Craved

i cant see how it could be rated at 500hp the compressor housing is very small but should be responsive.. most 500ps rated turbos have around 0.70 compressor housings.. and the rear housing is small but will give good response, but might choke.. lets see if someone who knows more about it says ... *waits for Ash to come on lol

3 weeks without driving it would kill most batteries when the car has a good alarm and some extra electrical add ons.. mines a 550CCA battery, and it'll die (well not enough to crank the car) after about 2 weeks. jump start from the battery direct is fine too.

guage could be out, or you might have the extra boost due to exhaust etc (never seen this actually happen) 11psi is ok as leech_ said incase it spikes.. and yes Joe, they are the devil, but $22 V's $900 for an I-colour is a big difference

thanks ben

hey, im sitting here at work, more than happy to answer any question i have an answer for

so the GTR springs fit in all RB25 heads Joel ?

it will be fine to use on your car.. consensus is that 14 psi is dangerous for the turbo..(possible turbine wheel delaminating and ending up in your cat) i ran 11psi through mine for years before upgrade.. your std IC will be a major restriction, but it would be fine to run 11psi through it. upgrade your IC as one of your first mods if you want that little bit extra power.

oh that bit is gold!

i thought it had to be wet sand... mixed with cement powder

Hi5's

rewired mine very similar to Cubes, only im running mine with separate relays for each pump with their own power feeds to and from the relay. std R33 pump filling the surge tank, then 044 feeding the engine. i do take it to the track, hence my running it this way.. all the tank and lines are up on the shelf above the fuel tank, with the battery moved to the side of the actuall boot.

pretty sure the RB25de head will take them, havent seen any info on the RB25DET head being able to use them .. gotta ask, why not use the rb26 head? if its a GTR

would love to get some details on how much and where you got the above parts from.. looking into this kind of setup on a rb25/30 but the tomei rplacement valve springs and solid lifters are unavailable. cheers

maintenance or the general discussion areas. but oh well hard to tell you how to wire it, since i cant see whats missing. when i installed the blinkers in my 400r bar i cut the std Mspec lights plug of and wired into the new lights.. that way i could use the factory plugs to be able to unplug them when the bar comes off. parkers, they are simply the smallest plug there.. it should be just a matter of putting the connection onto the back of the globe. once again. not enough info to tell you what needs to be done

pon cams from Tomei are always straight bolt in. their Pro cam sets are the ones that require upgraded valve springs etc.

i havent seen the dyno sheet of his car, only been in it and watched the guages. full boost was about 17 psi... guage is in Bar and moves quick

i'd estimate with std motor no cams that it would hit full boost around 5000rpm .. and the smaller compressor A/R would limit the flow.. never seen this turbo before so im guessing. ie: gt30 with 0.86 rear housing hits full boost at 4700rpm my gt3040 with 1.12 rear housing hits boost at same rpm but i have tomei cams assisting with the spool times.

the hack is to use the std boost solenoid to run the 7psi instead of changing it from 5psi to 7psi.. dunno how to do it myself. manual boost solenoid.. removes the std nissan one. and you set the boost you require and leave it.

was my understanding that the VCT feed didn't lubricate the head, only pressurised the inlet cam VCT unit, then drained directly back down and not out in the head to feed the lifters and lubricate the cams etc... i could be wrong of course.

wouldn't mind some details on the turbo blowing .. was it blowing smoke? cause it wouldn't be the rear wheel as your getting boost..

here ya go http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...088&hl=bathurst which way to bathurst do you go Gary? via penrith and motorway? or though bells line with lots more hills ??

umm dont think anything else could cause it.

oh i run a blitz ID3 so i never read that thread.. if your i doubt, run new hoses from the plenum/IC pipe to the controller, then new ones to the actuator.. no chance of a restrictor that way.

i replaced all my hoses too, cannot harm anything.. bit of piece of mind.. left overs are good for fixing split water hoses too

noise an power loss definately sounds like a (edited for SK ) : excess airflow protection mine was caused by the air filter element falling out of the pod and the boost spiking to near 16 psi.. dont know what the turbotech is so im not sure what to say about the restrictor.