Craved

heard that the NEO runs GTR rods, theres a plus there.

under the centre vents in the dash, next to the hazard switch

check the injectors seals too, can leak pertrol out of those .. just an idea

oh sorry, yeah the hazard light switch doesnt, from any i have seen, then again even my aircon unit doesn't light up (missing the bulbs) cant remember about the demister, havent had it plugged in for about 2 years

loose or missing bolts on the turbo can cause this as well. get in there, take the heat shield off and have a good look. no boost is an issue though.. check the wastegate actuator arm while your there.

on the RB25 it runs through the inlet manifold then out the back and around the back and into the turbo. you could loop them, or block the feed into the manifold and just put a bolt in the block on the turbo side.

it doesn't light up i have moved mine and there isnt any way for it to light up

aftermarket guages come with their own sender ... thats why you use a T piece so they are both hooked up and working (even if stock one is wrong)

the sender is screwed into the block about 1.5 inches the rear of the engine from the oil filter. you would replace or use a T piece to screw in both senders. ( i have a thing about dash guages still working even though i have aftermarket) in the pic below the sender is screwed in where the line going from bottom left to top right of the block is.

you will need to get an adpater made/bought to allow you to put into the top hose thats between the radiator and the engine... you'd need to cut a section out of the hose, and insert the adapter, then sela with hose clamps

the manual doesn't even list the RB20DET... does it have the water line coming around the back of the head like the RB25 ?

so you have a pipe from the feed to the return already? as long as there is a hose between the old lines it cant really be the wrong way .. i'll check the manual for you though.

SK, any chance of a pic of one you have setup with the rear drain.. that welsh plug is pretty large, is there usually room behind the head for a 90 deg bend of a earls fitting the entire size of the welsh plug? or do you braze in a smaller fitting then use a 90 to a braided line..

could affect the Hicas system im guessing .. SLD is easy .. 3 wires.... or just get the power FC or the pivot unit,. it has a fnacy display thingy

here ya go ... http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...ST&f=8&t=110618 specifically the post i put in post #22 dyno runs are good, but think of the time on one, to get the 600Kms or so before you can start tuning it completely.. im guessing if your changing the motor, making sure that the AFR are good up to the level of RPM that you want to run it in with. then do the long drive run in process. there are alot of different ideas on this... also remember to prime the oil pump before you start it... been a few posts about this lately.

you might wanna look at the dyno results section at the top of the forced induction page.

i have an old HKS SLD at home from when i had std ecu ... or you cut that 1 wire.. cant remember the one

there are plenty of threads giving flow rates of the walbro pumps at given voltages.. seems that walbro need higher voltages to match the sort of flow. i wouldn't use one ever.. 044 bosch is in tank. 044 is external..

hahah guess i better not hit redline in 5th again .. 270kph... yikes

Power FC

did you do any other work to the motor, cams or port/polish etc? still awesome results though mate.

haha i did read again .. how about you?

maybe try in the VIC section

im guessing there is a plug for the ABS unit, and its still plugged in... start simple oh and are you using the RB20 ECu to run the 26 ?

i'll have a look tomorrow when i get home.