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Craved

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Everything posted by Craved

  1. from what i remember S1 R33 and s2 R33 run different style clutch setups r34 run the same as S2 R33 .. just cant remember which is push and which is pull..
  2. start with an open track day at wakefield park ... only wall you come close to is on main straight... its in golbourne so a bit of a hike, but very open track with very little chance of damage. $40 for a 12 month licence $80 for the day
  3. i just hope - for the sake of his family and friends- that its not contagious oh and congrats on the new car
  4. you gotta be really dumb to do that..
  5. im gussing the RB20 has the water feed through the throttle body like the R33 .. what did they do with that? i have the plazmaman planum and there is no bleed for the radiator... just have to be patient on bleeding the radiator manualy via the turbo water feed, or the rad cap.
  6. dont cut it unless you want an annoying red light on your dash on all the time yes you can take the globe out, but thats a hassle lol
  7. i would probably use the mount point on the left next to the oil filler and the bracket that the cross over pipe bolts onto to lift it from.. rather than the manifolds.
  8. extra hint to lift the car up onto stand first... so you have room for the GB to swing down far enough for the motor to clear the rad support. the accident damage might make it a lil harder but you should be right!
  9. guys this is from the FYI section http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...85225&hl=heater its easy as.. just keep all sections bolts separate for easy reinstall.
  10. what is the thread on the oil pressure sender unit? if they are NPT thread, doesn't look like you could put the sender in there ( not enough room) maybe run a 45 degree elbow from the NPT fitting out to the sender.. so its more of a Y fitting
  11. works out nearly the same cost as the splitfires once you get an auto elec to change the wiring..
  12. i used turps on mine, took a bit of scrubbing but it worked.. just try not to get it on your seals .. then clean it with window cleaner as the turps can leave a white residue
  13. ok thats didn't make much sense .. but for Z32 afm's you need a power fc or other programmable ecu.. std ECU will not run them
  14. i used the std seal used on new falcons, you cut it to size yourself and works a treat.. looks brand new, the old one is hard and mine couldn't be re-used .. got it from o'briens too. used it on the front and rear, looks great.
  15. i have seen this done, the thread was on r31skyline forum. or look here http://gdz1la.kol.co.nz/prod01.htm
  16. looks like the grain of wheat ones as used in the air con unit .
  17. looks like there will be alot of hazard and demister switches getting pulled apart soon lol dont think any R33 i've been in has ever had them work .. one day i'll get to fixing this too.
  18. you want to know how hot the water is coming out of the engine, so its the top hose. std water temp guage sender is in the top hose as well. if you were putting it in the bottom one, all you would know is how well your radiator is working ..
  19. i picked up a complete SII RB30E for $350 on the R31skyline forums http://www.r31skylineclub.com/ only thing i didnt get was the as for the RB26, keep looking or go to a wreckers and pick one up.
  20. that reminds me , the turbos water feed runs behind the RB25 head ... which means even less room .. looks like the metal line will have to go if this drain is used
  21. what sort od price are they
  22. or just use a switch to a relay off the fuel pump power .. to stop it turning on
  23. hmm fair enough
  24. hmm the RB30E i just pulled apart was like that, and mad flakes of it on the pistons my RB25DET was heaps cleaner when i had the head off that, same with the pistons.. pretty much just discolouration not a coating like that.
  25. R33's have electric motor for the rear steering... there is no fluid for it
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