Craved

they are tomei poncams, direct replacement for the std cams.. retains std hydrolic lifters and springs

haha Morgs .. that offer over $10 exhaust .. is for the full exhaust setup and canon .. the rusty one with the hole in it pic? this one? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...e=post&id=14369

and today they work now to find the time to watch them......

i was talking to my exhaust guy, and most aus shops dont really stock 3.5" piping.. its a shame really.. even worse was my old Kakimoto running 3.25 " .. very hard to find a resonator in that size . going to have to look into a twin 3" system in mine once the rb30 goes in, single now is way too loud, but brand new so i'll try and squeeze another 3" down under there aswell

picked up the new 0.87 housing off Doughboy tonight.. once i have the turbo off for this swap i'll have to get the ID tag number to see if we can double check the specs of the turbo..im guessing we will know the compressor trim etc from that number ?? does having the boost available lower in the rev range increase the load on the engine? std internals still dont want it to hit too hard though, since now it doesn't break traction til about 5500 - 5800 allows me to be a bit more progressive on the power .. alot of options out there, and even more questions heres one more .... with the boost dropping off at the end of the rpm range.. would this be due to taking the boost feed from the hot pipe off the turbo? and not from the plenum? so the restriction in the IC could cause it to reduce the boost since the hot side of the cooler is more pressurised than the cool side/plenum? is it better to run the WG pressure feeds from the plenum basically

well you cant say a certain boost pressure is what an engine can take.. difference cams can affect the compression ratio hence allowing you to run more boost. the main thing that will hurt the engine is the tune, not boost. also remember that each turbo can flow different rates at each level of psi.. for example : HKS 2535 at 18 psi tops out at 250rwkw where as a HKS GT3040 at 18 psi is pushing 300rwkw.. both these engines tuned at the same place, sam cam specs injector sizes and mgmt ECU..

line from IC piping/plenum -- bleed valve -- wastegate . block off this third line.. then adjust your bleed valve to the 12psi setting

here ya go http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=109094&hl= umm to search uptop, click search type name in username section on the right. and select classifieds on the left hand side scrolling box

hahaha i downloaded firefox specifically since i couldn't get it in IE lol might try it on another pc

pretty sure doughboy has one for sale atm , check the for sale or do a search under his name

i couldn't download it, it would just dl a 1Kb file

never worked for me on my pc ..

lossen your BOV off if you want it to go off at lower pressures... that said.. it wouldn't have much pressure in the pipe work with a STD turbo and off boost

lossen your BOV off if you want it to go off at lower pressures... that said.. it wouldn't have much pressure in the pipe work with a STD turbo and off boost

that all said, you could take that top pipe to a welders shop with a brass fitting from enzed and get them to braize it where you want it.. not hard to do, but not really pretty either.

definately looks like its gonna be alot of fun street driven Fatz? love to see the list of things needed to get it engineered and running on the street

wouldn't see an issue with it, just make sure it seals REALLY well .. use cable ties on your joins and should be fine.. check all teh hoses for any cracks, or just use new ones.. cos if it leaks your boost will spike and you'll have big issues..

run the boost control from the plenum.. will give less drop in the positive pressure reading. the r33 turbo does not have the outlet on the turbo itself. the r32 turbo has this outlet..

nice .. might check this out on tune time i think too..

taught me alot .. nice info there Disco

starters are that the head bolts are different sizes ... id be interested to see how you would block the vct oil feed in the block and the rb26 doesn't use it.. other than that, without knowing what car its going into its hard to say how much trouble you might have .. but the rb25 ecu should eb able to run the rb26 head, just without the intake temp sensor working. im sure you could do it, but for the cost of an rb30 bottom end and the PROVEN power from that, all i can suggest is to go that route.. nothing is usualy impossible, just impractical.

the VCT solenoid is the hexagonal thing coming out of the side of the head near the end of the fuel rail and the water outlet... its a simple on/off solenoid which allows oil to flow into the unit on the end of the cam shaft, and change the advance/retard on the cam. i actually believe that its "on" from about 1500 to 4500 and OFF before and after that.. so you actually sound like you want it off. you can do a run with the solenoid unplugged and see if it helps your results, but i dont think it will..

well i have just told Doughboy i'll take the 0.87 housing from him ... few things gonna be done at once new wastegate new splitfires new sparkies at 0.8 instead of the 0.6 i have to run now new rear housing and a new tune. also think i might have a leak under the plenum, so i'll take that off and try to sort that too.. so about 2 weeks i'll have the new tune and we'll see the difference it makes

well the cost of high flowing turbos.. youd be better off getting some 2530's on the rb26 are proven to be a good combo .. plenty of response and good power. pretty sure twoogle was running the 2530's with well over 400kw .. check out the rb26 upgrade thread ..

hmm might get the new dump mad up when i go the rb30 as it'll be sitting the 30mm higher anyway.. then run twin 3" so i can still use the pipe i have now.. see if it'll fit when i change the WG. ahh yeah thanks for that info Discopotato03 .. makes sense hmm so need to see if i can get a 0.87 housing..