Craved

would have come over Dan, but i just woke up lol and off to work in about 1.5 hours. so wouldn't have enough time to get over there and back home before work. more than likely be heading over there tomorrow if i can wake up in time lol let me know if your gonna be there.

yeah i think i saw that clay stuff at the fibreglass suppliers.. looks just like play dough... do you need to seal that? or does the resin just not stick to it? think i read somewhere last year that it will not stick to play dough .. might be the same for the clay.. cos it re-usable from what i read on the packet

turbo light isn't bad, not too thin.. if you are really worried, take it to a couple of workshops to ask them.. thats if your somewhere that has mutliple workshops familiar with the RB25

wont need the surge tank, i used to use the car for track work when it was std, and will again, thats why i did it.. you just need to make sure that the tank is over 1/4 full.. lsd, you would notice the "skipping" on tight turns in car parks... where it spins the inside wheel im just gonna see how long my diff lasts cos the i "HAVE" to change it

adjustable cam gears help with std machines too.. noticed a fair difference in one that just had this done.. stck except exhaust typical 2 degrees inlet advance, 4 degrees retard exhaust side.

was the Rb30 block using a 1.8mm restrictor as per his measurements? this is something i have been tossing up over the build, still cant get a good answer on what to run.. might just run an N1 with 1 feed of 1.5mm... options options options

it was Joel in the RB30 thread that stated the oil restrictor sizes. i'll measure as soon as i get the verniers.

but there is nothing stopping him from running it, if the AFR's are good.. it should last a while.. not like its every gear change running to the full capacity.. treat it well and it should last a while.. but yeah, wouldn't expect a couple of years out of it

will watch this thread .. but on the tomei web site they sell the restrictors, and only thing they say about the rb25 is that you shouldn't use them if still using lash (hydrolic) lifters.. interesting.. was looking at my rb30 and rb25 blocks. i thought the rb30 ones were bigger than the rb25 (visually only)

im at 294rwkw with stock internals at 18psi but i have tomei poncams. so it helps keep the boost pressure down. see how it lasts building new motor on the side to replace it once she goes

definately better than belting it... as long as you remove it without hitting the wheel its fine.. i removed mine a couple of times to hit the cover with the wire brush on a bench grinder.

Jim .. the direction would be limited by where the turbo's compressor housing sits in relation to the strut tower.. if it sits forward of it, i'd run it horrizontally. but if like mine and is next to the strut tower, you have to point in down, shouldn't need to whack it with anything if its new, but you can always remove all the bolts and carefully remove the housing completely then replace in correct location.

id go some cams , and head work .. port polish.. get them to check the valve guides stem seals too. tomei poncoms are good, or go slightly bigger HKS items. these both work with std lifters and springs.

yes it can, im running 294rwkw on a HKS version of this turbo, with std internals.. but you'll need all the backup stuff fuel pump ECU injectors new exhaust manifold external wastegate new IC piping and inlet piping exhaust dump pipe tune

cheers for the run through.. have you got any ideas on what materials are the best to use as a mold creator of complex items... basically i was watching monster garage. they had a foam type composite that the guy cut up using a saw .. was light but hard, then he covered it in fibreglass to make the item. i want something that i can manipulate then take the mold off that in fibreglass so you can produce the item.. does that make sense?

NEO's have solid lifters and GTR rods std.. also i heard higher compression... but cant comment on that since the slugs have been changed.. 044 pump, surge tank.. 550cc injectors would be fine..

got a pic of the JAP VIN plate on the firewall?

well i'll give you this idea, on 225's rear tyres im running 294rwkw with full boost at 4700rpm - GT3040 1.12 rear housing. its spins top end in 3rd gear at over 120kph.. but with better 9.5" wide rims with good tyres... you might wanna do something with your diff if using sticky tyres.. oh and runing the rb25 GB too i'd hope. fairly driveable off boost, but yeah streetable isn't really what i'd call it. can work but isn't nice for simple over takes, goota plan ahead to do it in a short distance. theres some idea's for you if i were you, plan foraround 300rwkw and as much low down as you can get..

hey Dan, gave him a copy of this document http://www.geocities.com/r32_jjc/ the rb30 DOHC pdf document from Joel's (cubes) site. the belt to use its on the last page, 1200mm long, 8mm pitch, 150 teeth, 25mm wide

what does the vacuum pump actually do? why does it make things easier?

and that pic you said you getting?

well i never .. lol just like the old pulsars.. oh well yeah hard to say how bad the ticking is without hearing it of course.. what oil is it running.. too thin and it'll make more noise..

any thoughts on using the: ROSS 2 PIECE BILLET TUFFBOND BALANCER FOR RB20/RB25 apparently 4.1kg vs 6.2kg from factory would they be suitable for the rb30 crank?

heard the RB25 fan displaces more air than the RB20 unit.. and can be swapped over wont gain you more power but will help cooling..

hydrolic lifters are fairly noisy in the R33.. but new oil and not too thin. at 90 000, if you have the cash i'd change the timing belt ( does the job of a chain but external to the motor..) just incase its been winded .. definately cant hurt injectors do tick a little of course too. and your SR20 should only have a side mounted CAS ( crank angle sensor) not a dizzy