Craved

prob run max of about 23 psi in the RB30 im guessing so if thats all you were pushing then it all seems ok.. the ignition amplifier : is that like the HKS twin power units?? for that sort of price might be almost the same as running an MSD setup.. wouldn't be too much more when you add the HKS unit to the splitfires..

my std cast manifold cracked, so it can still happen but less likely. good luck with the conversion!

so theoretically if the R33 afm shows the same voltage for a higher air flow through it, that would mean that if you swapped the AFM's the RB20 would run leaner without changing anything. doesn't sound nice if i have read what you said correctly Joel.

just noticed that this manifold would fit both RB26 and RB25 .. wouldn't see it as being as efficient as a tube style, and the wastegate feed is in an opposite direction to the gas flow.. but still would beat any modified std log manifold with external gate flange welded on. interested to see how much room you have for the dump pipe too, with the turbo sitting so far back, will be tight to the firewall in a sylvia/180 i would think. check your prices for HKS wg's too, very pricey, might be cheaper to get the flange made than swap to HKS unit. dont go the cheap copy, they suck balls

most tials come with flanges when you get them, an exhaust shop can get a laser cut flange done custom pretty easy (for the manifold end of the wastegate feed - had to do that for exhaust flange on my turbo) then weld up a pipe to position the wastegate lower in the engine bay.. to keep some of the heat away from other gear prob quicker and easier to just get them to do the mod on the turbo feed too.

if they run the sam voltages, there isn't really any reason to upgrade then is there.. there shouldn't be any difference in them at all as they are both 80mm..?? but i swear i read somewhere that the rb20 items cant handle as much power as a rb25 item.

not adjustable.. have heard of people pulling them apart and blocking a little hole to make them louder.. each to their own stock R33 it is on the engine crossover pipe, directly above the engine and about lets say 20cm to the right of the throttle body..

well it is a good way to judge the condition of the engine, the lower the comp reading the more worn the engine is, but then again, they could replace the rings and get the comp rating back up before selling... so take it with a grain of salt, do a check to see what condition the motor at teh time of purchase .. rather than trying to use it as a guide, since there is no way to know that a 30,000 km car hasn't been absolutely thrashed without changing oil, fluids etc. motor could be just as worn as a 80,000 km engine that has been looked after a little.

so basically it is possible to use if you re wire it in and re-map the ECU to use it, similar to a Z32 on rb20.. where as a S1 AFM would be direct plug in replacement, but would still need a re-mapped ecu ??

umm no the RB30 has 1.8mm restrictors from factory.. heres the best info, as listed in the RB30 conversion thread.

PaulR33 from this forum has created a really good FAQ for the power FC on R33's. found here http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...erfc-faq.htm#40

when are you gonna be in Jamies workshop next Dan? i have a few more things to chat to him about regarding the RB30 build. might bring the car over as well for a quick checkup too, plus eddie has to make new flange adapters for my new wastegate. it never ends.....

the park number your after is in here http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...opic=104405&hl= but its BCPR7ES. hey Ash, thats good news about the coils holding that power range.. might as well install them now cheers!

I'll put a plug in for Jamie @ waterhouse auto care and Eddie @ penrith city exhaust. These guys are great! Eddie did the High mount manifold and stainless exhaust on my car ( SOUNDS AWESOME) although i have to take it back to him so he can hear it Pretty sure i have seen the pistons your going to be running Dan, they look like they will do the job perfect for your application.. pretty much been watching the build at jamies for a while now, (since the wall incident) spent alot of time chatting to Jamie about the RB30 build, as he'll be doing mine too

where abouts in sydney you from.. im tempted but are you sure they fit the 33, if you take photos, take one of the plug too are they blue lensed?

should be attempting this today or saturday.. see if i have the same issue if no one puts any hints up

my stalling issue was ECU related.. just an idea to try a swap with someone after trying all these different tests.. (im not reading 6 pages to see if this has been suggested ) went from std ECU to power FC and fixed straight away ..

any specific wax's recommended for the release agent? and atleast 4-5 coates? buffed back like a car wax

im just hoping that the splitfires will cope with 350ish rwkw on the rb30... dont wanna use these then have to upgrade when i can sell these as new just trying to plan ahead.. but even with the miss i was getting, it wasn't audible really, just could notice the drop in power on the dyno..

i got mine sitting at home if that offer is for me lol considering running a bigger system, if only MSD's weren't so expensive.

exactly what my tuner said.. im running 0.6 since the boost was blowing the spark out at 18 psi... going the split fires then back to 0.8 for me..

http://hioctaneracing.com.au/eshop/index.p...facturers_id=10 $900 + GST nengun are about $590 delivered

double post .. whoops

also add the costs of new trubo/manifold and turbo/exhaust gaskets.. i would upgrade to a split dump at the same time if you have the cash.. they make a fair bit of difference. (if you havent already) new copper gaskets on the banjo bolts are a good idea too. might not hurt to get someone to check the turbo too (couple of places so they dont try to talk you into a rebuild), just so you know your getting what you payed for..

wouldn't think it would take more than 3 hours with someone who knows what they are doing.. so 3 x $80 = $240