Craved

some more details on the turbo would be good too.. like the actual model number. or at least some details like front AR, and rear AR to start.

yeah already got the wax, just making sure lol only making one off things mainly, and flat panels on glass

i had my car off the road for 4 months while respraying... then it never idled again after that .. ECU shat itself somehow, didn't work til i changed to pfc.. battery for sealed 550CCA should be around $140

series 2 have the pink sticker on the std afm

will try to get the bearing puller onto it tomorrow, if i cant, off to get a new drill bit and give that way a go. by knocko im guessing you mean slide hammer?

SAFC is a piggy back fuel controller.. but i wouldn't spend money on that if your gonna keep that turbo.. get theECU remapped or buy a new ECU... the adjustable fuel pressure regulator is simply a bandaid.

im stunned that its no pinging at 14:1 AFR up top end .. usually can run 14:1 down low before boost kicks in, but then it should be 11.5 to 12:1 .. first thing if ECU is out of the quetion, rising rate FPR 2:1 rating, to get the injectors flowing that little bit more.. just to get that AFR a bit better.... like $200 and will be alot safer than what your doing now.

quick question, how to remove the timing belt gear from the crank? any tricks?

well that would be monday night try reading this thread http://65.98.70.66/printthread.php?t=22235

um from my post above the park number your after is in here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=104405&hl= but its BCPR7ES. you would probably only need the BCPR6E for up to 14psi with a 0.8 gap

oh i have some pics from a thread on the vlcalais forum at work, if your not sure how it goes, can get em up on monday night if my description isn't sufficient.

have you already had the head welded up? and the hole drilled and tapped into the front of the head? it will feed from the oil pressure sender location just behind the oil filter. you'll need to get a T piece so you can still run the std pressure switch so your dash light doesn't keep coming on. you'll need to know the thread type on the front of the head, and the one in the T piece, then measure up the length of the braided line you'll need and an L adapter to get it to fit behind the cam gears. dont think anyone makes kits, cos its all custom work. hope this helps out

double check you have the std ECU, the Fcon Pro can use a map sensor to run the car.. since your link isn't working for me i can see what it is your pointing too... your car still have an AFM?

whats a rough guess on price for the head studs 11mm ?? also would you recommend using studs to hold the crank girdle (right word? ) ?? any part numbers etc and prices ??

old thread revival .. well not too bad, can anyone explain the vasso packing process so i can use it for when my RB30 is finished and realy to go??? cheers

try it witha jumper battery connected, noticed mine turns off and will not start the car without heaps of power.. plus it always turns on the dash lights then switches them off, clicks then they come on and car starts..

skylines use MAF sensors (air flow meter) only from factory... as far as i have seen and heard.

makes sense Gordon.. cheers

hehe i hadn't spoken to wil about why he was doing it, i sort of hijacked it a little to see if there is an other reason to change them over for power gains.. while still getting his question answered this is only since i was under the impression that the rb20 afm was only good for about 200rwkw, then rb25 was 250ish rwkw then 300+ for the z32 ..

well ACL dont seem to make them http://www.aclperformance.com.au/NissanRB26DETTBearings.htm give them a call and ask i guess

hahaha in depth is cool Joel, we dont learn otherwise dave .. 4pin = s1 and r32 ; 3 pin =s2

its gonna be asked... why would you need under sized bearings?

HAHAAHAHA i remember this thread now.. im runnning 294 rwkw with a 38mm wastgate @ 18psi so i didn't need th 22 psi you stated way back when.. issues with spark breaking down, and wastegate sticking .. new WG and splitfires to go in now.. the sticking wastegate means i really dont know how the response is as it changes everytime we ran it on the dyno.. -------------------- one thing though, no matter what it seems to drop boost up top, even with the ID3... would you suggest running the WG pressure feed from the plenum rather than the compressor outlet pipe?

yeah by MSD igniter i meant the CDI unit .. i'll have a chat to Dave (T04GTR) who is running the MSD on his GTR.. see if i can get any more info from him look forward to hearing how you go though.

MSD ignitor packs are about $950 plus the coils and lead $700 =approx $1600 where as the twin power is $600 plus $600 for splitfires extra $400 for more efficient spark production and no need for an upgrade later .. options options options... or have i got this wrong?