Craved

Another little update, took a while to cut out the shape, but the new holder for the ID3 display is mostly ready. Just need to work out a mounting option for it, and get some velcro to hold it in place..

Only reason i would need the 1000's is if i want to go E85 for the IM240 test. still its tempting if they seem to idle well at that size

rochesters run the 14mm oring on top ? alot of things need to change to run the rochesters so i will need to have a think about it

cheers Andrew, kinda running out of things i can do until i get the block back from the machine shop, or can get a 7/8 inch hole saw for my notcher so i can finish off the front bar support

sent you a PM, if you can check it out and let me know. Cheers

quick clean makes a difference

With everything closed it was time to tackle some of a little jobs that i didnt need materials or tools for. R34 GTR passenger seat mounts were modded by welding on the stock seats mounts back to the rails. Also installed the new painted dash to get it back to a more stock look, removing the guage holes and will let me start working on the new guage holder in the DINN area. next for this area is to mod the gear shift around to hold the ID3 display, then paint it to match. bottom dash pieces will have to stay out until the RB26 loom and ecu is ready to go in

hot pipe is done for now, will finish weld it later as im not the best alloy welder, especially on this thin wall tube

makes perfect sence, the 2nd time i read it lol simple design but would be true each time like you say. i'll remember that, but alas i dont have the gear to make good use of it

yep, lobster is looking easier for this pipe just cant decide, dont want to mix the 2 piping styles too much so was looking for ways to do it better. would be alot easier with a vertical bandsaw, but the small ones i have used were crap as a vertical saw

Found a use for the side clamps in the cleco kit - strong little buggers too

should make it easier Andrew, as you can cut the reinforced areas out without affecting the chassis strength as to guard clearance, if you are going to run big tyres, and over alot of rough terrain the axles are going to move to some crazy angles. so unless the body lift as very noticable to may have issues with the tyres contacting the guards. for example my r33 front guard openings are only 28 inchs wide. most 4WD's will run 33 inch tyres or similar

got any tricks for clamping a donut in the small vice on those types of saws? think i worked out a way with the angles clamped the 180 down to a bench and marked the exact centre, then used a protractor from that point squared up to the bench. i THINK that should mean that the tube will remain 3inch on the cut

Working on my intercooler piping atm Just after some tricks on working out the angles and easy ways to cut up a welded alloy donut - 3 inch Cheers

some 3 inch tube dummied up for the hot pipe passthrough

Next step will be to work on the intercooler piping on the hot side. Need to wait until i get some new rollers for my MIG so i can run 0.6mm wire to connect these 2 4inch stainless steel sections into the body work. I designed them this way as i was cutting through the silicon joiners as they passed through the factory holes, so angled how i need them for better pipework design and a CAI for the airbox i'll build later on.

Bit of progress Always hated how unsecure the front bar was, dealing with bolts into the guards and spacers between the lights. This basically allowed alot of movement when driving leading to rattles etc. As you can see below im working on a new reo for the bar, tied into the 8mm plate steel mounts for the intercooler. So in order to secure the front bar in a way that allows for fairly easy removal i made up some mounting points that were attached to the front bar. Then triangulated some supports to hold it in place while i removed the bar Then once removed i linked them to the support bars. then reinstalled the bar to test it out PERFECT! so sturdy, and just with these 2 mounting points Next step is to connect the rear of the bar to another support, so this will remove the connection to the front guards. So to hold it in place until i've finished the new mounts i use the panel clamps i got in my Cleco kit.

http://magnehelicgauge.com/ can be got on US ebay

Was thinking of using that on the roof lining atleast But main aim is to get it road worthy and engineered. which means getting this motor finished Block was just dropped off at the machinists for an acid bath, all welsh plugs and gallery plugs are being removed. Then we'll check the piston to bore clerance to ensure the stock pistons are still fine in the bore If not, i'll have to try the other 2 blocks i have

Just less reverberation when shutting the door, like nice new cars checkout ebay US too for the dynamat, definately cheaper than buying locally even when the dollar wasnt as good as it is now

i got a mega pack from the USA, was a long time ago so dont remember the price now as for how it works, well i havent driven the car since doing it haha i did notice that from doing the front half of the rear quarter panel (under the 1/4 window) that opening and closing the door has more of a thump to it than before. thats without touching the front doors yet i have 2 sheets left out of the 9 sheets in the pack which did the 1/4 guards and the rear seat area you see in the photos. I think to finish the front half of the cabin and the boot i'll need another 2 boxes.

Did a little investigating.. Turns out i have Type B poncams in the RB26 head, so nows it is time to do a little research on how these will affect the power level and dilivery.

seems like alot of crank collars available these days, but from $75 to $200 its hard to know which one to get

cheer mate, re: handbrake Im using a 2 piece rotor on the rear. specially made rear alloy hat is hard annodised for durability, but still cannot withstand the use of the handbrakes shoes on it while in motion.

Powdercoated my own set of RB26 covers while i was prepping some other parts (been sitting in powder primer waiting to go for near 2 months) , really like this colour Love how the RB26 looks So after some thinking about engineering and the work i need to do with piping and ceramics on the hot side i've finally decided to build my RB26/30 Only bits left to get are : AAC and IAC Injectors new PowerFC - hoping to score a D-jetro New Exhaust Manifold Oil pump Crank Collar VRS kit everything else i have already collected - so hopefully i can get the crank collar soon and installed on the crank asap then i'll be assembling the motor myself, nothing fancy just rebuilding the rb30e block to standard as im not after big power, just a bit more drivability.