Craved

hoses are on the outside of the car... uses plastic pipes direct from the core to go through the firewall.. so wont be hoses or clamps.. i guess unless its leaking outside and running into the holes..

you could empty your radiator, then fill with water mixed with a flushing agent, then drain and fill up as normal. there is a drain plug on passenger side of the radiator, undo that (or the bottom hose) fill the rad to the top with your water/coolant mix. then start the car with the heater on. let it run for a while and the coolant level will drop, keep filling it up as it drops... once the car is up to temp. put the cap on the radiator, and then bleed the system further using the bleed point at the front of the plenum. 12mm bolt with a heta warning sticker. open that and let the bubbles come out, once no more bubbles come out, tighten it up and away you go.

i used BA falcon seals on my front and rear screens, but that was 33 .. but i doubt there would be much thickness difference in the glass itself.. and it just came in a length, years ago now, but was only just over $120 or so for front and rear from o'briens.

you might wanna block the return pipe from the turbo's inlet pipe too.

if its leaking, you probably just need new hosing for it. pretty sure its about 100mm long piece of water hose connecting the back of the plenum's water feed to a steel pipe runing around the back.. it is a fiddly job, but def not an engine out thing

pretty sure SK put in that in the long term the coppers are cheaper anyway..

well that would depend on how the SAFC affects the tune within the std ECU .. if it does and has its own base map. then your economy will probably be affected.

any external pump needs to be boxed anyway to be legal. so you can line your box around the external pump and hoses with sound proofing material and not hear a thing. just a thought..

if its definately throttle realted, try checking the voltages on the TPS. no one i know hits full throttle on idle.. only other thing is it could be fuel pressure related as the std fuel pressure wont change on idle, as there is no boost to get it change on the FPR.

use a straight edge.. but i think they were talking about manifold to head surface.. cant see 0.8 warp in the turbo flange on the manifold.. funny that the t3 flange for the inlet is more than the turbo/dump gasket..

bleed the radiator again, using the tap near the plenum that has the label "do not open when hot" other test is for exhaust gas in the cooling system.. they put it over the cap and it changes colour if gases are in it... for $330 for a cometic metal gasket and time if your mechanically minded then you can fix it up easy and cheap if it does show gas.

yeah.. im running 0.6 and still having issues .. splitfires are about to go in.. hope it fixes it for you

could be a coil pack issue.. i have the same thing happening try dropping your spark plug gap to like 0.6mm and see if it helps

i think he means that once you nick a H beam it dramatically weakens its structure as it uses a design to be strong when complete, and the thickness of the H in the rod isn't really thick.. only analogy i can think of is an alluminum can if your a light weight you can stand on one without it crushing, but if you tap it on its side while on it, it'll crumple real quick.. same sort of principal.

yeah sorry didn't get a chance to check mine... but in that thread, the photos show that the numbers are not all the same .. will have to check the 05U41 bit against a set of std rb25 rods.

that would depend on the G/box and diff you have.

sure just gotta go find that box of bits lol

440cc for GTR injectors.. yeah $120 is what we payed for 6 bmw injectors.. so seems normal

try ringing nissan ? or an import mechanic/shop you trust.

12.0 - 12.5 is usually the best AFR for on boost. 14.7 or so when cruising to save fuel bouncing is from the closed loop used on cruise to save fuel. ==== catch can with oil in it .. = not the best..blowby which is usually rings etc worn . get a comp test done to see how your engine is going.. i got about 145 on all cyl's and it doesn't have blowby.

head oil restrictor - http://www.hioctaneracing.com.au/ in parramatta .. $13 ACL race bearings - cant get them til you measure the clearances etc on your crank pistons, and main bearings.

i have been told by a mechanic that the H beam are lighter than the I-beam while still remaining strong. so are good for revvy engines. sure there will be alot of different opinions.

Shaun, what temp based switch did you use to activate the thermos? did you see any difference with the std shroud on v's off ?? as it would cause a restriction now that air is pushed through it rather than being pulled through it? temp issues at idle in the city?

pretty sure they have a part number in the casting on the i section of the rod, that will tell you. have a set of each at home, but yeah no photos hear at work with me

have you done a search, been covered alot lately (last month or so) depends on the fans you use and the shrouding you fabricate.. if your willing to spend the time to get it right (and the money) then go for it..