG .. i just got a new Tial external Gate, with 1.2 Bar springs already installed. I want to remove the .2 helper spring and just run the 1 bar using the EBC for the other 3psi so i can drop the boost down on the track (std internals on track at 18psi .. hmm ) basically just checking if some kind of press is required to install/change these springs. i just remember a turbosmart workshow article in a zoom mag, and saw them using a press to squash the units together before bolting it together is this required, or can you do it by hand?? cheers

like these? http://www.apracing.com/car/pedalbox/pboxp2.htm

same thing my ebay one was/is doing, hence the upgrade to tial 38mm i payed around $500 for brand new tial 38mm.. not sure if that would be big enough for you, think it would. that was with the the 1.2 bar sping .. so 18psi - actually runs 2 springs for that pressure i posted a thread about sizing etc here it is http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=43638&st=0 aaron @ sliding performance - slide on the forums is who i got it from, ask him if he can get the springs for you

i went through without a tag about 2 months ago, still havent heard about it either

just bought a new tial external gate has 1.2 Bar springs in it .

ditto on the ebay WG .. if you want more boost always try to get the WG's spring as close to the desired "low boost" setting you want, and that shouldn't be far from your MAX boost either .. allows for the best form of boost control. get a better WG and spring and you wont need a boost controller.

check that the plug in the hicas unit near the diff is plugged in, same with the hicas computer under the parcel shelf

got any more details? exhaust entry flange type? front and Rear A/R wheel trims etc?

rb26's have only 1 oil feed from factory. the tomei restrictor goes over the top of the std restrictor in place best idea would be to read this thread .. http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=110680&hl= has pics of where to put the restrictors etc

this might help explain why the fuel relay isn't getting any power .. as i believe its fed via the ECCS might have to bribe you with a case one day to have a look MAtt

i have this issue - sort of - only mine clicks on and off like twice then starts the car fine ... does it more if a little low on batt power

got a multimeter to test the voltage on the battery? should be 13.8V or close to that.. if its well below that and it stays low even when revving it up it could be a loose belt or an issue with the alternator

R & R is very aggressive when i had it.. it wouldn't be described as a flat spot, cos it farts and carries on .. well mine did ..

im pretty sure that this is for extra midrange. i have read the solenoid switches at 1500rpm then back at 4500 i would think it would be slightly gradual since its pressure related transition.

i dunno about you, but i would NOT drive through a puddle deep enough to get large amounts of water in there.

yes, rb20 and rb25 exhaust side gaskets are the same