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Craved

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Everything posted by Craved

  1. the air feed on the side is fed straight from the plenum. the fitting on the top is from your EBC.
  2. the water return is the lower fitting on the right hand side of the pic , at the end of the chain and has white dots on it... the one above it is the feed. ps .. not my pics .. cant remembers whos that are either
  3. worked on my issue of the weekend .. installed new splitfire coils, and found that i already had BKR6EY plugs gapped at 0.6 .... its ALOT better but i still get hessitations(missing) over 15 psi of boost .. have a set of BCPR7ES i gapped to 0.8 sitting there to try as well.. but from what i have read the 0.6 gap shouldn't affect anything at all.. so i'll have to continue investigating..
  4. you would need a blue slip done on the car with the rb30, basically to test that the engine block wasn't stolen and to have it changed on your registration... this is in NSW though
  5. you could use copper rod at the diameter of the feed, after you knock down the original restrictor .. pretty sure this has been suggested as an alternate to the purchase of a tomei style restrictor when you can use copper rod with a hole drilled to custom specs ..
  6. looks alot like coilpack issues to me, though that wouldn't explain any issues with 0.8 gapped plugs notice alot more black smoke out the back of the car when it is missing? i see more when mine does it, unburnt fuel.
  7. distilled water = im on tank water so i dont have the nasties from normal tap water, so i would suggest yes if you can afford it flushing agent = is like a nulon or something (small bottle like octane booster injector cleaner etc) ... you dont have to do this. if you look in the radiator cap and see lots of rusty coloured gunk. either use a high pressure hose, or pay a radiator place to flush the radiator (if temps are an issue this would be recommended) coolant = i run the green Nulon concentrate, running to about 30% mix . note the more coolant you use the less heat transfer the fluid has, but higher boiling point.. so more does not mean it will cool better.
  8. looks like the exhaust cam would help though
  9. there are 2 plugs there .. 1 with 2 wires, the other has 3 fuel pump has 2 wires going into its plug .. fuel level has 3 . earth on fuel pump would be the black one on that system.. all you would need to do it to solder on another wire that is earthed locally onto the existing earth wire.
  10. the wires too the dimmer could have fallen off.. mine was very badly installed.. worth a check if you cant see any fuses out... edit : does the air con unit and head deck dim when you turn on the lights .. if not that means it isn't getting power.. which would support the fuse/wiring issue rather than blown globes
  11. thats an issue with any T peice, cant explain why though off the plenum somewhere is the best place to get the pressure feed from if you put it on the piping before the IC you will notice more drop off with the intercoolers restriction.
  12. im pretty sure Sydneykid stated a 60kw loss through skyline drivetrain in RWD .. so thats 80HP. awkw to rwkw no idea lol
  13. hmmm ok then . lol cant really know on a laurel lol whoops missed that detail, was curious about the chrome though lol good luck though
  14. you see my other post?? they are held in with little plastic fingers only... try moving it back, then up.
  15. 30/25/26 all use the same thermostat..
  16. you still use a sealant with them. but the falcon one i got seemed to be fairly generic, but seal fine
  17. pretty sure that goes hand in hand with the word genuine. use BA falcon generic seals.. look fine or look up a bit regarding the GTR seals by beer baron
  18. pretty sure you need to slide them back towards the rear of the car and then left them .. from memory .. been years
  19. i used a nissan thermostat replacement, and used a silicon style selant for use in cars. comes in a little bottle with a brush. leave that to dry recommended time before starting anything with coolant etc. 1. drain radiator and fluch out with hose from top and bottom hoses. 2. take the theromstat housing out and replace thermostat, then re-gasket back in place. 3. replace thermo housing, and all hoses 4. think the system is 10L for skylines, so work out how much coolant you will need as per mix instructions on bottle. add that much coolant to radiator. 5. top up with water til its full 6. turn ignition on and set heater to full. 7. start car and let it run to heat up. topping up radiator as it drops. 8. once system is near to temp and doesn't seem to be needing anymore water, put radiator cap on 9. unplug the bleeder bolt, without removing it, til the bubbles stop coming out and only water is leaving the thread. do it up and away you go.
  20. aac valve adjustment on the plenum? check the power FC FAQ in paulr33 sig above your post for FC related options
  21. why limit your choices because of possibly $200 max worth of water and oil lines??? choose the turbo that meets your requirements and do what is needed, otherwise you'll be unhappy with it. plenty of the garret/hks turbos will fit, and adpater plates are available to allow you to keep the std manifold..
  22. friday night .. never gonna happen here
  23. also remember that it's be easier to move the cam with a large shifter by the CAM than trying to move the whole crank etc to line up the 4 degree marker on the cam gear. will be interesting to see what kind of difference they make on the rb20
  24. yeah i understand the volatges etc .. just if your your burning the element hotter at a higher voltage, i would be expecting their lifetime to be reduced as well.. just weighing up the extra brightness with rewiring the lights etc, to just installing the 60 or 70 watt globes to start with.
  25. possibly since they are stated to run on 12V and they could have issues at higher voltages
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