Craved

paul, have noticed that the closed loop on the power FC doesn't seem as good as on the std ecu. when cruising it A) doesn't bounce the AFR guage as much B) only seems to do it when slightly accelerating and sits within stoich while holding the throttle in one spot. C) when holding the throttle in one spot and its not bouncing, increased load on the engine (say a slight hill) it will start working. not that its running too bad, im at 300km and 1/3 tank left.

hahah thats not very nice .. Gday Ed .. long time no see. John you rude f**ker ... off my page lol

perhaps seeing a trimming place to see if they can retrim the leather.

will sound like an exhaust leak.. does your old sensor screw into the hole in the cat? if so, take it in and get a bolt place to match the thread type and bolt size.. the red light on the dash you'll have forever is sort of annoying lol ... also on r33's i know they have a plug under the passenger seat that you can unplug the bit of wire you cut. your car might have this 2

you need to cut the std return pipe and get a longer bit of rubber pipe.... bolt it up, then run the new piping to the return half of the BOV

everytime i see someone say they had a walbro, they replaced it with a bosch .. swap it for a 040 and you wont need to ask these questions but this has been asked SOOO many times...

i was lucky, when mine snapped, i was taking the head off anyway and getting it serviced, so i got mine replaced then and again i went all new studs and nuts when putting the new one, but exhaust guy replaced them for me.. there is like $40 worth of studs in there, so $120 for that prick of a job is pretty good.

Dan, you using your hazard switch and demister switches? and the cup holder in the centre console? and how are your gear boot and handbrake boot?

thats what i usedto get at 50km trips each way to and from work.. on 11 psi.. but a fair bit of cruising currently getting about 13L/100kms with 294rwkw.. so needs a light load tune redone.

400km is pretty good though umm main things to check are the O2 sensor in the exhaust can cause worse economy.. turn the boost back to std 7psi at least.. actuator will allow this.. try a reset on the ecu, also check it for error codes..

how many kms you get out of a tank? and what car is it?

also the throttle position sensor will look like a single unit on the S1 and look like a double on a series 2 .. but that still doesn't help the fact that a S2 made before oct 97 will still not be able to use these.

youd think i'd get a sleep in on me birthday huh .. thanks people, back to bed for me

duration 256 lift 8.5 + they are for post oct 97 series 2 cars .

you should be able to see the model it is for from your nengun recipt and match the order part number.. check the site and see whether you got the s1 set or s2 set..

AAWWWW FANKS guys, and gal oh and can always take more mods ... build rb30 anyone??? thanks

ummm you got me, i actually dont know as far as i was aware it didn't actually change the rate as the psi rose.. otherwise you wouldn't really need to increase it when you increase boost..

well that would depend on how much fuel pressure you want to run... 1.7 psi per 1psi of boost .. or 1psi per 1 psi of boost??

also believe that the base circle is different on them too.. what is the product serial number for the cams you have ? what is the month and year of your car as well?? pre oct 97 R33's all use the same cam regardless of series.. post oct 97 use the Series 2 option poncam, then r34 is different again.

yeah fuel smell is a big problem.. mine is pretty bad, but thats due to not boxing the system yet. if i was you, sell the tomei pump, drop a std one back in there as a lift pump.. also its common for the std wiring to not like running the kind of amps that the fuel pumps require.. my suggestion is to use the existing feed to power a relay that has direct power from your battery. gives better voltage at the pump which keeps flow rates up.

tried replacing the hoses that your using for the wastegate feed? cos if it cracks then it wont control your boost... cost abo bob an engine

well if it is in good condition then sure re-use it .. if its cracked at all. get a new one. and try to torque the bolts up as even as possible

wont need to adjust the cam gear on exhaust side as most results have shown best results at 0deg adjustment .. but if you have the dyno time to test it out.. go for gold try a cometic metal gasket... std thickness and cheaper than a nissan oem ..can handle 18psi from a 3040 so you should be right with the 2835 .. gates belts are meant to be stronger than the factory ones, and are about the same price . with the 550cc injectors i doubt you would need the FPR either at only around 250rwkw

only other thing is that the wastegate cannot allow enough gas out to allow the lower boost setting or the wasegate is sticking and not opening fully to allow that boost reading. ..... what sort of supporting mods do you have? and does it hold at 14.7 psi once it gets there?

o0o0o 29th is a saturday .. might be able to make it lol