Craved

yeah same, thats why i was thinking the 1.5mm x 2 with the extra return line in the back of the head... i'll be getting the head and block returns "matched" the help as wells as a hone on the block feeds.

hahah slept in again... Will definately be there tomorrow Dan haha

start with checking the hose to the boost guage.. it is located in the drivers side rear of the engine bay, right in the corner. hose comes from the back of the plenum. if thats ok, check all the hose clamps on the intercooler piping. try to test with an aftermarket guage.

i would always get new pads with a machine of the rotors, so they bed in to the surface on the rotor.. could be that your rotors had a high spot in that area and the pad isn't touching completely now that the rotors are flat.

install a boost tap style controller.. you get to choose the boost you want to run for like $34

i'll agree with the RB74 pads, they are really good on the street and track. always run these. do RDA have a similar product to the DBA5000 series ? ally hat for heat transfer.. only down side is trying to get them machined requires a proper mill to get them flat as there is nothing to bolt em down with.

hahahah ok i had a look at the head before i left for work .. there are 2 welsh plugs there.. both rather large.. any details on the process of getting a fitting in there? sizes? look like about an inch i diameter for the top one, and slightly larger for the bottom one.. do you tap into,braze on a fitting to the welsh plug or run something the full size?

your clutch was making a ticking noise? haha go figure..

compression test would be the best way to tell if the bed in worked properly but you would be getting blow by in your catch can (if you have one)

ahhh.. sounds more familiar now would more than likely be your exhaust gaskets .. check turbo to manifold and turbo to exhaust gaskets.. pretty sure this will be the cause

haha thanks yeah after my upgrades had alot of issues with cooler piping. when they come off all together the car stalls out due to the AFM reading a high airflow, so dumps heaps of fuel in... this is why i mention running bad with a leaky pipe, would be putting more fule in as the turbo is sucking more air in as some is leaking and normal amount is going into the engine (boost reading) map sensor'd cars dont have this issue since they run off the manifold pressure.. is it happening all the time now? or was it a once off?

leaking BOV perhaps.. either way it would be strange to have something leaking, and still get the same boost level.. also leaks in the pressure side of the engine make them run really crap with AFM based cars.

i can say this... the kangaroo paw from DBA work great. i bought a set of DBA4000 slotted rotors.. and was supplied the wrong ones (GTR ones) which were too thick and wrong offset.. only found this out after installing them. so it marked them and they wouldn't take them back after supplying the wrong ones.. any way.. machined the slots off them to get them to fit, and they still work awesome.. almost no fade after a full 20 minute session at wake field runnin 1m 15s laps. where as the std ones would produce fade in that time. so yeah, slotted if you can afford it (noting that it should wear your pads out quicker) or std replacements using the kangaroo paw design for cooling..

i'll be picking up my T piece from enzed tomorrow, so i'll let you know

doubt anything "drop in" would give you 9,000 RPM.. cos you would want solid lifter and upgraded valve spings.. they need new valves, so you might as well run something with like 272 degrees duration and over 10mm lift. but no longer "drop in"

well the redline isn't governed by the cams directly. they would help airflow higher in the rev range. but that would also depend on your engines internals... std rods and pistons wouldn't like being over revved too much.

most places i have seen do it for about $50 a guard .. havent really seen any places i know i can trust yet though... gonna be in the same boat as you soon.

used to drive it around, but its pretty much been off the road for the last year haha it was only the wing that made me think of you.. and yeah i know wil pretty well, it was past his house anyway lol

think i may have seen you today.. on newline/boundry road.. but i was in a beatun up lancer haha was about 6:30pm ish ...

im from out near richmond (NSW) but yeah driving from out there to pennant hills is a pretty ok drive for fuel savings..

hmm i will come over tomorrow after 1pm then.. see how its coming along..

i used to whinge at 10.5 - 11L/100km.. but yeah i was doing 100km a day so it adds up lol

any chance that someone would have a pic of the rear of the cyl. head, so we can see where the welsh plug is that can be adapted for the extra return line.

what power are looking at running? since you can get over 300 rwkw using the std rail with upgraded injectors. im gonna be running the std rail and aiming for over 360rwkw on an rb25/30 with std rail.. you may not need it at all.

thats some nasty AFR's on the initial runs.. how long you been running on that tune for? did ben do much work with the around town/light load maps? how much did it set you back to tune? and how long?