Craved

oh and having it sit low in the engine bay will have less underbonet temps than a high mounted WG too.. well i think so since less exhaust gas traveling high in the bay..

had a long google search.. found these 2 shots that show the return for the head i know its small link http://www.japimports.com.au/products/jap/...images/eng4.jpg cos pic wasn't showing for me

yeah it looks it in that pic, but it is above the bottom of the exhaust as well as above the cross member. have to see how the new WG fits.. the one in the pic is SHIT.. faulty and leaks/sticks .. i can move it up higher if i want, depends on what WG i replace it with.

i'll have a look tomorrow, im at work at nights so i can check when i get home ..5am but by the look of that pic i posted before.. it looks like it connects to the white rubber hose just below the exhaust runner from Cyl 1..

they work due to the VCT oil feed on the RB25 head being welded up and run externally to the block. rb26 dont run VCT so they work with this setup.

will check it all out tomorrow. i have my S2 block at home now finally.. see if there is a related return point on the block like the RB25 .. http://img68.imageshack.us/img68/8546/untitled1ko.jpg is a pic of the RB25 return... see if something corresponds on the rb30 block.

Joel, your guide says you need to adapt another oil return line from the head when using the R33 RB25 head is this just a modification of the existing return from near the power steering pump? to return into the turbo return line rather than back into the block direct as standard on the RB25?

ahh ok, will look around, might also ask my mech if his engine builder can fabricate or locate them for me.. pretty sure he'll want to know about it, think he is building an RB30 for majanal's r33 ..

mine sits way down near the cross member, with the outlet of the wastegate about 2 inches from the exhaust pipe. not really a place thats hidden if you look under the car, but its plumbed back so not EPA illegal.

Joel, how did you source the 2nd restrictor separate to the head gasket kit? i dont wanna spend that cash on the full tomei HG kit, but wanna run the restrictors.

you can use a metal shim under te std BOV to block it off.. using the std BOV to clamp it down.. use like 0.9 body steel, drill 2 holes in it to match the std BOV shape and bolt holes.. unbolt the BOV and place shim under it and bolt back up... just make sure the piece of metal is still flat. wont affect anything if you install the new BOV.. only issue you will more likely have is stalling due to ATMO bov .. do a search for stalling .. usually covered about twice a week. also remeber to check the tension on the new BOV so it doesn't leak at idle, also that its not soo tight that it doesn't work at all.

shame you couldn't modify the front cam gear covers to match the RB30 plating on the top.. looks awesome though!

hahaha fair enough, i took your normal position and said search lol ... i know its there but i aint gonna spend the time to find it again unless i get really bored haha

haha i actually posted a link to a thread that would help you with the install of the catch can.. looks like Ash deleted it hahaha .. do a search, i found it so can you..

heya people.. anyone know the diameter of the crank at the main bearings and big ends? just to be able to check the block/crank for wear, only picked it up today .. trying to get a guage on the things needed. Joel , you mention that the RB25 water pump has a different bolt pattern. this mean its not usable? or just that the one bolt doesn't bolt up and you can leave it? as anyone played around with the teflon style paints for the interior of the blocks to assist with oil draining back to the sump?

yeah thats pretty much all you can say with installs.. are you running it the legal way or illegal?

that little lug is for when you mount the tank horrizontal like the first pic.. then the clear tube to show the oil level goes vertical instead of horrizontal. there was a thread about 3 weeks ago with a full pictorial install run through..

very nice.. is that the dipped carbon coating?

i used to get 450-500kms out of the std rb25... who knows now after the 3040 install lol havent taken notice

can be alot of work to repair a front bar, and paying someone to do that will vary depending on the damage. when this is moved to the more apporpriate location, you'll get some more help. i have fixed a few front bars, some with bits completely craked out.. can be tricky to get them to work back and remain invisible once sprayed. post a pic for us to look at, but yeah. hard to say.. if you like that front abr, fix it.. fibre glass isn't to tricky if you work in small amounts doing a little bit at a time. you can only try it out..

ARRGGHH that means i'll have to upgrade my injectors with the RB30 anyway, back on topic

nope the injectors should be fine, if your running an updated pump like a 040 or 044.. the AFM will max out and cause some reduction in tuning abilities... never look at the trust range of turbos so dunno about the TD05... but the injectors would be fine up over 300rwkw with a good pump and rising rate FPR.

check the arm on your wastegate actuator. if it has come off the wastegate will open as soon as exhaust runs through it.

im with you Roy, lifting th rear does indeed draw air INTO the engine bay, but it would flow down past the turbo and dump so would indeed work.. main examples are your interior fan vent below the windscreen, also VK group A. best way is to vent the bonnet similar to the Nur spec r34's, that design actually draws are out of the bonnet area.

Same.. glad to help out where i could. almost cruise time again i think